Trevor Jones Barossa Old Muscat ($36.99)
This Australian dessert wine shows a clear, dark amber color with a reddish hue. Delicious nutty, orange-peel and burnt-sugar aromas lead into an intensely sweet bitter-orange flavor brought into shape by tart, "grippy" acidity; sweet and complex, sipping a glass is almost like dipping into a box of chocolates. Seems a bit more of a traditional Australian "Tawny Port" style than a classic Muscat, but however you classify it, it's an excellent dessert wine. At $37 for a half-bottle, though, it's hardly a bargain. US Importer: The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, Calif. (Jan 10, 2003)

FOOD MATCH: Sip by itself after a meal; better as dessert rather than with dessert.



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