Graham Beck Robertson Brut ($12.99)
Pale gold, with a frothy mousse that falls back fast. Fresh and fruity, clean if rather delicate scents in the "melon" sector of the aroma wheel. Dry fresh and cleansing, the flavors are subtle but deep, clean and long. The South African producer hints at a Champagne connection with the description "Methode Cap Classique" ("Classic Cape Method") on the label ... in French. US Importer: Robant LLC, Lexington, Ky. (Dec 17, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: Excellent with Marcella Hazan's Italian egg-lemon chicken fricassee.



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