Road Reports

A new bistro opened just on the edge of the old town on rue Alphonse Karr. It's named Le Bistrot des Viviers and it offers as its specialties both fish and shellfish, something which along the Mediterranean is always good to have.

First up is a plate of fresh oysters. This is the perfect time of the year for them as there is an "R" in the month. Call that an old fish tale, but I always find Oysters are better now than in the summer.

To wash it down, a carafe, otherwise known as a pichet for 38FF (French Francs) for 50cl (centiliters) of a Vin D'Pay Sauvignon Blanc. For reference the exchange rate is 6.36 FF to the dollar so for about six dollars I get more than three glasses of crisp dry white wine that is as fresh as it gets. The wine is wonderful, with light acidity. It hails from the Languedoc, and is produced by an unknown cooperative. The restaurants buy these wines in bulk to serve as house wines. They sure put USA house wines to shame.

I follow the oysters with a bowl of Soupe de Poissons for 52FF. This is one of my favorite South of France dishes. It a dark soup, where you get the entire flavor of fish, almost like bouillabaisse without the work, in a succulent broth that lingers in you mouth forever. The dark brown color is so deceptive, because it is very flavorful, with Provencal spices and herbs adding to the aroma and taste. You add garlic aoli, a blend of garlic paste and mayonnaise, something I learned to appreciate at the former Bistro L'Escargot in Philadelphia when I first got into wine back in the mid eighties. The aioli adds richness and depth to the broth. You can have this in 100 restaurants and never have the same soup twice, as freshness is the key here.

Lots of fresh fish, lobster, right from the tank, along with grilled meat dishes are on offer. The wall mounted blackboard menu makes it easy to choose. There is also standard Parisian Bistrot favorites like Andouillette Sausage Roti (roasted), grilled filet mignon or duck, and of course home made Foie Gras Maison on the menu.

As the main course, the Aioli du Chef is steamed Cod fish, Langoustines (lobster), shrimp, mussels in the shell, steamed potatoes, carrots, baby zucchini and fine herbs. It is almost like a fish stew. The cod is moist and flavorful. The vegetables are nicely tender without being overcooked. With the Sauvignon Blanc the richness of the wine starts to show, and the Languedoc fruit, which is very different in density to its cousins in the Loire starts to show through. The wine takes on body and flavors that the food really brings out. Wonderful aromas of kiwi, limestone and fennel come through. A slight flinty taste is also popping up, giving it additional complexity and flavor.

I skip dessert, full from a bunch of free food earlier in the day from all the delays in Zurich. The dinner provided a nice, low-key start, in Nice. I know it will only heat up!

Regards,
Andy