Champagne Philipponnat non-vintage "Royale Reserve" Brut ($29.99)
Very pale gold in color, with a fine, constant stream of pinpoint bubbles. Crisp apples and subtle buttered toast aromas lead into a tart and cleansing flavor, creamy yet delicate; it's toward the lighter end of the Champagne style spectrum, but elegant and balanced. The wine gains increasing complexity as it warms in the glass; more toast and a hint of cocoa appear. US Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies Inc., Solvang, Calif. (Dec 8, 2001)

FOOD MATCH: It makes an excellent pairing with a slice of medium-rare veal roast served on an airy "pancake" of chopped spinach and pureed celeriac.



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