E. u. M. Berger 1999 Gedersdorfer Gebling Kremstal Grüner Veltliner ($10.99)
Clear pale-golden color, with a pleasantly vegetal "green pea" aroma that opens up to complex white fruit and a whiff of butterscotch. Fresh, off-dry flavors are structured with sufficient acidity for balance. US Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.; A Terry Theise Estates Selection. (Sep 18, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: The wine's flavors make a good match with baked mackerel, a relatively assertive fish; but a bit more acidity would have been welcome.

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