Hiedler 2000 Novemberlese Kamptal Grüner Veltliner ($15.99)
This clear straw-colored wine shows little aroma at first, seeming simple and vinous; but time to air and warm in the glass opens it up to delicious floral-peachy scents with just a hint of Grüner Veltliner "minerals." Ripe apples and pears in a delicious, very slightly sweet flavor, with a good citric tang to keep things in proportion. US Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.; A Terry Theise Estates Selection. (Sep 18, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: Aroma-flavor complexity and crisp acidity make it a natural with mackerel baked with onions and capers.

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