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Road Report No. 21: Valbonne, France
© Andy Abramson
25 November, 1999

Valbonne is just down the road from Mougin so it suffers from the second child syndrome when it comes to restaurants and dining, as Mougin is at the center of Provence gastronomy.

Before heading to dinner I went into the small Tapas bar the Fontain aux Vin for some light food, olives, bread and some Provence wines.

1998 Porquelles Rose "les Illes" is a nice easy and pleasing rose with nice color and a great refreshing strawberry finish.

I also had a chance to try the 1999 Rhone Primeure (aka Beaujolais Nouveau of the Cotes du Rhone) from M. Aubert in Vaucluse. I'm not sure if I'm totally enthralled with more early release wines, but if this in any indication of what we will taste from the 1999 vintage, then we can expect to see some very fruity, full bodied wines. The Primeure is light in color, almost like a very deep Rose. It is clear, low in alcohol but flavorful.

For dinner I strolled down the lane to the Auberge Provencal, a small restaurant on the second floor of a building just off Valbonne's center square. The menu is a medley of family style dishes and some very lovely wines. I saw a name I recognized but could not place. It was the name Jean Pierre Gaussan, but called Vin d'Pays du Mont Caume, so I took the gamble and ordered a ½ litre for 38FF, about six dollars.

On the nose it was pure Bandol, but I continued to wonder why this wine is classed as VDP. On the palate, it is Bandol. On the label, it is Cadiere d' Azur which is in the AOC Bandol. The wine is a deep purple color, with a rich spicy nose of pepper and herbs, blackberries and thyme. The flavor is superb and very rich with layer after later of ripe fruit, plums, carob, cassis, blackberries, cherries and cedar. I suspect this is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre and only wish I could cart home a case, for it is as good as any young Bandol I've ever tasted.

Dinner was a series of very flavorful dishes. Sliced red peppers and artichokes in olive oil. Very rich Soupe au Pistou and a nice cut of lamb steak with a rich garlic Aioli to smother it with. The flavor and aroma surely kept the Vampires away that night.

Given my experience at the family and everyday dining places, Valbonne is on my list to explore again for it may be the next town over from Mougin, but it sure can battle on what it has to offer in the way of food and wine..

Andy

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