Road Reports

Deep in the sun drenched Pyrenees Orientals region, way close to the Spanish frontiere sits Banyuls sur Mer, or Banyuls by the sea. To one side of you is the aqua blue Med. To the other mountains with terraced vineyards that have been there for centuries.

The wines of Banyuls and neighboring Collioure are sun ripened. Sadly we see very little of the wines from the region in the USA, save for a few from Dr. Parce’s Domaine du Mas Blanc, La Tour Vielle and Domaine de la Rectorie. In the spring and summer the place is jumping, but come fall and winter it becomes a sleepy town, with most of the hotels and restaurant closed for cleaning, upgrading or just a long break. Many are planning for the new year with parties as the residents from the region all plan on making Y2K something special in France.

I had the pleasure to find a nice spot for lunch that is just across the street from the post office. A few of the winemakers said it was good, but not as good as two of the spot shuttered for the season, but better than the restaurants that border the costal road.

La Canadells is a small restaurant. Maybe 30 people can be there at once. The service is personal and the enclosed deck very relaxing. I am sure in the summertime, with the doors open, the ocean breeze coming in and the sounds of the surf it is quit inviting. The cooking is Pays Catalan or cooking of the region. The wine list is heavy with wines from nearby and up the hills into the more northern Roullssion region.

Lunch for under 200FF included local red and white Vin d’Pays de Catalan along with a series of appetizers and a wonderful entrée and dessert.

The white Catalan wine was wonderful as was the red. Both were refreshing, low in alcohol, rich in fruit and very easy to drink. The balance, structure and roundness of the fruit was sensational.

I started with a plate of mussels and cream sauce with onions. I forgot how good mussels in white sauce, on in this case, cream could be. The lovely steamed mussels are a light orange color. They are all nice sizes, some as big as oysters, but for the most part bite size. The cream sauce is light and flavorful, with hints of garlic and onion. With the white wine it is perfect. Neither overpowers the other and each dances in harmony with the other.

Next up are a local favorite, grilled peppers, with fresh, I mean really fresh, anchovies from right outside. They are salty, but light. Served with hard boiled egg, olive oil and black olives this is a wonderful salad dish and once again the VDP white wine is a perfect match.

The main course is Tournedos Rossini, fresh filet mignon in a Banyuls wine reduction with a slice of Fois Gras. Not for the timid, this is a rich, mouth-filling dish, that comes with diced potatoes and a serving of pepperade, in this case chopped tomatoes and herbs. The fruity Vin d’Pays de Catalan red is a wonderful pairing, with the fruit and the sun rich flavors coming through. The wine is very soft, with ripe black currants, cherries, and prunes. It has some port like aromas but it is not heavy. The honey, licorice and anise are there along with the very full-bodied fruit flavors. As a result it compliments the Banyuls sauce, but does not slip away unnoticed. Most of all it is refreshing to the palate.

Cheese along with a dessert of local prunes in a Banyuls sauce and coffee rounds out the meal, providing a nice break to the mornings tasting and afternoon drive to the Minervois region.

Andy