Domaine d'Aupilhac 1997 Montpeyroux Coteaux de Languedoc ($14.99)
Very dark ruby, almost black. I tried the two-step "nosing" method and found deep cherry and blueberry scents at first, which gained intensity and added herbal notes after swirling. Full and tart in flavor, black fruit and fragrant pepper, softly but perceptibly tannic. A "rustic" but complex and interesting wine, excellent with food and worth putting away for a few years of cellar time. US Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Dec 9, 2001)

FOOD MATCH: The wine's earthy and fruity flavors make it a fine match with light lamb meatballs with a puree of potatoes, turnip and celeriac.

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