Champagne Pol Roger 1990 Brut ($59.99)
Clear bright gold, with a lasting stream of exceptionally small bubbles. Bread dough and fruits, apple and lemon aromas. Full-bodied and rich, apples and subtle earthy tones with a bright acidic high note; flavors unfold and develop with time in the glass. A New Year's Eve delight. US Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd., NYC. (Dec 31, 2001)

FOOD MATCH: Champagne is too good a food match to save for midnight toasting, so we served it with New Year's Eve dinner: Excellent with alder-smoked salmon on light guacamole pancakes.

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