Topic: TN: The roadhouse of the Seven Gables (California, pt. 2, img)
Author: Thor Iverson (Boston, MA)
Date: 20031212033524
Los Altos
Swinging with the Cuppetts
For an explanation of this post's (uncharacteristic) brevity, please see the previous installment.

6 September 2003 – Pacific Grove, California

Seven Gables Inn – One of the most marvelous places in which we've ever stayed (and, not coincidentally, one of the more expensive, though it's well worth the price). There's a beautiful view of the Monterey Bay and the town from the windows on all four sides of our room; the windows also allow the passage of cool evening breezes full of fresh, salty air. Tremendous breakfasts in lavishly-appointed common rooms cap off the experience. An incredible location with absolutely stunning rooms.

[Seven Gables Inn]

Sunrise…		 [Seven Gables Inn & Theresa]

…at the Seven Gables Inn

Tarpy's Roadhouse – Getting here requires a certain amount of faith, as it's not particularly near anything except the airport, and seems farther away than maps would indicate. Yet locals and tourists alike seem to have no problem finding this large, bustling establishment on the fringes of a quaint-ified shopping mall. We choose to eat outside, despite the rapidly cooling coastal evening, but without the outdoor heaters we would probably regret the experience. At the next table is a trio of vineyard owners (recognizable not by their appearance – I've no idea who they are – but by their conversation), drinking large quantities of everything but wine.

The food is fairly straightforward for northern California (which means that it would be somewhat more dramatic in large portions of the rest of the country), with little hints of excitement here and there, mostly in the direction of southwestern and southeastern flavorings and techniques. Competent cooking saves it from touristy mediocrity; my Monterey Bay calamari are perfectly tender, with a zingy Thai-influenced dipping sauce, and a venison special carries just the right amount of bite and flavor.

[sunset from Seven Gables Inn]

Sunset on Monterey Bay
With dinner, I dither between several choices on a nicely-constructed wine list, finally settling on a bottle of Novy 2000 Syrah Gary's Vineyard (Santa Lucia Highlands). Years ago, at a press and trade tasting, I'd been more impressed by this line than by the same winemaker's better-known pinot noirs, and I'm eager to see how things are progressing. Solid plum, blueberry, vanilla and bitter chocolate flavors dominate both the nose and the palate of this dense, dark wine, and while there's a good dose of (slightly underripe) tannin, there's not nearly enough acidity to carry what is a rather behemoth beverage. There's certainly nothing undrinkable about it – rather, it's a tasty drink that, for me, is much more enjoyable than Siduri's pinots – but it's an entirely single-note experience: all plateau, no variation. Objectively, it's a good and recommendable syrah that would be improved by more acidity and a little less tannic greenery. Subjectively, I'm bored after the first glass.

Less boring is a post-prandial snifter of Booker's Bourbon (uncut), a rather dramatic and fiery end to the evening, with huge spiced peach aromas and only a little of the expected burn on the palate. I alternate sips of the bourbon with bites of a wonderful olallieberry pie, which cools things off a bit.