Allegrini 1999 Valpolicella Classico ($9.99)
Valpolicella, a pretty region in the hills above Verona in Northeastern Italy, is one of those wine places that enjoys a less than stellar reputation because it produces a lot of palatable but unexciting everyday wine. But at its best, Valpolicella is anything but boring. This $10 item is a good one, very dark ruby in color, with full black-cherry aromas and hints of spice. Fresh, tart cherry flavors and crisp acidity make it a natural at the table. US Importer: Winebow Inc., NYC; Leonardo Locascio Selections. (Nov 24, 2001)

FOOD MATCH: Excellent with a Venetian veal stew, Sguazeto de Vedel, from Fred Plotkin's fine Friuli-Venezia Giulia cookbook, "La Terra Fortunata."



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