Weinstock Cellars 1999 Clarksburg "Contour" Chenin Blanc ($11.99)
This unusual wine comes from the Clarksburg appellation, a relatively cool region in California's Central Valley and one of the few vineyard areas in the Golden State where serious Chenin Blanc is grown. And this Chenin Blanc is serious all right, dominating a blend that also contains a small portion of Chardonnay. Clear gold in color, it breathes attractive floral scents of honeysuckle. Fresh, crisp and dry or near it, the flavor offers ripe apples and a citric snap, with increasing complexity that develops over time in the glass with subtle nuances of rising bread dough, honey, spice and a whiff of wool. US Importer: (Feb 22, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Demonstrating Chenin Blanc's affinity for spicy fare, it stands up well to a non-traditional match: vegetarian Thai Panang coconut milk curry with tofu.

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