For an explanation of this post's (uncharacteristic) brevity, please see the first installment.
11 September 2003 – San Francisco, California
Frjtz – On a steamingly hot San Francisco day (the natives look nigh to a sweaty death) made worse in the inverted, humidity-trapping bowl of the Hayes Valley, a snacky lunch of crêpes, crispy fries, and Belgian ales under a ceiling fan is just the ticket. Eerie, semi-trance music sets the mood as I relax into a soft chair with a book, and nibble on Franco-Flemish treats, while knocking back Hoegaarden and Chimay.
Ghirardelli Chocolate Co. – The truth is, Ghirardelli chocolate is highly overrated. The other truth is, it makes a pretty decent chocolate ice cream soda, though the setting might have something to do with it: grab a frosty confection, escape touristy Ghirardelli Square, and sit somewhere on the grass of Aquatic Park on the Bay, gazing across sparkling blue water and milling, multicolored sails towards the Marin Headlands, which frame the most beautiful bridge in the world in misty green and gold. And just try not to be moved.
Jai Yun (923 Pacific) – Bryan Loofbourrow sets up and helps direct a "traditional" buffet at what can only be described as a completely nondescript white cavern, on a San Francisco hillside most tourists will scarcely even notice as they grind and clang Bayward on a nearby cable car. Without inside knowledge, I can't imagine anyone just dropping in here. And even with inside knowledge, things can't be all that easy; the language barrier, while not impossible, is formidable depending on who one talks to. We're happy to have Bryan at the metaphorical helm.
We're joined by Larry Stein, Christian Miller, and a sweaty Claude Kolm, who apparently decides to get a few cross-Nob Hill jogs in before dinner. Soon, the table is forested with tall, phallic bottles that travel back and forth between the table and the restaurant's cooler, chilling and heating in this schizophrenic San Franciscan evening.
Larry Stein arrives…
Décor? Hah. Service? Only to facilitate the delivery of food, which comes at an exceedingly brisk pace, and in proportion to whatever is the agreed-upon price for the meal. It's an extraordinary value, and tastes range from the prosaic and familiar, to the texturally challenging, to the mildly outlandish (for Western palates). I'm sure even more adventurous dishes could be arranged, but we start slowly, working our way up to jellyfish and back down again, in a procession of largely wonderful dishes (lobster is the only serious misstep) that cry out for light/medium-bodied, crisp, and not-always-dry wine. And hey, we've got a lot of that…
Rolly-Gassmann 1994 Riesling Kuppelweg de Rorschwihr (Alsace) – Wet cat just barely sprinkled with petrol and light green apple, turning to flat sorbet on the finish. A touch sweet. This would be pretty classic cold-vineyard Bas-Rhin riesling, except that it's not. As it is, it's better than the note might indicate to those not predisposed to moist feline and Exxon, but only just, and it's a little too fragile for continued aging. Drink soon, with delicate food.
Jost 1990 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett (4 91) (Mittelrhein) – One assumes this is near the Sag vineyard in the village of Carol Bay. (And if you get that pun, you need serious help.) Spun turbinado sugar and ground coal in a smooth, ripe, but simple wine that's not going to hold much longer, but that’s nice enough now.
…and so does Claude Kolm
JJ Prüm 1995 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (11 96) (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Smells like an old Chrysler…whether that's good or bad will, I suppose, depend on what the reader has done in an old Chrysler. Carbon, wet lime and grapefruit rinds, with a light prickle of sulfur, dominate both the nose and the palate, but underneath is a limber wine that just needs time to stretch out.
von Schubert 1995 Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese (13 96) (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Spiced gooseberry and thick, lemony pineapple with a chewy texture. The finish is expansive, and there's more acidity here than the rather dense palate would lead one to believe. Still, despite the succulence, it's not yet showing all it will show. Put it back in the oven, it's not done.
Diel 1997 Dorsheimer Pittermännchen Riesling Spätlese (17 98) (Nahe) – Light petrol notes in a sweaty room recently dusted with Pledge furniture wax. Turns fuller on the palate – a sort of widescreen depiction of sheet metal – with a long finish. All that said, the overall impression is a little wan. It probably just needs age, but there's something tenuous about it.
F. Haag 1992 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (6 93) (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) – Slightly cloudy, opening up to bouquets of crushed lilies resting on a bed of quartz. Zingy and even a bit tannic on the finish, with all elements in flawless balance. Majestic.
The tenth course
Matuschka-Greiffenclau'sche "Schloss Vollrads" 1971 Riesling Spätlese (4 72) (Rheingau) – Banana dusted with smoked ash and celery on a richly-spiced foundation of hefty granite. Full-bodied and powerful, still, and there's no apparent demise on the immediate horizon for this wine, though it's certainly in full development right now. Impressive.
JB Becker 1995 Wallufer Oberberg Riesling Auslese (12 96) (Rheingau) – Ripe caramel apples roasting in a misty oasis surrounded by a desiccating desert wind. Long and stunning, with beautiful balance. No hurry here.
Baumard 1988 Côteaux-du-Layon Clos de Sainte-Catherine (Loire) – Just starting to open up, showing apple cider (with a few mint leaves tossed in the pot) and wet chalk. Lovely and complex, with lengthy explorations of Angevin delicacy on the finish. Nowhere near done maturing.
Boxler 1989 Pinot Gris "Vendange Tardive" (Alsace) – Smoked pear and the scorched redolence of blackened quartz in crystalline equality, with hints of garlic and celery, and finishing long and luscious. Truly incredible dessert wine, from a masterful producer.
![[nasty fish]](http://www.myspeakerscorner.com/forum/user_images/tci_ca03_hammerhead.jpg)
![[shark]](http://www.myspeakerscorner.com/forum/user_images/tci_ca03_shark.jpg)
