Champagne Drappier non-vintage "Carte Blanche" Brut ($31.99)
Clear light gold, with a persistent stream of pinpoint bubbles, this fine Champagne presents an inviting aroma of milk chocolate and fresh apples. Mouth-filling and creamy, it offers fresh apple-jelly and toast flavors with crisp, pleasantly cleansing acidity. US Importer: Wine Markets International, Inc., Woodbury, N.Y. (Dec 2, 2001)

FOOD MATCH: Fashioning a light meal to complement Champagne, I came up with a simplified version of lamb quenelles (light "meatballs" of ground lamb, bread crumbs and egg) on a thick soup of celeriac, leeks and potato with a distinct dash of white pepper.



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