Road Reports

Everywhere in France American music plays. At the Auberge du Cedre it was bop era jazz and Mississippi Delta inspired blues. At La Boucherie it was American chanteuses Ella Fitzgerald and Billie Holliday. Here in Lyon the four piece plays music of Benny Goodman and swing era numbers to the thundering applause of the Saturday night dinner crowd.

Sitting at one of the banquettes at Brasserie Georges, this 163 year old cavernous dining hall with a brewery for Biere Rinck in the back one can only close there eyes and imagine the pre war 1930s. The place is packed with young and old. A line goes out the door, for Saturday night is the night to spend time with friends and family.

Now the food here is not gourmet, but it is authentic Lyonaise and Cuisine of the North, meaning fresh fish from Brittany and Normandy like Oysters and Mussels contrasted by Alsatian chocrute specialties to more local dishes like tripe with onions, sauscion ad authentic salad Lyonaise.

The wines run the gamut from crisp Loire whites, racy Alsatian wines to fruity Beaujolais or spicy Rhone reds.

There is something to be said about staying power. The folks working the reception desk are the same people from two years ago. The black apron clad waiters work their same stations and the menu, other than a change in vintages is the same.

The Joseph Cattin 1998 Gewurztraminer is floral and pungent. It has a spicy nose, is loaded with rose petal and bacon fat. A great starter.

The food is not for the diet conscious. It is hearty cuisine that takes the chill out of your bones. But while hearty it is not heavy.

The sauscion in pastry with cream sauce is ready to ravish. Same for the duck leg over sauerkraut. Filling but not over done.

The red Cotes du Rhone is a great restaurant wine. 37FF for half pichet, it goes down really easy. No harsh tannins. Its fruity almost as much as a Beaujolais but it has the spice that the Beaujolais wouldn't.

No dessert, that will come later. Coffee only.

Andy