30 Second Wine Advisor

Radical reds

2010-03-19T16:33:44Z

Today's Sponsor

The Saratoga Wine Exchange
The Saratoga Wine Exchange is your source for fine wines online, offering more than 15,000 wines to choose from.
The Saratoga Wine Exchange

]]> I'll no more buy a wine on the basis of its label than bet on a horse in the Kentucky Derby based on the color of the jockey's silks. Cute animals, funny cartoons, landscapes and fine art on the label tell us nothing about the wine inside the bottle.

But let's be honest: In a competitive marketplace where even a medium-size wine shop may offer a selection of 500 to 1,000 wines or more, an eye-catching wine label, like a voice raised in a quiet room, can grab your attention and increase the chances that you'll take a closer look.

Today let's take a look at a couple of offbeat labels that wrap around good, affordable wine from one of my favorite wine makers, Patrick Campbell of Sonoma County's Laurel Glen. Patrick, who describes himself as "a true child of the '60s" (I can relate to that), came to wine making from studies in English Literature at Pomona College and Philosophy of Religion at Harvard. "I have a degree in neither viticulture nor enology," he says on the Laurel Glen Website. "In short, I have the proper credentials for winemaking."

Indeed. He's an ex-hippie, philosopher, musician, child of the '60s, who lived in a Zen Buddhist commune before buying his winery. Campbell's Website goes on, "Making limited production (and hence, relatively expensive) wine had its charms; but Campbell, whose lifetime fascination with Che Guevara reveals a stubborn egalitarian streak, yearned to produce a more populist wine."

One outcome of that wish, REDS, described as "A wine for the people" and priced to sell under $10, is a hearty red blend of Zinfandel, Carignan and Petite Sirah grapes, made in recent years from "pioneer vineyards in the heartland of California" in the Lodi region, a cooler, more favored subclimate of the state's agricultural Central Valley south of Sacramento. For years, Campbell stoppered REDS with corks bearing tongue-in-cheek images of left-wing heroes like Lenin, Trotsky and Marx (Not just Karl but Groucho, too). Now it comes with a politics-free Stelvin metal screwcap.

Another memorable red wine with a decidedly political label is a Laurel Glen import from Chile, "Chévere," adorned with a red and black label featuring an image of Che that once adorned the walls of many a '60s hippie's pad. This is no mere '60s nostalgia, though: A 5 percent share of the purchase price on sales of Chévere is to be donated to the Lambi Fund, a non-profit organization that works toward economic justice, democracy and alternative sustainable development in Haiti, where it is currently deeply involved in earthquake recovery.

Chévere 2007 Valle Central Chile Cabernet Sauvignon ($11.99)

This dark garnet wine's European accent hints at the historic kinship between Chile's producers and the Bordeaux vignerons who fled the phylloxera vine plague to settle there. Currant and cranberry aromas add a hint of fresh green herbs on the nose. Full-bodied red fruit flavors are well balanced by tart acidity and substantial tannins. It's a wine made for red meat, although grilled or roast chicken or cheese wouldn't do it any harm. U.S. importer: Laurel Glen Vineyard, Santa Rosa, Calif. (Feb. 18, 2010)

FOOD MATCH: Classic Cabernet match with a pan-seared, oven-finished locavore rib eye steak.

VALUE: Fine value for a hearty Cabernet at this relatively low price point; the charitable contribution adds to its value appeal.

WEB LINK: Information about the wine and how to order it (where the law permits), on the Laurel Glen Website. You can also click through to the order page and find other ways to support Lambi on The Lambi Fund Website.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Compare prices and find vendors for Chévere on Wine-Searcher.com. It's also available from Saratoga Wine Exchange for $11.44.

Laurel Glen "REDS" 2007 Lodi Red Wine ($9.99)

An old-style California red blend of 60 percent Zinfandel (from 40- to 80-year-old vines), 30 percent Carignane (from 118-year-old vines) and 10 percent Petite Sirah (from 20-year-old vines), REDS is a very dark purple color in the glass. The aromas blend earth and fruit in a style that blends California the Old World. On the palate it's a real mouthful of wine, whacking the palate with flavors that evoke red cherries and raspberries and maybe a dash of kirsh cherry liqueur, leaving a tangy lemon-squirt of acidity and a soft tannic astringency. (Feb. 20, 2010)

FOOD MATCH: It was perfect with a ragù of locavore beef shanks from Barr Farm in Rhodelia, Ky., over fresh pappardelle pasta. It would go with just about any red meat or anything you'd serve in an Italian-American restaurant with red-checked tablecloths.

VALUE: Great value at a penny under ten bucks; the winery's suggested retail is a dollar less.

WEB LINK: Read about Reds, and order it online where the law permits, on the Laurel Glen Website.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Compare prices and find vendors for 2007 Laurel Glen REDS on Wine-Searcher.com.

Today's Sponsor

The Saratoga Wine Exchange is your source for fine wines online

The Saratoga Wine Exchange is your source for fine wines online, offering more than 15,000 wines to choose from. Spend less time searching the Web for hard-to-find wines. Sign up for our email list to get special offers and discounts only available through our email list.

Looking for the Chévere wine featured today? Saratoga lists it for $11.44.

Browse our selection of wines that have been recently rated by clicking "Professional Ratings."

Our goal at the Saratoga Wine Exchange is to provide our customers with the best selection of wines at competitive prices. As wine lovers ourselves we understand how difficult it can be to find all the wines you love in one spot. We work hard every day to find additional sources for fine wines. We look forward to helping you find the wines you love.

Talk About Wine Online

If you have questions, comments or ideas to share about today's article or wine in general, you're always welcome to drop by our online WineLovers Discussion Group, the Internet's first and still the most civil online community. To find our forums, click:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village

Discussions are open for public viewing, but you must register to post. Registration is free and easy; we ask only that you join following our Real Names Real Format system, using your real name in the format "John Doe" or "John D". Anonymous, cryptic or first-name-only registrations are discarded without notice.

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Change address:
With our new Email system, the easiest way to change your Email address is simply to register anew, using the link below. If you are keeping your old address, you may unsubscribe; if you are closing it, you needn't take any action, as our system will delete your old address as soon as the mail starts to "bounce."

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Wine Focus: The Loire

2010-03-12T18:53:06Z

Today's Sponsor

$1 Shipping Sale at The California Wine Club
Put money in your pocket and great wine on your table with this month’s $1 Shipping Spring Wine Sale at The California Wine Club/
The California Wine Club

]]> Does your taste in desserts tend more toward the subtle and complex (panna cotta, say, or creme brulee, bread pudding or maybe shortbread) or toward the decadent and over-the-top (death-by-chocolate challenges or a banana split)?

If subtlety's your game, then your preferences in wine may similarly veer away from warm-climate blockbusters in favor of crisp, minerally wines like those from Europe's cooler river valleys including the Mosel, the Danube and the Loire.

We're focusing on the entire Loire region of France for Wine Focus in our WineLovers Discussion Group this month: White or red, dry, molleux or sweet, from Sancerre all the way downstream to Muscadet.

To get things started, today's featured tasting offers a quick look at a modest but food-friendly Muscadet. Muscadet is made from the Melon grape ("Meh-lawN" with a nasal French "n" at the end, not "melon" as in cantaloupe) grown in the granite soils of Muscadet, where the Loire runs into the North Atlantic in Brittany below the city of Nantes.

Made "sur lie," kept on the "lees" or sedimented yeast left over after fermentation until bottling, good Muscadet gains earthy, yeasty and stony flavors from this process and from the soil, mingled with tart lemon-zest and green-apple flavors from the cool-weather grape. It's a natural with the region's fresh oysters, and a good pick with all manner of seafood and fish.

Bring on your Loire notes, travel stories and questions: Click here to read and take part in the discussion on "Wines of the Loire."

The discussions are open for public viewing, but you must register to post. Registration is free and easy; we ask only that you join following our Real Names Real Format system, using your real name in the format "John Doe" or "John D".

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine and food forums.

Today's Sponsor

$1 Shipping Sale at The California Wine Club!

Save up to 70 percent this month at www.cawineclub.com.

Put money in your pocket and great wine on your table with this month’s $1 Shipping Spring Wine Sale at The California Wine Club! Visit www.cawineclub.com or call 1-800-777-4443 to order.

Choose from:

* Award-winning wines as low as $9.99

* Syrah Super Savers at up to 60% off

* Limited production international selections from Italy, Spain, Australia and France

* 90+ rated Cabernets, Pinot Noirs, Zinfandels and more!

Half, full and mixed cases are okay. Every case ships for just $1. Stock up now.
Visit www.cawineclub.com or call 1-800-777-4443, we love talking wine and will be happy to help you choose your selections.

Today's Tasting Report

Domaine Guindon 2007 "Saint Géréon" Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire Sur Lie ($11.99)

Pale straw. White fruit, rising bread dough. Clean and crisp, bright acidity blends with tart lemon and green apple aromas and flavors with a hint of stony minerality on the palate. Good, simple Muscadet, fine at the table. U.S. importer: Vintner Select, Mason, Ohio, and other regional importers. (Jan. 15, 2010)

FOOD MATCH: Oysters on the half-shell make the classic pairing for Muscadet, but its crisp, tart and minerally character goes well with just about any seafood or fish. It was excellent with pan-seared halibut with a simple variation on Spanish Romesco sauce.

VALUE: I can't locate a producer Website, but the U.S. importer links to an essay about Guindon Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire online.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Compare prices and find vendors for Domaine Guindon Muscadet on Wine-Searcher.com. Wine-Searcher yields mostly British vendors, but the wine is available in the U.S. Check with quality wine merchants, or if you're stumped, the importer, Vintner Select, may be able to point you toward retail vendors in your region.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Quake shakes Chile's wineries

2010-03-05T16:15:50Z

Today's Sponsor

$1 Shipping Sale at The California Wine Club
Put money in your pocket and great wine on your table with this month’s $1 Shipping Spring Wine Sale at The California Wine Club.
The California Wine Club

]]> If there is any one blessing in a natural disaster the scope of the recent 8.8-magnitude earthquake just off the coast of Chile, it's that a remarkably small number of people - fewer than 1,000, it is hoped - died in the mammoth temblor, particularly when compared with the giant but smaller (7.0) quake that had devastated Haiti in January, where the toll was an estimated 230,000.

By all accounts, Chile was spared a greater toll by a concentrated effort to build and enforce strong earthquake-resistant building codes since the 9.5-magnitude Valdivia 'quake there in 1960, which at the time was rated as the greatest earthquake ever recorded.

With gratitude that lives were spared, Chile nevertheless faces a massive economic impact from the 'quake. Its wine industry alone, a major player in the national economy - it ranks 10th in the world in overall production - may be heavily hit.

Chile's telecommunications were so heavily hit, AP said, that days after the event, investors in the vineyards "that carpet the hardest-hit areas couldn't reach winery employees by phone or Internet to discuss the upcoming harvest."

"You have to get grapes from the vineyards to the winery, and I don't know the condition of the roads around the winery," reported Mark Osmun, spokesman for California's Jackson Family Wines, which owns Vina Calina winery in the devastated Talca region about 65 miles from the epicenter."

AP continued, "the quake has already forced tens of thousands into unemployment with no end in sight in the nation's south-southwest area ... It also translates into higher wine production costs for an industry already hurt by the declining value of the U.S. dollar."

Vina Concha y Toro, one of Chile's largest wine producers and exporters, sent this analysis of the quake's impact to wine writers this week. I thought you might find it interesting:

"As it has been communicated through the international press, in the early hours of February 27th, Chile suffered an earthquake with a magnitude of 8.8 on the Richter scale that impacted most of the country followed by a tsunami that hit our Pacific coast. The central area of Chile is the most affected in terms of the damage caused. ...

"The area with the largest impact is the heartland of wine production. Our company, as well as the rest of the industry, have been heavily impacted by this catastrophe.

"With the information to which we have access at this moment, there are fortunately no personal tragedies amongst our employees and their families. However we have already been able to assess serious damage to some of our main wineries which are located in the worst affected areas. This includes important loss in wine and production capacity. A more detailed assessment of the exact magnitude of these damages is currently being completed.

"Faced with this event of force majeure, Vina Concha y Toro has had to temporarily suspend all of its logistic and production operations for at least one week. All our efforts are dedicated with regard to assessing the scope of this unprecedented event and resuming normal operations as soon as possible.

"We are sincerely grateful to all our customers and friends for their messages of solidarity and concern. We trust to have your understanding for the challenges that this event will cause in terms of future operations and we are certain that with your support and with the human capacity and strength of Concha y Toro we will overcome these difficult circumstances."

In a salute to Chile's beleaguered wine industry, we sampled a Concha y Toro Carmenere with dinner, raising a glass in the direction of not merely the vineyards but all the suffering Chilean people. My tasting notes are below.

Today's Sponsor

$1 Shipping Sale at The California Wine Club!

Save up to 70 percent this month at www.cawineclub.com.

Put money in your pocket and great wine on your table with this month’s $1 Shipping Spring Wine Sale at The California Wine Club! Visit www.cawineclub.com or call 1-800-777-4443 to order.

Choose from:

* Award-winning wines as low as $9.99

* Syrah Super Savers at up to 60% off

* Limited production international selections from Italy, Spain, Australia and France

* 90+ rated Cabernets, Pinot Noirs, Zinfandels and more!

Today's Tasting Report

Concha y Toro 2008 "Casillero del Diablo" Rapel Valley Carmenere Reserve ($9.99)

Inky dark purple, shades to clear garnet at the edge. Oak shows itself as a hint of strong black coffee on the nose, but it's nicely kept in proportion by a dance of mixed berry fruit. Cherry-berry flavors are more apparent on the palate, well structured with mouth-watering acidity and lots of dry tannins showing as astringency on the palate in the long berrylike finish. Its 13.5% alcohol level seems rational for a hefty red in this age of rising alcohol content. U.S. importer: Excelsior Wine & Spirits (Banfi Vintners), Old Brookville, N.Y. (Dec. 14, 2009 and March 4, 2010)

FOOD MATCH: Good on one occasion with chicken pot pie, on another with local Barr Farm natural beef burgers with a touch of Southwestern spice.

VALUE: Hard to beat for 10 bucks, although my local price is actually at the high end of its range in the U.S., where you'll find it in many markets for $7 or $8.

WEB LINK: Here's a link to the winery's Website. It's published in English and Spanish; choose "Enter" for the English pages.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Compare prices and find vendors for Casillero del Diablo Carmenere on Wine-Searcher.com.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Bubbles and fire

2010-02-26T15:29:23Z

Today's Sponsor

The Saratoga Wine Exchange
The Saratoga Wine Exchange is your source for fine wines online, offering more than 15,000 wines to choose from, including over 50 Proseccos.
The Saratoga Wine Exchange

]]> You've just swallowed a delicious bite of a fiery vindaloo, or maybe a five-pepper Thai curry, Jamaican jerk chicken, or something spicy from Sichuan. Your cheeks are red, drops of sweat are breaking out on your brow, and your mouth tingles with a tasty fire.

Now, what to drink?

Actually, if you're seeking to extinguish the fire, dairy works best. Indian yogurt lassi, Thai iced tea and Vietnamese coffee with a dollop of condensed milk all probably evolved to meet this need. But who wants a glass of Grade A when there's wine or beer to be had?

Beer, indeed, is a viable option, with its relatively low alcohol to allow for quaffing in quenching gulps, and its bubbly carbonation to scrub one's taste buds clean.

Wine poses a problem, at least in my culinary universe, because its relatively high alcohol levels make it less than prudent to gulp it in quantity. Worse, you're literally pouring alcohol on a burn, and that hurts.

In my experience, if wine's your choice, look for relatively low-alcohol items, ideally with a bit of residual sweetness (many Rieslings and some Chenin Blancs fill this bill); or crisp, bubbly carbonation that offers some of the same "palate-scrubbing" effect as a beer.

I've had surprisingly good results with Lambrusco, the much-maligned "pop" wine from Emilia-Romagna, because it's fizzy, somewhat sweet and very low in alcohol. But for those whose memories of "Chill a Cella" are still too vivid, Italy's Prosecco is an obvious alternative. Sparkly, dry or nearly so and not overly alcoholic, it's usually my first choice if I'm going to have wine with something on the hot-and-spicy side.

With prices for bubbly ranging from $5 for very bad industrial stuff to hundreds of dollars (or Euros) for the finest Champagnes, Prosecco hits the sweet spot in value for everyday drinking, typically falling in the $10 to $20 range. Spanish "Cava" is another affordable option, but Prosecco wins the quality-price ratio race for me.

Today's tasting, Caposaldo non-vintage Prosecco Vino Spumante Aromatico di Qualità Brut, is a good, straightforward Prosecco at a fair price in the lower teens. It made a fine companion with a quick, home-built curry of leftover free-range roasting hen, lots of onions, an Indian Madras curry powder and dried red-pepper flakes to taste.

Today's Sponsor

The Saratoga Wine Exchange is your source for fine wines online

Over 50 Proseccos to choose from online every day at The Saratoga Wine Exchange. Click here to see our current selection of Prosecco.

The Saratoga Wine Exchange is your source for fine wines online, offering more than 15,000 wines to choose from. Spend less time searching the web for hard-to-find wines. Sign up for our email list to get special offers and discounts only available through our email list.

Browse our selection of wines rated 90 Points Under $20.

Today's Tasting Report

Caposaldo non-vintage Prosecco V.S.A.Q. Brut ($13.99)

Pale, transparent straw color, pours up with a frothy mousse that falls back fast, but bubbles continue to float gently through the clear wine. A whiff of apples and pears and just a hint of rising bread dough on the nose. Crisp and tingly on the palate, prickly carbonation, with a tart taste of ripe apple in the finish. Labeled "V.S.A.Q." for "Vino Spumante Aromatico di Qualità," or "aromatic sparkling wine of quality." U.S. importer: Kobrand Corp., NYC. (Feb. 22, 2010)

FOOD MATCH: Prosecco will suit just about any food pairing that would work with a crisp white wine, from seafood to poultry to pork; it's fine for sipping alone, and, as discussed in today's column, it does relatively well with fiery fare. We enjoyed it with a moderately spicy chicken curry.

VALUE: Fairly priced in the lower teens.

WEB LINK: Browse the U.S. importer's Caposaldo pages beginning with this short tasting note on the Prosecco.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Compare prices and find vendors for the Caposaldo Prosecco on Wine-Searcher.com.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

The anti-flavor wine elite

2010-02-19T16:01:05Z

Today's Sponsor

The California Wine Club
Tired of wasting money on bad wine? The California Wine Club can help. Use Promo Code: ADVISOR and receive your first month for just $13.
The California Wine Club

]]> Most of us probably have more practical ways to waste our time than following the political side of the world of wine on the Internet; but the latest digital tempest in a teapot, er, wine glass, is worth watching.

The Web-based wine uproar focuses on the powerful American wine critic Robert M. Parker Jr., who recently began uttering wine-related "tweets" on the Twitter service. He stirred up a storm when he wrote, "lots of top wine merchants are heavily discounting once very expensive Aussie Shirazs (sic) ... out of fashion among the anti-flavor wine elites."

Whoa! Wine elites? This bore an eerie resemblance to a vinous Teabagger. It was red meat for a lot of people, ranging from lovers of Australian Shiraz and don't think it's at all out of fashion, to those who aren't great fans of the "blockbuster" style of wine made by some - definitely not all - Australian producers.

Full of oak and loaded with simple, almost sweet fruit flavors, these so-called "fruit bomb" wines from Australia and elsewhere have long been Parker favorites. For those who prefer a more subtle, complex and restrained wine style, this was interesting stuff, even if it stung a bit to have our tastes dissed as "anti-flavor" and "elite." Some online wine geeks have actually begun labeling themselves with the tongue-in-cheek acronym, "AFWE." I like that ...

So, love the Big Name Wine Critic or disdain him, we've now got a surprisingly firm opinion to sink our teeth into. Without accepting the charge of either "anti-flavor" or "elite," I'm sticking with my preference for the more subtle and interesting "Old World" style of wine.

I'd actually like to ask Parker whether his tastes in cinema run closer to The Seventh Seal or Avatar, but that would be mean. Let's learn by example instead.

Today's tasting report features a tasty, affordable and food-friendly Old World wine from France, made to the order of importer Kermit Lynch, a charter member of the AFWE. Kermit's 2008 Côtes du Rhône is fruity for sure, and comes in at a hefty 14% alcohol - it's happening everywhere. But its neat balance of varietal fruit, acidity and tannins takes it well out of "fruit-bomb" territory and onto the table of the AFWE. I like it.

Robin Garr in social media

If you're into this social media stuff and have any interest in keeping up with my ramblings on food, wine and other things, you'll find me at these locations:

* The WineLovers Discussion Group, online since 1995, was there at the dawn of social media on the Internet, the first wine discussion forum on the Web. We're still going strong, and welcome you. The forums are open for public viewing, but you must register to post. Registration is free and easy; we ask only that you join following our Real Names Real Format system, using your real name in the format "John Doe" or "John D". We'll check your registration and, if it complies with this rule, will activate your membership promptly. Click http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village to reach the forums.

* I've only dipped a toe in the waters of Twitter, at this point using it only to "tweet" each week's 30 Second Wine Advisor. If you want to follow, you'll find my wine-related account at "Robin_Garr", with an underscore. I've also got seldom-used accounts at "LouHotBytes" for my Louisville restaurant reviews and commentary, and "Robin Garr" (with a space) which I might use for personal off-topic commentary. Someday. Maybe.

* I've been a little more active on Facebook, posting my wine and restaurant columns along with more personal microblogging. Feel free to "friend" me here (please mention that you're a Wine Advisor reader so I'll get the connection), but if you do, please understand that my posts often feature wine and food and what I'm eating and drinking, but also cross over to a variety of subjects among several different communities of readers, personal friends and other connections.

See you online!

Today's Sponsor

The California Wine Club

If you are tired of wasting money on bad wine, The California Wine Club can help. The California Wine Club guarantees every wine featured and does what other wine clubs do not:

* Guarantees that every wine comes from a smaller, real-working winery
Visits each winery, gets to know the family and shares their stories with you

* Tastes thousands of wines before choosing the best

* Promises that every wine you receive is one you will pour with confidence

Experience The California Wine Club for yourself! Each month includes two bottles of award-winning wine and our detailed 12-page publication, Uncorked. Just $35.95 per month and you may choose to receive wines monthly, every other month or quarterly.

Visit www.cawineclub.com to become a member now, or call 1-800-777-4443. Use Promo Code: ADVISOR and receive your first month for just $13. No obligation and no commitment to stay, so if you're not happy - you're not stuck!

The California Wine Club takes the guesswork out of picking wine and delivers the best wine, every time!

Today's Tasting Report

Kermit Lynch 2008 Côtes du Rhône ($12.99)

Very dark purple, shading to garnet and then clear at the edge. Red-berry fruit and black pepper, makes me guess Grenache and Syrah, though I have not looked up the specs. A real mouth full of red wine, dry and tart berry fruit with tannins present but somewhat tamed by the fruit and acidity. A sturdy, rustic Côtes du Rhône that seems as if it would suffer no harm from a couple more years in the bottle. Fine now, though, with rare red beef. Made by Terres d'Avignon - Vignerons Réunis for Kermit Lynch's label. U.S. importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (Feb. 5, 2010)

FOOD MATCH: A wine that wants red meat, it was just fine with a locavore rib eye steak from Kentucky's Dreamcatcher Farm, pepper-crusted, pan-seared and oven-finished.

VALUE: Hard to beat for value in the lower teens. This local price matches the importer's suggested retail.

WEB LINK: Here's a discussion on the Kermit Lynch Website about his Rhône blends including the 2008 red Côtes du Rhône.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Compare prices and find vendors for the Kermit Lynch Côtes du Rhône on Wine-Searcher.com.

Click here for information about buying wine direct from Kermit Lynch where the law permits.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Double your pleasure with Ripasso

2010-02-12T20:28:24Z

Today's Sponsor

The Saratoga Wine Exchange
The Saratoga Wine Exchange is your source for fine wines online, offering more than 15,000 wines to choose from, including a large selection of Ripasso wines.
The Saratoga Wine Exchange

]]> I'm a great fan of the red wines of Valpolicella, a pretty, hilly region not far north of Verona toward the Italian lake country, but I won't try to tell you that the everyday Valpolicella red ranks in the top tier of "serious" wines.

Not that there's any shame in that: Wine would be a pretty serious business if we had to drink "great" wines every day, although I might be able to try it for a while.

But seriously now, folks: Made predominantly if not entirely from the local Corvina grape, Valpolicella doesn't generally profess to be anything more than an everyday table wine, and there's no shame in that. Like Beaujolais and Cotes-du-Rhone in France and dozens of light, simple and refreshing Italian wines, there's a place in life for a refershing quaffing wine that goes well with food and even for sipping without it.

Indeed, so many of Valpolicell's best Corvina grapes go into the full-bodied and strong Amarone and the "Ripasso" that we'll be talking about today, that local wits call the regular Valpolicella "twice-skimmed milk" because the fruit left to make it has been well picked over.

Ripasso sounds like and means "re-passed" because of its unusual double-your-pleasure wine-making process: In the spring, after fermenting over the winter in the usual way, select batches of regular Valpolicella are transferred into casks holding the grapeskins that were left over after its bigger brother Amarone was made.

This process of "re-passing" the lighter wine over the bigger wine's "squeezings" adds body, color and flavor, and kicks off a secondary fermentation that boosts its alcoholic content. The result? A fruity, complex and bigger-bodied red that goes very well with red meat, game or sharp cheeses.

If you're shopping for Valpolicella, take extra care to check the label. If the word "Ripasso" is there, you've got your hands on something completely different from the everyday wine.

Today's Ripasso (see my tasting report below) is one of this month's selections from California Wine Club's International Selections. It comes from Guerrieri Rizzardi, one of the Veneto's most historic wine makers, whose roots go back to 1678. Its Pojega vineyard is in the village of Negrar, near the celebrated gardens created by Conte Antonio Rizzardi in 1796.

It's a perfect fit for this month's Wine Focus in the WineLovers Discussion Group, which takes on the topic Diverse Italy, covering all the regions of Italy outside the widely discussed and often tasted regions Tuscany and Piemonte.

We invite you to bring your tasting reports, comments and questions about your favorite less-known Italian wines and wine regions, from Valle d'Aosta in the north to Sicily in the south. The discussions are open for public viewing, but you must register to post. Registration is free and easy; we ask only that you join following our Real Names Real Format system, using your real name in the format "John Doe" or "John D".

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

Today's Sponsor

The Saratoga Wine Exchange is your source for fine wines online

Find a large selection of Ripasso wines available by following this link: Ripasso

Browse our selection of wines that have been recently rated by clicking "Professional Ratings."

Today's Tasting Report

Guerrieri Rizzardi 2006 "Pojega" Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso ($32)

Dark reddish-purple with a clear garnet edge. Very distinct dried-cherry flavor, typical of Valpolicella, with a pleasant touch of "sappy" herbal notes and subtle brown spice. Mouth-filling and ripe, good acidity adds a mouth-watering snap to bright dried-cherry fruit. There's warmth in the finish, but it carries its 14% alcohol well, and goes very well with rare beef. (U.S. importer: Enotec Imports Inc., Denver, for California Wine Club's International Selections. (Jan. 19, 2010)

FOOD MATCH: It was great with barr Farms Kentucky grass-fed beef rib eye, pepper-crusted, pan-seared with garlic and oven-finished. Try it also with lamb, game or meatless dishes featuring Cheddar-type cheeses.

VALUE: A quality Ripasso is not an inexpensive wine. The double-fermentation process requires extra time and effort in the winery, and the result is rarely available in large amounts. That said, the $32 restock price from California Wine Club's International Selections is certainly fair for a red wine of this quality.

WEB LINK: Click here for an extensive fact sheet on Guerrieri Rizzardi's Ripasso "Pojega."

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Guerrieri Rizzardi 2006 Ripasso "Pojega" is this month's selection from California Wine Club's International Selections, the primary U.S. vendor for Guerrieri Rizzardi. Click for more information.

Click here to find international vendors for Guerrieri Rizzardi's wines on Wine-Searcher.com, and click here to query Wine-Searcher.com for Ripasso wines in general.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Benchmark Rioja Crianza

2010-02-05T17:07:14Z

Today's Sponsor

The Aged Cabernet Series
As recommended by Town & Country magazine: "Rarities, which generally can't be obtained any other way, acquaint recipients of The Aged Cabernet Series with the subtler charms of older wine."
The Aged Cabernet Series

]]> Catching up a little belatedly with our WineLovers Discussion Group's Wine Focus for January on the Spanish red wines of Rioja, let's take a look at the Spanish wine term "Crianza." For today's example we examine the moderately priced, benchmark-style Rioja Crianza from the large but respected producer Sierra Cantabria.

"Crianza," (pronounced "Cree-ahn-zah,") comes from the Spanish word for "nursing" or "bringing up." Its definition is a bit fuzzy, as the specifics change among different Spanish wine regions. But it's safe to say that "Crianza" on the label guarantees that the wine has been aged ("brought up") for a legally defined time before it can be sold; and that a significant part of that aging occurred in oak casks.

Throughout Spain, Crianzas in general may not be released until at least two years after the vintage, of which at least six months must have been spent in 225-liter oak casks ("barricas" in Spanish, a relative of the more familiar "barriques" in French). In Rioja and Ribera del Duero, the rule is 12 full months in oak, plus at least 12 more in bottles.

This may seem like a long time in barrels, but in Spain, where oak aging is traditional, Crianzas are actually in the least-oaked category - you'll need to look for "Riserva" or "Gran Riserva" if you want still more.

The Crianza process can result in a rather "woody," oak dominated wine if you drink it young, but today's Sierra Cantabria, five years after the vintage and approaching three since release, is beginning to integrate its flavors. It's still fiercely astringent with oak tannins, though, a characteristic that can be ameliorated with rare red meat or time in the cellar.

Still, it's a good introduction to Rioja - and to Crianza - at a price that's quite fair.

Wine Focus for February has moved on to the topic Diverse Italy, covering all the regions of Italy outside the widely discussed and often tasted regions Tuscany and Piemonte.

In other words, we invite you this month to bring your tasting reports, comments and questions about your favorite less-known Italian wines and wine regions, from Valle d'Aosta in the north to Sicily in the south.

We've moved Wine Focus from a separate forum section into our main WineLovers Discussion Group. You'll find "Diverse Italy" at this link:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29990
The discussions are open for public viewing, but you must register to post. Registration is free and easy; we ask only that you join following our Real Names Real Format system, using your real name in the format "John Doe" or "John D".

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

Today's Sponsor

As recommended by Town & Country magazine, discover The Aged Cabernet Series!

On the heels of a Robb Report recommendation for The California Wine Club's new The Aged Cabernet Series, the February issue of Town & Country Magazine says, "Rarities, which generally can't be obtained any other way, acquaint recipients of The Aged Cabernet Series with the subtler charms of older wine."

If you are not among the lucky few with a cellar stocked with aged Cabernets from Napa's most prestigious wineries, then check out The Aged Cabernet Series from The California Wine Club.

Each month The Aged Cabernet Series features two finely aged Cabernets (10-15 years old) from top producers like Mayacamas, Joseph Phelps, Clos du Val, Chappellet and Burgess.

Every wine featured has been meticulously stored in a temperature-controlled facility and is 100% quality guaranteed. Memberships are limited and you may choose to receive shipments monthly, every other month or quarterly. Deliveries also include a detailed newsletter offering a history on the wine, including tasting notes from its original release ... and now.

Two-bottle deliveries average $150-$235 and are shipped via 3-day air. Treat yourself or someone special to this rare wine experience.

Visit www.theagedcabernetseries.com or call the club at 1-800-777-4443 to learn more.

Today's Tasting Report

Sierra Cantabria 2005 Rioja Crianza ($18.99)

Inky dark purple with a clear garnet edge. Typical fresh red cherry scent of Tempranillo, the primary Rioja grape, blends with aromatic vanilla from oak barrels, adding just a hint of something like fresh green herbs. Mouth-filling, good dry tart-cherry fruit, acidic and tannic with a marked astringency on the tongue that smooths out when it meets the flavors of lamb and pimenton. Good young Rioja, could stand a few years in the cellar to gain complexity and balance but fine now with appropriate food on the table. U.S. importer: Cutting Edge Selections Inc., Fairfax, Ohio. (Jan. 25, 2010)

FOOD MATCH: Splendid with locavore lamb burgers with a quick variation on Spanish Romesco sauce, pureed roasted red peppers, onions and cream.

VALUE: Demand has sent the prices of artisanal Rioja skyrocketing. Although a larger producer, Sierra Cantabria boasts a long record of quality and characteristic Rioja style and maintains a fair price on this Crianza. I overpaid a bit in Louisville; Wine-Searcher.com shows an average price of $15 on the 2005. (As a commentary on wine-price inflation, it's worth noting that the 1996 vintage of this wine, reported in January 2000, cost $9.99.)

WEB LINK: The wineries website of the Eguren family, producers of Sierra Cantabria, is colorful and high-tech, but a bit quirky to navigate, especially with slower 'net connections. This link should take you directly to the Sierra Cantabria page.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Locate vendors and compare prices for Sierra Cantabria Crianza on Wine-Searcher.com.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Wine lovers step up for Haiti

2010-01-15T21:33:40Z

Today's Sponsor

]]> Long-term readers will recall that members of the WineLovers Discussion Group, our online wine community, stepped up spontaneously to help in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina and the Southeast Asian tsunami.

With horrifying images of death and destruction following the earthquake in Haiti this week, we're doing it again. Let's step back from the pleasant world of wine appreciation briefly today as I present our forum's simple, unofficial project to encourage help for Haiti from the world of wine enthusiasts.

Please note that we are not functioning as an intermediary. We do do not want donations sent to us for processing but urge you to support the international charity of your choice with a generous contribution.

Then, if you wish, visit the WineLovers Discussion Group forum and read the topic "WLDG Haitian Relief Fundraiser: Raffle of Bordeaux, etc" to learn how we're using fine wine as an added incentive to do what you were already likely to do: help out in Haiti through a contribution to the legitimate international charity-relief organization of your choice.

In brief, participation will be limited to 100 entrants. Begin by making a donation of at least $30 to a charity doing work directly in Haiti. Then read the forum fund-raiser discussion for details on reporting your contribution, which enters you in a raffle for various wines contributed by forum members. (You are also welcome to contribute wines for the raffle, although we're not a non-profit organization and can't offer a tax deduction.)

Contributors need not provide personal information other than your name and proof of your contribution. If you win a wine prize (numbers will be chosen by an intriguing random technique described in the forum discussion), it will be up to you and the donor of that wine to make arrangements for its delivery.

Here's a list of worthy organizations we know to be mustering relief efforts in Haiti. Feel free to choose other appropriate recipients if you prefer, as long as the organization is currently, actively involved in Haitian relief.

* Doctors Without Borders/Medecins sans frontières
* American Red Cross
* CARE
* Partners in Health
* Catholic Relief Services
* American Jewish World Service
* Episcopal Relief & Development

As the organizer of this initiative put it, "This is just a way to spur all of us with good intentions to do what we know we should do. Let's have a little fun and help those in tremendous need. May the best man or woman win the best wine!"

ABOUT THE WINELOVERS DISCUSSION GROUPS

Click here for the WineLovers Discussion Group forums, the Internet's first and still the most civil online community.

Discussions are open for public viewing, but you must register to post. Registration is free and easy, but you MUST register isomg our Real Names Real Format system, using your real name in the format "John Doe" or "John D". Anonymous, cryptic or first-name-only registrations are discarded without notice.

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

Today's Sponsor

As recommended by Town & Country magazine, discover The Aged Cabernet Series!

If you are not among the lucky few with a cellar stocked with aged Cabernets from Napa's most prestigious wineries, then check out The Aged Cabernet Series from The California Wine Club.

Each month The Aged Cabernet Series features two finely aged Cabernets (10-15 years old) from top producers like Mayacamas, Joseph Phelps, Clos du Val, Chappellet and Burgess.

Two-bottle deliveries average $150-$235 and are shipped via 3-day air. Treat yourself or someone special to this rare wine experience.

Visit www.theagedcabernetseries.com or call the club at 1-800-777-4443 to learn more.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

A toast to Cremant

2009-12-30T21:50:41Z

Today's Sponsor

The California Wine Club: Forget Someone?
Send New Year's Cheer with a gift from The California Wine Club! Call 1-800-777-4443 or visit www.cawineclub.com to download a beautiful Gift Card or send a fun E-Postcard.
The California Wine Club

]]> Looking for something to uncork on New Year's Eve that's as elegant as Champagne, but you don't want to pay Champagne prices? Consider a Cremant ("Creh-MAHN," with a French nasal N at the end if you want to go for it).

Cremant, a personal favorite style that I've reported on occasion, looks like Champagne, with its wire cage and cork that comes out with a pop. It's frothy and bubbly in the glass, a French-made sparkling wine that's prickly, crisp and dry.

Cremant, literally translated as "creaming," was used for years to signify a gentler, less-bubbly style of Champagne. But since international treaties and European Union regulations have more strictly limited the use of "Champagne" and "methode champenoise" to wines made only in the Champagne region, "Cremant" has been reinvented as the label name for sparkling wines made by the traditional Champagne process in other parts of France.

Cremant was established by the 1970s as formal category for sparklers from Burgundy, Alsace and the Loire. More have followed, such as today's Cremant de Limoux, which comes from the hills of Southwestern France not far from the medieval walled town Carcassone.

The wine makers of Limoux claim that they've been making sparkling wine since the 1500s, long before those upstarts from Champagne popped their first cork. I'm happy to let them fight it out, but I see no room for debate over the proposition that today's featured wine, Gérard Bertrand Cremant de Limoux Brut Rosé, is a splendid bargain for New Year's Eve or any other time. You'll find my report below.

Today's Sponsor

Forget Someone? Send New Year's Cheer with a gift from The California Wine Club!

A gift of award-winning wine is always appreciated. For last-minute holiday gifts, call The California Wine Club at 1-800-777-4443 or visit www.cawineclub.com to download a beautiful Gift Card or send a fun E-Postcard.

Since 1990 The California Wine Club has been spreading holiday cheer with gifts that can't be found in local stores.

Each month features two bottles of award-winning wine, hand selected from one of California's best "mom & pop" wineries. Wine club deliveries also include Uncorked, an entertaining and informative 12 page, full color newsletter that gives members an up-close and personal look at the winemaking families. Uncorked also includes wine country news, wine tips, recipes and much more. Each month is like a trip to wine country, from the comfort of home!

Send as many months as you wish, just $34.95 plus s/h. Save on gifts of 3, 6, 9 and 12 months. Call 1-800-777-4443 or visit Need a gift out fast? No problem! www.cawineclub.com.

Today's Tasting Report

Gérard Bertrand 2005 Cremant de Limoux Brut Rosé ($18.99)

The combination of 70% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir in the blend are traditional for Champagne-style wines; the 10% Chenin Blanc, not so much, but the combination is fetching. The Pinot imparts a light peach color, with a frothy mousse that falls back fast. As a Cremant, not a full-power sparkler, its bubbles float rather than streaming. Good scents of apples, rising bread dough and a whiff of cocoa in a very pleasant aroma. Carbonation contributes to a creamy-fizzy mouthfeel, fresh and very tart, with white fruit and just a faint hint of sweetness in the finish. U.S. importer: USA Wine West LLC, Sausalito, Calif. (Dec. 19, 2009)

FOOD MATCH: Its frothy delicacy makes it a winner for sipping or New Year's Eve tasting, and it goes with a wide variety of flavors. It was amiable with just about everything on a holiday hors d'oeuvres buffet, and the leftovers made a great match with a South Indian fish-coconut milk curry the following evening.

VALUE: It's not "the real thing," true Champagne, but neither is its price, which is more than fair for a tasty bubbly elegant enough for a special occasion ... or New Year's Eve.

WEB LINK: The winery Website is available in French, Spanish and charmingly accented English. Click the round flag icons near the lower-left main page for the language of your choice.
Click here for a high-tech if somewhat bizarre presentation about Gerard Bertrand in English, a technology that makes the Website look like a book with turning pages.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Locate vendors and compare prices for Gérard Bertrand Cremant de Limoux on Wine-Searcher.com.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

PX on IC

2009-12-23T17:10:30Z

Today's Sponsors

Introducing Le Cellier Modular Wine Rack
Le Cellier Modular Wine Racks are as elegant as they are practical. Regularly $24.95 - just $19.95 - 20% off with coupon code WLP20 - same day shipping.
Le Cellier Modular Wine Rack

]]>

First, as Christmas draws near, highlighting the winter holidays that bring joy to people of many Earthly heritages, allow me to wish Wine Advisor readers a holiday season of happiness, peace and joy, a blessing that transcends creed and heritage to incorporate us all.

Now, turning back to wine, let's focus today on a thick, "sticky" dessert wine from Spain that's well suited to warm a winter's night.

Pedro Ximenez, an old-line white grape, is widely grown around Spain, almost always as a source for sweet wines. It makes the sweetest and stickiest of Sherries, although in modern times it's largely been supplanted in Jerez (Sherry) by the sturdier, less disease-prone Palomino.

But it's still available, and when you're looking for a dessert wine that's sweet as sweet can be, it's a good choice.

Some consider it a particularly appropriate wine for Christmas, too, observing that the common abbreviation, "PX," resembles the Greek letters Chi (which looks like an "X" but is sounded as "CH") and Rho (which looks like a "P" but stands for "R") ... in other words, the Chi-Ro of ancient Christianity, "CHR," an abbreviation and symbol of Christ.

There's no evidence that Pedro Ximenez was named with this in mind, and there's not likely much truth in the old story that the grape was brought to Spain from the Rhine, of all places, by a traveler named Peter Siemens, whose name the Spaniards rendered as, well, Pedro Ximenez. I'd place its etymology in category "unknown," and welcome information from anyone who has a better, verifiable story. Catch me by Email at wine@wineloverspage.com.

As for the wine, the Pedro Ximenez featured below, which comes from the old-line Sherry producer Osborne, is a dessert-wine bargain at $15 to $20, and bears a strong flavor resemblance to sweet black raisins. It's fine for sipping after dinner in small tastes, but a little experimenting has revealed an unexpected truth: Pour a healthy drop atop a scoop of fine quality vanilla ice cream, and dig into the best grown-up sundae you could imagine. I wouldn't mess it up with whipped cream or a cherry on top, but I won't blame you if you decide to try that.

Today's Sponsor

Introducing Le Cellier Modular Wine Rack: 20% off with coupon code WLP20

Introducing Le Cellier Modular Wine Rack: Regularly $24.95 - just $19.95 - 20% off with coupon code WLP20 - same day shipping

Le Cellier Wine Racks are as elegant as they are practical. Sturdy enough to hold twelve bottles of your finest in one rack. Or stack them to make a wall of racks. Ideal for your wine cellar, living room or anywhere in your home. And it costs less than a good bottle of wine!

So, if you appreciate fine wine, you'll love Le Cellier wine rack. Assembles in a minute or less (no tools necessary) Made of durable ABS plastic Available in black, red, and light or dark brown. Self-supporting or has slots for brackets to attach to wall but these are not necessary. Modular, stackable elements, yet beautiful as a single rack.

Free $18.95 e-book copy of The Complete Idiots Guide to Wine with every wine rack. Patent pending. Made in the USA. Retailers and wineries inquire about wholesale discounts. Order from www.wineracksinternational.com.

Today's Tasting Report

Osborne Premium Sherry Pedro Ximenez "1827" ($22.99)
This clear burnt-umber color wine offers a scent remarkably reminiscent of juicy black raisins on the nose and palate. It seems all raisins and sweetness on the first sip, but a tart, lemon-squirt of acidity quickly appears to balance the intense sweetness and keep the wine from cloying. Raisins and acidity and a hint of dark caramel linger in a very long finish. Fruit and sugar tend to mask its strength, so be aware that there's a hefty 17% alcohol in this fortified wine. (The "1827" on the label is not a vintage date, by the way. It could be the date of origin of the "solera" or ongoing blend of vintages used to make the non-vintage wine, but I can't confirm that from the limited information on the winery Website.) U.S. importer: Underdog Wine Merchants Inc., Livermore, Calif. (Dec. 22, 2009)

FOOD MATCH: Fine sipping after dinner, and it makes a remarkable flavor pairing when you pour a little over a bowl of vanilla ice cream. We are not kidding about this. Judiciously used, it also makes an intriguing condiment. A shot of it in homemade cream of roasted pumpkin soup popped the dish into a third dimension.

VALUE: The $20ish price is fair, and a bottle, dispensed in short tastes, will last a long time. Shop around, though, especially if your state has joined the 21st century in terms of shipping wine to individuals, as some vendors list it as low as $15 or so.

WEB LINK: The winery Website appears to be in Spanish only, and at this season it begins with a longish Flash Christmas movie with music. It's nice to watch. Once.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Locate vendors and compare prices for Osborne Pedro Ximenez wines on Wine-Searcher.com.

Today's Sponsor

Forget Someone? Send New Year's Cheer with a gift from The California Wine Club!

Since 1990 The California Wine Club has been spreading holiday cheer with gifts that can't be found in local stores.

Send as many months as you wish, just $34.95 plus s/h. Save on gifts of 3, 6, 9 and 12 months. Call 1-800-777-4443 or visit Need a gift out fast? No problem! www.cawineclub.com.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Let's get the wine on the road!

2009-12-18T15:54:58Z

Today's Sponsor

The California Wine Club: There is Still Time!
Need a gift out fast? No problem! The California Wine Club offers one, two, and three day delivery service.
The California Wine Club

]]> Over the river and through the woods, to Grandmother's house we go ...

You're headed home for the holidays, and you'd like to take along a bottle or two of fine wine. Does this plan make sense? Will that delicate Burgundy you've been keeping in the cellar survive the trip? Will you run into trouble at the airport?

Like a lot of other things in daily life, the answers to some of these questions have changed profoundly during the past decade, with new and frequently changing air-security regulations following 9/11.

As a fairly frequent business traveler, I've often packed wine to share with friends in distant cities. However, the wine that I used to casually carry on board in my hand baggage now must survive the risks of checked-in luggage. How about that corkscrew? Don't even ask.

Still, if you want to take home wine for the holidays, or on that winter beach vacation, it can be done. Here are a few tips based on current rules as I understand them.

PACKING IT: New rules banning all but tiny amounts of liquids rule out bringing wine in the passenger cabin. If you want to pack wine, it must go in your checked baggage. The risk of breakage or pilferage can't be ruled out, but in fairness, I've checked wine on dozens of domestic and international trips without incident ... so far. Still, I'd advise not shipping any wine of value so great that you would mourn its loss. Pack the bottles securely, well wrapped; I strongly suggest using plastic bags in the slight hope of keeping any possible leakage away from your dress shirts and underwear.

AIRLINE SECURITY: Before the ban on liquids in the cabin, inspectors frequently asked to hand-inspect bags containing bottles, but this is now a non-issue. If you put wine in your carry-on, you'll be leaving it in the confiscation bin or carrying it back out to check-in - or to your car - before you can fly. Wine in sealed bottles in checked luggage has never posed a problem for me. Sometimes my bag gets selected for inspection, but this seems to be random, not wine-related.

Now, about that corkscrew: Transportation Security Administration rules theoretically permit some small corkscrews provided that they have no knife attachment. But in my experience, TSA policy doesn't always reach inspectors at the gates. I pack my corkscrew in my checked luggage, and leave home any with sentimental or financial value.

For a bit more insight into corkscrews on board, by the way, TSA offers this surprisingly light-hearted and fun blog post about corkscrews, knitting needles and nail clippers. I still wouldn't to get into a fight with an over-zealous inspector over my pricey, rosewood-handled French Laguiole corkscrew , but it's a good read for the reluctant traveler:

CUSTOMS: Crossing an international boundary? Be sure to declare your wine! In my experience, particularly bringing wine back to the U.S. from other countries, Customs will routinely wave you through without bothering with the paperwork required for minimal duties. But get caught trying to fool Mr. Customs Officer, and you may really wish you hadn't thought smuggling would be a good idea.

AUTO AND GROUND TRAVEL: If you're driving on vacation (or taking the train or bus), treat your wine as you do airline luggage: Pack it with care. Wrap each bottle separately in paper and plastic, pack towels or clothing between them, and avoid shaking them up any more than necessary.

TRAVEL SHOCK: Fine wines - older reds in particular - may not show their best soon after the rigors of shipment. It makes sense to save your oldest and finest wines to enjoy on a special occasion at home.

BE PREPARED: You probably won't carry that corkscrew on board in your pocket, but do tuck one into your checked luggage. It would be a shame to pull out that prized bottle for the holiday dinner ... and discover your host doesn't have the tools to pull the cork!

I wouldn't hesitate to tuck this week's featured wine (details below) into my roller bag. A great value at $9.99, its lusty, rustic red-wine character would go great with Christmas prime rib or even turkey dark meat. And its sturdy metal screwap eliminates the corkscrew issue entirely.

Today's Sponsor

The California Wine Club: There is Still Time!

Need a gift out fast? No problem! The California Wine Club offers one, two, and three day delivery service. Call 1-800-777-4443 or visit www.cawineclub.com to order.

For 20 years, The California Wine Club has featured award-winning wines from California's small "mom & pop" wineries. These handcrafted wines are made in such limited supply, they can't be found in local stores. A gift from The California Wine Club is a true wine adventure and an experience just not found anywhere else.

Gifts start at $34.95, plus shipping. Call us today and let us help you with your gift giving needs. 1-800-777- 4443 or visit www.cawineclub.com.

For the best in quality and service, trust The California Wine Club. They guarantee 100% satisfaction for you and each of your gift recipients.

Today's Tasting Report

Sacred Stone California Master's Red Blend Cask #004 ($9.99)

A blend of Merlot, Sangiovese, Zinfandel and Dolcetto grapes, this is a dark purple wine with appealing cherry-berry and oaky smoke aromas. Big and ripe flavors, juicy and tart, blend fruit and oak in a mouth-filling texture with marked tannins and a slight touch of oxidation that becomes more noticeable after two or three days in the opened bottle. Still, it's quite an impressive bottle of rustic, old-style California red for a good price. (Dec. 6, 2009)

FOOD MATCH: As noted, I wouldn't turn it down with holiday banquet fare, particularly roast beef. We enjoyed it with a more prosaic cheese pizza, and it was even better a couple of days later with natural, grass-fed short ribs.

WEB LINK: The winery offers a Sacred Stone fact sheet at this link.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Find vendors and compare prices for Sacred Stone wines on Wine-Searcher.com.

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Organic, but what variety?

2009-12-11T14:58:45Z

Today's Sponsors

National magazines recommend The California Wine Club!
The California Wine Club has been recommended by respected national magazines!
The California Wine Club

Discover the heart and soul of Rioja
Join the Vibrant Rioja Community for a chance to win a case of wine or a trip to Rioja, Spain.
Vibrant Rioja

]]> As I've observed before, I respect organic wines, mostly, because the effort required in growing grapes and making wine under increasingly strict organic regulations signals a commitment to quality on the winemaker's part.

However, "organic" on the label doesn't necessarily make the sale for me, as I'm not convinced that you can taste the organic difference in your glass, and most of the artisanal producers I admire, organic or otherwise, generally tend to farm grapes and squeeze the fruit with considerable respect.

That said, I won't turn down a well-made organic wine (or "wine made from organically farmed grapes" - for the details, check my update on recent U.S. regulatory changes in the July 24, 2009 Wine Advisor).

Today's featured wine, however, goes a step further: Weingut H.u.M. Hofer, a smallish producer in Austria's Weinviertel ("Wine Quarter") just north of metro Vienna, features its organic status ("Bio-Weingut") atop the front label, but requires a close inspection of the back label to reveal the grape variety, Austria's signature Grüner Veltliner.

Hofer, a Certified Organic wine estate, belongs to a group called Bio-Ernte which holds its members to organic standards higher the European Union guidelines for organic labeling.

Grüner or organic? Which to promote? It seems that Hofer's priorities are clear. The wine, in any case, speaks for itself: It's a good-quality "GV," fresh and crisp, with the "stony" minerality and white-pepper nuances that characterize the grape.

Today's Tasting Report

Bio-Weingut H.u.M. Hofer 2007 Weinviertel DAC Grüner Veltliner ($16.99)

Clear straw color. Fresh pears and apples, a bit on the fruity side for a GV, but that signature stony minerality is present in the finish. Dry and tart, just a touch of prickly carbonation on the tongue. Tart white fruit, "stony" minerality and a quick grind of white pepper in a long finish. Sealed with a sturdy metal screwcap to banish cork "taint" and preserve freshness. U.S. importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y., A Terry Theise Estate Selection. (Dec. 6, 2009)

FOOD MATCH: Like most GV, this makes a versatile match with a range of fare. It went well with cheese and veggie pizzas on the first night; pan-seared, oven-roasted natural pork chops with sage a few nights later. With more than half the bottle remaining, under screwcap and refrigerated, it showed no perceptible deterioration over a four-day period.

WEB LINK: Here is the importer's Introduction to the Hofer winery, including links to this and other Hofer wines. Here's a link to the winery Website (in German only)

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Look for vendors and compare prices for Hofer's Grüner Veltliners on Wine-Searcher.com.

Today's Sponsors

National magazines recommend The California Wine Club!

The California Wine Club has been recommended by these national magazines: Redbook, Food & Wine, Bon Appetit, Pink, Robb Report, Inc. and Parade!

People everywhere are cheering about The California Wine Club! Club owners Bruce and Pam Boring travel throughout California in search of small family-owned wineries handcrafting award-winning wines made in such limited supply they can't be found in local stores.

This process of hand-selecting the very best wines for their members is what has caught the attention of magazines nationwide.

Each month features a new winery and a new adventure! Gifts start at $34.95 plus shipping and you may send as many months as you wish. Every wine featured comes from a real-working winery and backed by the club's 100% guarantee. Monthly deliveries also include the club's 12 page, full color newsletter, Uncorked!

Save with discounts on 3, 6, 9 and 12 months.

Send a fun and unique gift this holiday season and give a gift that will make people cheer. Visit www.cawineclub.com or call 1-800-777-4443.

Discover the heart and soul of one of the world's greatest wine regions - Rioja

How would you like to discover the land of a thousand wines? How about uncovering the heart and soul of one of the world's greatest wine regions? Vibrant Rioja is giving you the chance to win the experience of a lifetime - a trip to Rioja, Spain, and all you have to do is join the Vibrant Rioja Community. Oh! and you'll receive our newsletters, which will keep you informed of our tastings, events, delicious recipes, tasting notes and much, much more! Just click here to get started: Vibrant Rioja!

And if you're in the wine trade, you can join the Vibrant Rioja Trade Community! You will also have the chance to win a trip to Rioja as well as receive invitations to seminars and tastings, Rioja images and POS, newsletters that are aimed at helping you build your business, merchandising materials and much more! Just click here to get started.

In the meantime, visit VibrantRioja.com and learn more about Rioja, its grapes, climate, terroir, architecture culture, gastronomy and more! Remember, the trip of a lifetime is only a click away! Salud! Vibrant Rioja!

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

The universal turkey wine

2009-11-20T20:32:30Z

Today's Sponsors

A Message from The California Wine Club
In this age of high-tech, mass-production and big business we are proud to be the same "mom & pop" company we started 20 years ago.
The California Wine Club

Discover the heart and soul of Rioja
Join the Vibrant Rioja Community for a chance to win a case of wine or a trip to Rioja, Spain.
Vibrant Rioja

]]> Remember the old science joke about the "universal solvent"? An eager student rushes into the professor's office, jumping up and down with excitement. "I've invented a universal solvent," the student exulted. "It will dissolve anything!"

"Really," mused the prof. "So what do you intend to keep it in?"

Happily, today's Thanksgiving quest - the search for a universal wine to accompany all the meats, poultry and other goodies that load the holiday table - may be a difficult challenge, but it lacks the fatal flaw of the universal solvent. It can be done.

As I've observed before, roast turkey is the most traditional meat for Thanksgiving dinner (and often Christmas and secular winter celebrations too). But it's certainly not the only possibility. In our family, we've chosen duck, goose, guinea hen and even moved away from poultry in favor of standing rib of roast beef. Or perhaps a pizza.

Wine enthusiasts have little difficulty picking a wine to go with any of those main courses specifically, even turkey, although that big bird poses a special challenge because it's built with both light meat and rich, dark meat, contrasting flavors and textures that may not go equally well with the same wine.

When you consider the appetizing side dishes that load the holiday table - mashed potatoes and dressing, cranberry sauce, green-bean casserole and even candied sweet potatoes - the idea of finding a "universal wine" looms almost as pardon-the-expression insoluble a challenge as that universal solvent.

One easy out involves forgetting the whole idea of a perfect food-wine match and simply pulling a special wine off your wine rack or out of your cellar and enjoying it in the spirit of Thanksgiving, sipping between courses and frankly deciding not to worry about a precise pairing.

If you're having a festive meal for a crowd, it's also fun to open both red and white wines, giving your guests the option to choose one or the other or a little of both, as their taste buds dictate.

But what specific wine? I've often invoked what I call the "cranberry sauce rule," looking for a wine with a flavor profile similar to that of the traditional condiment for turkey: Cranberry sauce is fruity, tart, with only a touch of sweetness at the most; you'll find no scent of oak, nor tannic astringency in your cranberries, whether you choose them whole or jellied.

Quite a few wines have this flavor profile, not least the Nouveau Beaujolais, the first French wine of the new vintage, which was released into the marketplace last week and is widely available at wine shops for $10 or so. It's a good wine, not a great wine, but it will work well on your holiday table.

Other wine-grape varieties that fit the cranberry-sauce rule are Riesling, Gewurztraminer or Chenin Blanc if you're in the mood for a white wine; if you want a red, the aforementioned Beaujolais or the American Zinfandel - the real red Zin, please! A sparkling wine affords a completely different approach, washing down the holiday fare and inspiring a festive table with the happy pop and fizz that attends its opening.

Saving the best for last, however, the king of holiday wine in my hierarchy is Pinot Noir, the grape that the comic movie Sideways made famous. Smooth, complex and balanced, with flavors of red fruit and earth and a texture that makes you think of velvet, an excellent Pinot Noir - choose among France's Burgundy region, California's cooler valleys or Oregon at your leisure - is a star in its own right and should go with just about anything on your table.

For my tasting report on a California Pinot Noir favorite with a distinctly French name and a mid-Atlantic mix of Old World and New World flavors, see below.

Today's Sponsor

A Message from The California Wine Club

In this age of high-tech, mass-production and big business we are proud to be the same "mom & pop" company we started 20 years ago.

We personally select every wine and share the winemaking family's story with you. Our dedicated staff answers your calls, processes, packs and ships your orders…all from our office here in breezy Camarillo, California.

We don't outsource, we don't sell bulk wines and we don't take our customers for granted! Your business (and referrals) is greatly appreciated.

Wishing a safe and happy holiday season to you!

Cheers, Bruce and Pam Boring, Proprietors, The California Wine Club

A gift from The California Wine Club is a unique way to say "Happy Holidays." Order now and your gifts will arrive right in time for the holiday season!

Visit www.cawineclub.com to send a gift or call 1-800-777-4443.

Today's Tasting Report

Au Bon Climat 2008 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($19.99)

Very dark ruby with a clear edge. Black cherry and subtle spice aromas with a distinct hint of "barnyard," earthy and not unpleasant. Fresh tart-cherry fruit and snappy acidity come together in a mouth-filling, food-friendly flavor, with a fresh acidic tang and soft tannins in the finish. (Oct. 3, 2009)

FOOD MATCH: As a well-balanced example of a "universal" food wine, this appealing Pinot will go with just about any choice of meat or poultry, not to mention a variety of cheeses and dark, flavorful fish from salmon - perhaps its No. 1 partner - to tuna, mackerel or bluefish. It would even make a fair pick at the sushi bar!

WEB LINK: The Au Bon Climat Website includes information about the wine, the winery and wine maker Jim Clendenen, plus a winery wine club and online store allowing shipping at winery prices where the law permits.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Look for vendors and compare prices for the Pinot Noirs of Au Bon Climat on Wine-Searcher.com.

Today's Sponsor

Discover the heart and soul of one of the world's greatest wine regions - Rioja

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Rule-breaking blend

2009-11-16T20:11:41Z

Today's Sponsor

Give Confidently With The California Wine Club!
This holiday season send a gift that will be enjoyed and remembered! Give The California Wine Club!
The California Wine Club

]]> Some people love Chardonnay, while others remain card-carrying members of the "Anything But Chardonnay" Club. Among those who shun Chardonnay, many favor Sauvignon Blanc; on the other hand, scratch a Chardonnay-lover and chances are you'll find a taster whose attitude toward Sauvignon Blanc is a not-so-gentle "Meh."

What's your pleasure? Rich, full-bodied Chardonnay with its range of flavors from tart green apples to luscious tropical fruit? Or leaner, meaner Sauvignon Blanc with its flavor spectrum reaching from citrus on the sunny side to herbal, "grassy" aromatics in the shade?

Or perhaps you're a fence-sitter who doesn't take sides in this combat? You'll enjoy this, then. Here's an odd, affordable alternative: A Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc blend from a Southwestern French winery that glories in its historic preference for disobeying the rules.

Famille Grassa, a producer in the Bas-Armagnac region of France's Gascony (imagined home of Dumas's fourth Musketeer, D'Artagnan), defies the conventional wisdom by growing - and blending - an assortment of white varieties not normally scene or grown in Gascony. And if today's tasting report on their 50% Chardonnay and 50% Sauvignon Blanc serves as evidence, they do it very well.

Here's what the Grassa family has to say about their philosophy on an English-language page of the winery Website, in an essay charmingly titled, "In Praise of Disobedience ... Breaking the rules."

" ... The fact that Tariquet wines and Bas-Armagnacs brandies have been acclaimed with the best of their class is due largely to the boldness of one man. Yves Grassa, now an internationally renowned winemaker from Gascony, began 25 years ago by breaking the rules of traditional winemaking, proposing white wines that were consistently characterised by a fresh finesse and fruity elegance.

"He was the first in the region to dare to plant Chardonnay, Sauvignon or Chenin grapes, which were far from popular in those days. Worse still, he conjured up combinations of sworn enemies such as Chardonnay with Sauvignon or Chenin with Chardonnay. The Tariquet brand was born of contemplation, rebellion and reason, followed by continuous observation and improvement. ... Defying his detractors, Yves Grassa took on the challenge of producing white wine and was duly rewarded for his work by being selected as Winemaker of The Year in 1987."

Crisp and refreshing, the "Côté" Chardonnay-Sauvignon is a fine value in the $10 to $12 range, but not a wine for keeping. With its slick-sleeve synthetic label, the producer recommends storing it upright, not on its side, and drinking it up within a year or two after the vintage. Here's my tasting report:

Tariquet 2007 "Côté" Gascogne 50% Chardonnay - 50% Sauvignon ($12.99)

Transparent straw color. Apples and a hint of grapefruit and "sappy" herbal notes combine in the nose, pleasant enough if not really strongly recognizable as either Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. Mouth-filling and tart, green-apple and grapefruit, just a hint of fresh-fruit sweetness and the faintest touch of spritz, with a light 11.5% alcohol to make it a pleasant aperitif or dinner wine. U.S. importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C. (Oct. 23, 2009)

FOOD MATCH: An attractive aperitif, as the label suggests, and certainly passable with fresh fish, chicken or - my choice - a fresh, natural locavore pork chop braised with onions.

WEB LINK: Famille Grassa, the producer, has its Website in French, English, German, Spanish and Italian. Click the tiny flag icon for the language you prefer.

Click here for a fact sheet on the C Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blend.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Look for vendors and compare prices for Tariquet "Côté" on Wine-Searcher.com.

Today's Sponsor

Give Confidently With The California Wine Club!

This holiday season send a gift that will be enjoyed and remembered! Give The California Wine Club!

We are confident your gift recipients will be delighted because The California Wine Club does what other wine clubs do not:

* Guarantees that every wine comes from a smaller, real-working winery
* Visits each winery, gets to know the family and shares their stories with you
* Tastes thousands of wines before choosing the best
* Promises that every wine you receive is one you will pour with confidence

Give a holiday gift to cheer about! Each month includes two bottles of award-winning wine and detailed 12-page publication, Uncorked. Just $34.95 per month and you may choose to send as many months as you wish. Schedule deliveries to arrive monthly, every other month or quarterly. Visit www.cawineclub.com to send a gift or call 1-800-777-4443.

The California Wine Club takes the guesswork out of picking the right gift and delivers the best wine, every time!

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com

Brother, can you spare a DIAM?

2009-11-06T23:08:06Z

Today's Sponsor

Why Wait? Order now from The California Wine Club!
Order now and The California Wine Club won't bill or ship your holiday gifts until December!
The California Wine Club

]]> We've been talking about artificial replacements for natural cork - synthetic plugs, screw caps and even old-fashioned glass apothecary stoppers - ever since the alternative market started to boom during the 1990s.

Despite a serious defensive response by the cork industry, wine lovers have begun to view the once-maligned metal screwcap, in particular, as an appealing alternative to natural cork, which bears at least a slight risk of "tainting" wine in the bottle thanks to a cork fungus that can impart a musty, chlorinated scent that spoils the beverage.

While barriers remain - most significantly, controlling the precise rate of oxygen exchange into the bottle at a rate that matches the ideal median for natural cork, allowing maximum aging for cellarworthy wines - synthetics and other alternatives continue to gain market share.

Now joining the horse race, er, cork race, is a relatively new, reportedly strongly effective option, made out of, well, cork.

The DIAM closure, made by France-based, international OENEO Bouchage, looks a lot like a cork. In fact, it looks suspiciously like an agglomerated cork, an early substitute technology that spectacularly failed when it proved to be much more prone to taint than the original.

But DIAM is different. Without going into extensive detail (which, however, may be found at DIAM's Website, http://www.diam-cork.com/proof/), DIAM's process involves boiling the natural cork, then grinding it into a "flour" of tiny granules, washing them in a specialized form of carbon dioxide, then reassembling the granules with patented synthetic "microspheres" into cork-shaped stoppers.

OENEO declares these "technical corks" to be taint-free, and the British supermarket giant Tesco, the UK's largest wine retailer and a strong advocate for eliminating cork taint from wines, is apparently persuaded, having accepted DIAM as one of its three acceptable wine stoppers. (The others are screwcaps and high-quality natural cork.)

DIAM looks a lot like a cork, albeit a cork with an attractively variegated surface that looks a bit like corky marble. It acts like a cork, OENO's scientists say. But it doesn't smell much like a cork. Thanks to the cleaning process, the resulting stopper is clean and virtually odorless.

Great stuff? Sounds like. But how can we find wines that use it? Ah, there's the rub. Few wine producers advertise their closure, even when they've expended the effort to come up with a taint-free version. Among all the corks I've pulled over the years, I knowingly encountered my first DIAM just the other day, plugged into a 2006 Pietra Santa Cienega Valley (California) Sangiovese from The California Wine Club. No taint here! But no notice on the bottle, either.

Want to find a DIAM? Trying the Pietra Santa wouldn't be a bad idea, as it's an excellent wine (notes below). DIAM also posts a list of some of its international winery clients on its Website at this link:
http://www.diam-cork.com/proof/client-list/.

Happy hunting!

Today's Sponsor

Why Wait? Order now from The California Wine Club!

Why wait? Order now and The California Wine Club won't bill or ship your holiday gifts until December!

Since 1990 The California Wine Club has been spreading holiday cheer with gifts that can't be found in local stores.

Each month features two bottles of award-winning wine, hand selected from one of California's best "mom & pop" wineries. Wine club deliveries also include Uncorked, an entertaining and informative 12 page, full color newsletter that offers an up close and personal look at the winemaking families. Uncorked also includes wine country news, wine tips, recipes and much more. Each month is like a trip to wine country, from the comfort of home!

Send as many months as you wish, just $34.95 per month. Save on gifts of 3, 6, 9 and 12 months. Call 1-800-777-4443 or visit www.cawineclub.com to order now and receive no billing and no shipping until December!

Today's Tasting Report

Pietra Santa 2006 Cienega Valley Sangiovese ($18)

Sealed with a taint-free DIAM cork, it's clear and very dark blackish-purple, shiny as patent leather in the glass. Delicious aromas of mixed red and black cherries with a distinct whiff of fennel and a lighter touch of warm spice. Flavors are consistent with the nose, ripe but not overstated cherry-berry fruit, mouth-watering acidity and soft but perceptible tannins; it carries its substantial 14.7% alcohol with style. Wine maker says the fermented wine was kept on the grapeskins for 20 days to pick up maximum color and intensity; then the wine aged 24 months in French oak. A splash (8%) of Cabernet Sauvignon was blended in just before bottling to enhance the wine's aging potential. (Oct. 24, 2009)

FOOD MATCH: Needs an appropriate food match of beef, bison or venison to smooth its youthful astringency at this point - We enjoyed it with a Dreamcatcher Farm Kentucky natural grass-fed rib eye, pepper-crusted, pan-seared with garlic and oven-finished medium-rare - but it shows considerable promise for five to 10 years in a good cellar.

WEB LINK: Pietra Santa ("Sacred Stone") Winery is located at Hollister, Calif., where Alessio Carli is the wine maker. Here's a link to the winery Website.
http://www.pietrasantawinery.com

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for the wines of Pietra Santa on Wine-Searcher.com:
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Pietra%2bSanta%2bSangiovese/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP

Pietra Santa 2006 Cienega Valley Sangiovese is appropriately priced at $18 at the winery, but it's a no-brainer at $10.99 for half- or full-case reorders by California Wine Club members. For details on this particular wine, click
http://www.cawineclub.com/Pietra-Santa-Vineyards-%26-Winery-2006-Cienega-Valley-Sangiovese_PD735.html

Talk About Wine Online

Once your registration has been approved, which usually happens quickly, you'll be able to participate in all our online wine, food and travel forums.

To contact me by E-mail, write wine@wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time and volume permit.

Subscriptions and Administrivia

Unsubscribe:
We're sorry if you must leave us, but simply click the "unsubscribe"
link at the bottom of your Email edition to be instantly removed from the mailing list.

Subscribe to this Email edition (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor

WineLoversPage.com RSS Feed (free):
http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss

Wine Advisor Archives:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor2/archives.php

Sponsorship Opportunities:
For information, E-mail wine@wineloverspage.com