Gould Campbell 2000 Vintage Porto ($22.99)
Inky blackish-purple, opaque, slips down the sides of the glass in sheets rather than mere "legs," already throwing enough sediment in the bottle to make decanting advisable. Characteristic Port aromas, more restrained than forward; plummy fruit with herbal nuances. Dried plum aromas open up with swirling in the glass, along with a distinct alcoholic edge. Abundant fruit shows on the palate, plummy and ripe, full-bodied and unctuous with back notes of dark chocolate, Acidic "grip" and fiery tannins build structure but make it a bit challenging to enjoy this wine young despite its ripe and appealing fruit. (375 ml half-bottle) US Importer: Ex-Cellars Wine Agencies Inc., Solvang, Calif. (Feb 26, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Best sipped alone after dinner, but two experimental food matches prove of interest: Good-quality white Cheddar (Cabot from Vermont) coats the palate with sweet fat and dramatically smooths the wine's tannins; dark semisweet chocolate brings up the wine's plummy fruit, although it also accentuates the acidity.

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