Il Bastardo 2001 Sangiovese Rosso di Toscana ($10.99)
Dark ruby in color, its black-cherry aroma is typical of Sangiovese, but a distinct vinegary note evokes memories of cheap pizzeria reds. There's a bit of unnecessary roughness around the edges of its grapey and rather simple fruit flavor, too. An old-fashioned country Italian quaffing red, it brings back memories of times past ... but a retail price over $10 gives new meaning to the term "Il Bastardo." US Importer: HB Wine Merchants, NYC. (Dec 14, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: Taken to a covered-dish party, it went well enough to wash down meatballs, sausages and spicy buffet fare.

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