PROCEDURE:

1. Cut the onion into paper-thin slices and separate the slices into rings. Mince the sage, if using fresh. Cook the onion and sage in the melted butter in a nonstick skillet or saute pan over medium-low heat for 10 minutes or so, until the onions are soft and translucent and starting to brown.

2. Rinse the liver and pat it dry. Cut it into thin strips. For ideal presentation, cut out and discard any random large veins and gristly bits. They're edible but unattractive and detract from the texture.

3. Put the flour on a plate and season it with a little salt and black pepper to taste. Pat the liver slices dry and dredge them in the flour so they're evenly coated, shaking them to remove any excess.

4. Turn up heat under the onions to medium-high, put in the liver pieces, and cook, turning occasionally, until they're just cooked through, 5 minutes or less, depending on the thickness of your slices. You don't want them bleeding rare, but trust me on this: Tender and a little pink at the center is far better than well-done and leathery.

5. Remove the liver and onions to a warm serving plate and pour the stock and wine and capers into the skillet, stirring and scraping the bottom over high heat until the liquid thickens and reduces a bit. (You may omit the capers if you wish, but I think they add a nice tang.) Pour this quick sauce over the liver and onions, and serve. I served it with a simple salad and a small bowl of spaghetti tossed with butter and chopped fresh sage to match the flavors of the dish; but mashed potatoes, crusty bread or just about any starch would do.

MATCHING WINE:
As noted, try a Burgundy, other Pinot Noir or just about any good Italian red; it will work well with an aromatic white, too - try a Northeastern Italian Tocai Friulano if you can find one. It was a very fine match with an exceptional Merlot-based red from Umbria, the Falesco 2000 Lazio "Montiano" featured in the Jan. 11, 2005 Wine Advisor Premium Edition