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Amontillado Emilio Lustau non-vintage Solera Reserva Dry Amontillado Los Arcos ($10.99)
Clear amber, with a delicious aroma of fresh cracked pecans that fills the room when a glass is poured, with subtle herbal overtones becoming more evident as the wine opens in the glass. Pecans dominate the flavor, too, in a flavor that's rich, nutlike and perhaps just slightly sweet, although this is out of character for an Amontillado; pecans and lemon-squirt acidity linger in a long finish. U.S. importer: Europvin USA, Emeryville, Calif., selected by Christopher Cannan. (Feb. 12, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Best served as an aperitif or for after-dinner sipping.

Emilio Lustau non-vintage Solera Reserva non-vintage Solera Reserva Light Fino Sherry Jarana ($10.99)
The lightest and driest of Sherries, this Fino is typical in character: Clear pale gold in color, with a fresh, full scent of walnuts and pecans. Full-bodied, rich and very dry in flavor, its nutlike flavor is consistent with the aroma; mixed nuts linger with tart, lemony acidity in a very long finish. U.S. importer: Europvin USA, Emeryville, Calif., selected by Christopher Cannan. (Feb. 13, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Fino actually makes a pleasant dinner wine with the right food companions; this one made an inspired match with a Greek avgolemono (egg, lemon and chicken) soup.

Emilio Lustau non-vintage Solera Reserva Moscatel Superior Emilin ($16.99)
This intensely sweet Sherry is a clear dark raw umber color, with raisin and perfumed burnt-sugar aromas that open up into exotic aromatics, bay leaf and menthol and eucalyptus; a very sweet flavor of raisins and stone fruit is laced up with tangy acidity. An unusual but delicious dessert sherry. U.S. importer: Europvin USA, Emeryville, Calif., selected by Christopher Cannan. (Jan. 29, 2000)

FOOD MATCH: Fine with cracked nuts as a dessert drink.

Clock The Amontillado was featured in The 30 Second Wine Advisor, my free weekly E-mail bulletin of quick wine tips, advice and tasting notes. Click here to join the E-mail list!

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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