Champagne Chartogne-Taillet Brut "Cuvee Sainte-Anne" ($24.99)
Pale gold, with a steady flow of pinpoint bubbles in the glass. Rich and full aromas, white fruit with a distinct note of cocoa, a characteristic that I often find in sparkling wines with a substantial amount of Pinot Noir in the blend. Flavors are consistent with the nose, cocoa and fresh fruit, full and intense. An exceptional Champagne, produced on 27 vineyard acres near the village of Merfy. It could compete with many larger producers' vintage cuvees. US Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.; a Terry Theise Estate Selection. (Dec 19, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: Brilliant with a light meatless dinner crafted to match fine sparkling wine: A "three-lily" risotto made with leeks, red onions and garlic, butter and Parmigiano.

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