Topic: TN: When you drink the southern, cross (California pt. 11, img)
Author: Thor Iverson (Boston, MA)
Date: 20040119110901

Los Altos
Swinging with the Cuppetts
Pacific Grove
The roadhouse of the Seven Gables
Passion and spirit
San Francisco
To be (or not to be) an anchovy
Dressner by the Bay
North Beach at Fort Mason
A Woodcutter builds a Kabinett
Make love, not Loire
What's the dill?
Nausea under the Tuscan sun
For an explanation of this post's (uncharacteristic) brevity, please see the first installment.

9 September 2003 – San Francisco, California

Estate Wines (part seven – Argentina & Australia)

(Notes, as with any large portfolio tasting of this nature, are brief. I return for second tastes of some of the more difficult-to-decipher wines, but most are relatively quick takes, and should be considered in that context.)

Altos Las Hormigas 2001 Malbec (Mendoza) – Tough, structured peanut butter and tannic concord grapes. Not why I turn to malbec.

Altos Las Hormigas 2000 Malbec "Reserva" (Mendoza) – Black pepper and dark chocolate with burnt fruit and tough, brawny, nut-like structure. Better, if brutal. The kind of wine that would beat you up in a dark Buenos Aires alley and take your money and your credit cards, leaving you with malbec-tinted bruises all over your body.

Torbreck 2002 "Juveniles" (Barossa Valley) – Fecal, simple, and obvious, with only a little bit of blueberry. Boring.

Torbreck 2001 "The Steading" (Barossa Valley) – Much better, but still not good enough. Blueberry and boysenberry with a very, very hot finish. For fire-eaters.

Torbreck 2001 "The Factor" (Barossa Valley) – Dense plum, blueberry, and boysenberry in a concentrated sludge of wild fruit. There's great structure and apparent potential on the palate, but the finish is no more than a microsecond of light bitterness. Where'd the wine go? I'd worry.

Torbreck 2002 "The Struie" (Barossa Valley) – Pepper powder with green, underripe, and overwhelming tannin. Grossly out of balance.

[ferry & Bay Bridge]

Steamed by the Bay Bridge
Torbreck 1999 "Run Rig" (Barossa Valley) – More pepper powder, with dusty celery and huge, dark blackberry fruit. However, the tannin has a strongly rotted character to it. Were there skin problems with this vintage? Since there's a possibility that this bottle is bad, judgement reserved.

Woop Woop 2002 Shiraz (South Australia) – Soft fruit jam with powdered sugar. For kids and their sugar-loving palates.

Hanehof 2001 Shiraz (Barossa Valley) – Prune juice and salinated tuna with a glaze of balsamic vinegar and molasses. Disgusting.

Mitolo 2001 Shiraz "Jester" (McLaren Vale) – Plum blossoms and some dirty menthol notes, with drying, slightly leafy tobacco and mint jam. Overall, this is just a green, underripe wine.

Kaesler 2001 "Old Vine" Shiraz (Barossa Valley) – A thick sludge of leftover winemaking products that probably would have clogged up city sewers for miles around. Utterly worthless.