Topic: TN: North Beach at Fort Mason (California, pt. 6, img)
Author: Thor Iverson (Boston, MA)
Date: 20040112155605

Los Altos
Swinging with the Cuppetts
Pacific Grove
The roadhouse of the Seven Gables
Passion and spirit
San Francisco
To be (or not to be) an anchovy
Dressner by the Bay
For an explanation of this post's (uncharacteristic) brevity, please see the first installment.

9 September 2003 - San Francisco, California

Estate Wines (part two - Italian whites)

(Notes, as from any large portfolio tasting of this nature, are brief. I return for second tastes of some of the more difficult-to-decipher wines, but most are relatively quick takes, and should be considered in that context.)

Palazzone 2002 Dubini Bianco (Umbria) - Sharp acid with anonymous vegetal and citrus notes. Dull despite all that acid.

Costantini "Villa Simone" 2002 Frascati "Superiore" (Latium) - White flowers and dandelion, fresh, light, and pretty with a soft faux-sweetness balanced by acidity. Drink soon.

Fontaleoni 2001 Vernaccia di San Gimignano Vigna Casanuova (Tuscany) - Meyer lemon, ripe Granny Smith apple and flowers drying to corn silk on the finish. A bit aggressive but good.

Bisci 2000 Verdicchio di Matelica (Marches) - Obvious sweetness with good mandarin orange fruit and a bit of apricot, medium-low acid, and an attenuated finish. Very simple and mass-market.

[art on a wall]

Art Wall, famous San Franciscan
La Cadalora 2002 Pinot Grigio Vallagarina (Trentino) - Vivid, salty minerality and intense pear skin with lots of dry concentrate. Excellent, with a long, rindy finish, and showing both classic varietal character and some aging potential.

Aldo Polencic 2001 Pinot Grigio Collio (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) - Flabbier than the previous wine, but also fruitier, showing soft pear, apple, and melon, yet still with a little minerality. Marred by a wussy finish, however.

Gini 2002 Soave Classico "Superiore" (Veneto) - Melon, lemon and several other anagrams of those letters, with a simple midpalate and lots of banana on the finish. Seems highly atypical, almost as if Duboeuf circa-1990 had made this wine.

Gini 2002 Soave Classico La Frosca (Veneto) - Soft yet mineral-driven, with ripe yet tart apple and intense slate striations building in intensity to a stunning finish. Wow!

Fattoria di Magliano 2002 Vermentino della Maremma Pagliatura (Tuscany) - Light petroleum notes over melon, grapefruit and apricot with a drying finish. Balanced, but a bit cranky and uncertain.

Vie di Romans 2000 Izonzo del Fruili Pière Sauvignon (Friuli) - Ripe yellow pepper and lime juice, but overall very much like drinking liquefied quartz. Long-finishing, and with very good potential for short/medium-term aging.