Pergolas Crianza 1997 Valdepeñas Old Vines Tempranillo ($6.99)
This dark-ruby wine from the Castilian region of central Spain shows reddish glints in the glass. Sweet cherries and vanilla blend in the aroma, over a faint scent oddly reminiscent of fresh butter. Tart-cherry fruit flavors are surprisingly fresh for a five-year-old wine at a modest price; aromatic oak forms a backdrop but doesn't dominate. Nothing too fancy here, but it's an appealing wine and offers a lot for a low-end price. US Importer: J & D Selections (Kysela), Winchester, Va. (Oct 28, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: A ration of crumbled Italian sausage brings an otherwise light broccoli-and-pasta up to speed with this fruity-oaky red.



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