Potato fish cakes

INGREDIENTS: (Serves two as a main dish or four as an appetizer)

1/2 of a large onion
1 egg yolk
8 ounces (240g) leftover white fish, such as halibut or cod
2 medium potatoes, about 3/4 to 1 pound (roughly 1/3 to 1/2 kilo)
1 tablespoon (15g) flour
Salt
Black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil

PROCEDURE:

1. Grate the onion, using the side of a box-type grater with the larger round holes. Separate the egg, discarding the white (or save it for another use if you're thrifty). Gently flake the fish. (I think mild white fish works best here, but you could probably use any kind of fish, or crab. Salmon might be interesting, resulting in something vaguely akin to your mother's salmon croquettes.)

2. Peel the potatoes and grate them into shreds, using the same grater holes. Wrap them in a large cloth napkin or dish towel and squeeze out and discard as much liquid as possible. Don't worry if some of the potato shreds turn reddish-brown from exposure to air. The pancakes will look fine. I prefer the texture of a waxy boiling potato in this dish, but a baking potato will work.

3. Stir together the potato shreds, the grated onion and the flour. Stir in the egg, add salt and pepper to taste, and gently mix in the flaked fish, stirring just enough to mix all the ingredients well.

4. Put a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Pour in the olive oil and spread it around with a paper towel. You don't need any more than is necessary to grease the pan evenly.

5. When the oil is hot, drop in tablespoons of the potato-and-fish mix, flattening them into thin rounds with the back of the spoon. Cook until browned on one side, then flip carefully and cook on the other. It shouldn't take more than five minutes in all to cook them through. Put the first batch of fish cakes on a serving plate and keep them in a warm oven while you make the next batch - I made eight small cakes with this recipe, in two batches of four each.

WINE MATCH: This dish should go nicely with just about any dry or off-dry wine as long as it's white. I paired it with the good-value Domaine de Pouy 2004 Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne featured in the June 2, 2004 30 Second Wine Advisor. A crisp, dry sparkling wine - a Prosecco, maybe - would also hit the spot.