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Wine Tasting Reports |
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Boston Wine Expo: Dinner at Angelo's in Stoneham
A smallish but companiable group assembled to inaugurate the festivities: Thor and Theresa Regli Iverson, Jim and Judy Barr, David Cohen, Kevin Engleman (charter-member WLDGer and first-time offliner), Robert Jones, Theresa's co-worker Anthony Wilson and his wife Dolly and her mother, and your humble scribe. The fare was respectable Boston Italian-American, the usual offerings from this trattoria-in-a-pizzeria; the fellowship and wine-geek talk was all you would expect from a Boston offline, and the wines ... ah, the wines. At Theresa's request, David brought a trio of Canadian wines that were drinkable and of educational interest; and the dozen other wines on the table - heavy on the artisanal Italians and not a single New World item among 'em - were exceptional even by the lofty standard of WLDG offlines. No wacky Internet jokes here, just the tasting notes, terse and concise as you would expect from a PocketPC that survived an ice-water dousing in a brief incident early in the meal: Pasil 2000 "Pie Franco" Rueda (Spain) Superior - Watery pale. Citric, snappy, intense. Trimbach 1998 Alsace Pinot Blanc - Pale brass. Good body and acid, citric and tart. Domini Veneti 1997 Valpolicella Classico Superiore La Cassetta di Ettore Righetti - A huge burst of jammy fruit and spice. Amazing. Develops bretty barnyard aromas, not unpleasant, after an hour in the glass. Prunotto 1993 Pian Romualdo Barbera d'Alba - Full black cherries, round and balanced. Mature but very much alive. Vigorello 1997 Toscana - Ripe black cherry and spicy oak. Juicy and full with a distinct mint flavor. Paolo Bea 1998 Montefalco Rosso Riserva - A bit closed on the nose but explosive on the palate; ripe and juicy black fruit, soft tannins; delicious. Malivoire 1999 Ontario Old vines Foch - Inky dark. Thick, simple, leathery. Typical hybrid. Domaine Paul Autard 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape - Plummy, peppery, accessible.
Pietro Berutti 1982 La Spinona Barbaresco Bricco Facet - Fully mature, soft and complex. May not hold much longer, but beautiful tonight. Monchiero 1990 Barolo Riserva Montanello - Black fruit, licorice, and a nutty hint of oxidation. Very nice. Rinaldi Vini 2000 "Bug Juice" Moscato d'Asti - Fizzy, sweet and tart. Peach nectar but lightweight, low alcohol at 6%. This seemed odd, coming around after all the Italian reds, but it made a surprising and pleasant break in the routine as a zippy, frothy palate cleanses. Delicious quaff. Il Casate 1995 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico - Cherries and hay, herbaceous fruit, medium-sweet. Very pleasant, brings out comparisons to a light Port or, maybe better, Banyuls. Southbrook non-vintage Canadian Framboise d'Or - Beautiful, intense fresh raspberry aroma, so delicious that I could sit and sniff it all evening. Good berry fruit flavor, very sweet, but a bit soft and fat. More of an acidic backbone and structure would have elevated it from "tasty" to "wow!" The Cavit Collection Cantina di Tablino 1985 Vino Santo Trentino - Clear dark mahogany color. Amazing wine, layered and complex. Now, this is the one! Figs and dates and hazelnuts and almonds and spicy preserved lemons, a remarkable dessert wine, inspires serious if a bit boozy comparisons with weighty names like d'Yquem - did I mention that it's amazing? Wine of the night. Maybe wine of the year.
Boston Wine Expo reports:
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