Andy Abramson's Road Reports

Road Reports, Vol 2003, No. 4: Hospice du Rhone
© Andy Abramson
May 31, 2003

Hello from Paso Robles and the 2003 Hospice du Rhone, where the wine is freely flowing and people from near and far are having a good time.

The friendship and fellowship being extended is incredible and the humor memorable - including seeing Paso Robles winemaker and event organizer Matt Garretson along with two French winemakers, all clad in pink on a road bike, each raising a finger and saying in three languages "call me Pinkie" to set the stage for an all-Rosé lunch.

But the Hospice du Rhone and the events surrounding the two and a half days is more than just grape talk and tasting. The tour and history lesson from Jason Haas on the formation of Tablas Creek was enlightening. The young son of founder Robert Haas, longtime importer of Chateau de Beaucastel, told the story of a 10-year quest that is really beginning to pay off.

The wines set for 2004 release from the winery - a partnership between the Haases and the Perrin family of Beaucastel - are showing very well. But it was the passion of the founding families to make everything the best it could be that came through in the 90-minute tour of the Tablas Creek winery and nursery.

The E. Guigal Dinner at Bistro Laurent in Paso showed why it pays to let this producer's wines rest before consuming. The 1998 Condrieu and the 1994 Hermitage Blanc were both exquisite, as was a very drinkable 1997 Cote Rotie. But it was the 1989 Cote Brune et Blonde, poured from half bottles at the library tasting, that stood out the most. More details here.

The Torbreck Dinner at Villa Creek Cafe (tasting report here) was an exercise in red-wine enjoyment. Jam-packed versions of 2002 Juveniles, 2001 Steading, and older Factors, new wines called Struie and Descendant, the Woodcutters White (pure Semillon) and a very nice blend of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne all showed how the whites from Torbreck are as drinkable early as the reds are built to age. Winemaker David Powell's stories about naming wines after his favorite watering holes in Scotland (Run Rig, Steading and The Factor) all proved humorous. (Read some of those stories here.) But the wines and excellent multi-cultural food stole the show.

The lessons learned about the new goings on in the Rhone from the winemakers of Vins de Vienne, telling tales how more plantings of new vines are going on higher up in Cote-Rotie and Hermitage, was enlightening and refreshing to hear as was a comparative tasting of four different Syrahs showing new techniques including an amazingly pure Cornas wine made without any sulfur.

University of California Prof. Carole Meredith's discussion on the history of Syrah and its roots, tracked by DNA analysis showing that the wine originated in France, was downright educational. Her common-language presentation was worth the ride to Paso Robles alone, as it clearly and succinctly presented the facts in an easy to follow manner. More details here.

But for most people coming to Hospice du Rhone is about tasting wine. The Friday afternoon Library and Barrel Selection tasting was a treat to behold, with winemakers and importers showcasing old wines and the special blends made for the charity auction. Older wines from Bob Lindquist continue to be my personal favorites. The 1995 Hillside Reserve showed charm and finesse.

Growers turned producers like Beckmen, producing wines from the western zone of Santa Barbara County, are emerging like Melville of a few years back. Along with Santa Ynez's Stolpman Vineyards, these newer producers are showing how a new, clean and less rustic production style is beginning to define the Santa Barbara/Central Coast style of Rhone wines, while emerging producers like Mat "Pinkie" Garretson, Saxum, Clos Mimi and Villa Creek, all based on the western end of Paso Robles, show a new rendition of Rhone wines that are distinctive and classy in their own right. Each shares similar soil, but that's where the styles end, as the winemakers' personal styles are clearly being imprinted on the purple-tinged Syrah and Rhone blends of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre.

Hospice du Rhone. It's time to go back and taste more wine and make more new friends.

(In another sidebar, Andy nominates his WineScene All Rookie Team, with tasting notes of spectacular wines from three rising young wine makers who showed their wares at Hospice du Rhone.)

Cheers,
Andy Abramson

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