Lamborghini 2000 "Trescone" Umbria Rosso ($12.99)
Very dark ruby, almost black, with reddish highlights against the light. Full, plummy fruit aromas against an extremely earthy background, somewhat reminiscent of eating Roquefort cheese in a barnyard. (I am not kidding about this.) Ripe and soft in flavor, juicy fruit and crisp acidity that's just sufficient for balance. An odd wine, very "rustic" in style, an easy quaff and good with food, but even for a fancier of "old world" wines like me, this level of earthiness comes close to being challenging. US Importer: Winebow Inc., NYC; a Leonardo Locascio selection. (Jan 30, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Rare steak, specifically a pan-roasted ribeye, works well, as it so often does, to show a dry red wine at its best.



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