Road Reports

Le Sud is one of the restaurants of Lyon gastronomic chef and pioneer Paul Bocuse. Like Guy Savoy in Paris, Bocuse has leveraged his reputation, found young aspiring chefs and developed a string of successful, well priced and diverse establishments. Other chefs have also followed this practice and it seems to work well.

Le Sud is not a Provence restaurant, though one would not know when looking at the bright yellow and blue colors that are everywhere. It s truly cuisine de Mediteranee with North African, Greek, Spanish, Italian and French flavors and dishes adorning the well priced and diverse menu. Bocuse calls the cooking, "cuisine de soleil" for it is prepared to mirror the sun drenched regions that border the Med. He's right.

Lunch starts with a complimentary Muscat Petillant de Provence, a nice refreshing glass of sparkling wine. On the nose it is pure citrus. On the palate lemon, orange and lime flavors are most apparent. It is delightful largely because unlike champagne it is not too bubbly, dry or tart. Instead it is a palate cleansing starter to go with the bread, olives and onions.

As a starter the Soupe de Pécheus au Safron, very much like Soupe du Poisson is served. It is rich and filling with the Rouille (orange colored paste of garlic and pepper mayonnaise) and croutons. The flavors of the Med comes through so well and the lingering finish is memorable. It is complimented by the 1998 Seguret Cotes du Rhone rose, whose deep pink color, lavender and thyme nose and crisp, dry raspberry flavors is only offset by a touch of acid in the finish.

Second course is a Personal sized "pizza," well sort of. On a flat piece of hearth baked bread you'll find crème fraiche is spread then topped with fresh smoked salmon that has been seasoned with dill and speckled with fresh Caviar. I wash this most flavorful dish down with a crisp glass of Chardonnay from Macon Village that sees no oak. It is a 1998 Thevenet Reserve. This is negociant wine, like the wines of Duboeuf. Quality, ready and a perfect restaurant pour. It is favored with apples and pears, is dry and crisp and provides a nice accompaniment to the salmon.

I end my meal with a 1998 Croze Hermitage "Le Millepertuis" from Guyot. The nose is austere at first before it takes on a robust spicy bouquet of Provencal herbs and blueberries. On the palate the wine can best be described as jammy for the berries, herbs and spices are all blended in this fruit bomb like red wine from one of the more overlooked and under appreciated regions of the Rhone.

Tonight L'Est, Bocuse's international inspired bistro. I can hardly wait.

Andy