Masi 1999 Ripasso Campofiorin Rosso dei Veronese ($15.99)
Immodestly subtitled with the Latin "Nectar Angelorum Hominibus" ("Nectar of the angels for men"), this is a classic Ripasso from the Veneto (made by the producer who tried to trademark the term), a Valpolicella turned brawny by spending time in casks on the lees of the previous autumn's Amarone. Dark ruby with a reddish-orange glint against the light, it shows the characteristic dried-cherry scent of Valpolicella with notes of spice. Full-bodied and textured, it's a wine you can almost "chew," with clean dried-fruit flavors built on sturdy acidity. US Importer: Remy Amerique, NYC (Oct 19, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: Good with any red meat; we served it with an oven-roasted version of Mario Batali's rib eye steak "dry-rubbed" with garlic and dried-porcini powder.

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