Topic: TN: What's the dill? (California, pt. 9, img)
Author: Thor Iverson (Boston, MA)
Date: 20040115151927

Los Altos
Swinging with the Cuppetts
Pacific Grove
The roadhouse of the Seven Gables
Passion and spirit
San Francisco
To be (or not to be) an anchovy
Dressner by the Bay
North Beach at Fort Mason
A Woodcutter builds a Kabinett
Make love, not Loire
For an explanation of this post's (uncharacteristic) brevity, please see the first installment.

9 September 2003 – San Francisco, California

Estate Wines (part five – Piedmont)

(Notes, as with any large portfolio tasting of this nature, are brief. I return for second tastes of some of the more difficult-to-decipher wines, but most are relatively quick takes, and should be considered in that context.)

Boschis 2001 Dolcetto di Dogliani Vigna Sorμ San Martino (Piedmont) – Thick vanilla infused with dill. Gross.

Revello 2001 Barbera d'Alba (Piedmont) – Acidic red cherry and huge chunks of dill. Dull and obnoxious as hell.

Scavino 2001 Vino Rosso da Tavola Langhe (Piedmont) – An odd mix of exotic flowers, big red and purple fruit, and lilac-scented strawberries. Weird, but potentially enjoyable in the right sort of mood.

Molino 2001 Nebbiolo Langhe (Piedmont) – Dark, mysterious roses and dense, chewy coffee aromas. Balanced and quite drinkable, though the finish turns quickly to vanilla and bitter chocolate, so there's definitely a limit to its appeal.

Sandrone 2001 Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore (Piedmont) – Juicy tomato and summer squash sprinkled with fresh mint. Tannins have a dusty quality. Is there a smoothing wood note here? I've been fooled before, but it tastes like there is. OK, but only just, and I tend to prefer to eat my summer vegetables.

Paitin 1999 Barbaresco Sorμ Paitin (Piedmont) – Like sticking one's nose into a potpourri factory, with massive, sandpapery tannin, dried walnuts, and a complete lack of "fruit." The finish is oddly supple after such an assault, but a bit vegetal.

[SF strip clubs]

The best venue for these wines
Moccagatta 2000 Barbaresco Bric Balin (Piedmont) – Burnt blueberry and chalk with a truly unbelievable, crushing amount of tannin. Yet the wine is ripe and very fruity underneath that 500-lb tannic weight, showing black roses and some charcoal-like wood notes on a long, lightening finish. I can't decide if I like it or not, but I'd give it a chance.

M. Molino 1999 Barolo La Morra (Piedmont) – Thick Hershey's chocolate syrup, the kind in the squeeze bottle, with a little tannin. Why, why, why?

R. Corino 1999 Barolo (Piedmont) – All tannin, no pleasure. No fun.

Seghesio 1999 Barolo Monforte d'Alba La Villa (Piedmont) – Great dried flower nose. I wish I'd stopped there, and never put the wine in my mouth: dill, stewed fruit, and stewed vegetables, turning even more gross and seaweedy on the finish. I can't spit it out fast enough.

Scavino 1999 Barolo (Piedmont) – Chewy plum jam with big, ripe tannin and some herbal, cough syrup-like elixir. Turns even nastier on the finish, which is a shame, because there is at least some New World, we-wish-we-were-in-California potential here.