Road Reports

There is a new spot to dine very reasonably that is causing quite a stir in the Languedoc. It’s called Chez Phillippe and is run by two affable gentlemen who cut their teeth in Paris learning how to do cook and run a restaurant, but then their passion for wine and fresh shellfish moved them back to the seaside.

The restaurant is brightly lit, with pastel blues and yellow colors inside and out. Just a few hundred meters from the port, their outside deck in the spring and summer must be packed, for their cooking and their wine list, plus the 100FF menu price, with a choice of five entrée’s, appetizers and desserts makes you wonder why you would pay more elsewhere.

The list is spectacular with everything from Gauby to Cazeneuve to Lascaus to Granges de Pere to St. Jean de Bebian to a host of local producers and cooperative wines. Their by the glass choices are smaller producers, providing a good way to learn about up and coming stars.

Being Sunday, I opted to go with the 40FF supplement and splurge. I had the delightful Mussels Gratinee with Parmesan cheese. This very velvety dish of fresh pan seared mussels is served in a very light soufflé of eggs and butter, and then pan roasted with the cheese. Magnificent.

I had it served with a delightful Sauvignon Blanc from the near by Cotes du Than, the Le Cave Les Costieres du Pomerols has made a wonderful white with a good deal of complexity. By itself it is a nice aperitif, but with food, it really exploded. The wine is totally different from a Loire SB. The fruit is more lush, ripe and tropical, less herbaceous and fruitier. With the food the smoky aromas come forward and the wine takes on more complexity than earlier.

My main course was equally pleasing. Coquilles St. Jacques in saffron broth over foriestiere mushrooms was dazzling. The combination of the three flavors melded together so perfectly. The woodiness of the mushrooms, the velvetiness of the Saffron and the soft texture of the fresh scallops went perfect together.

For dessert, a Pot du Creme. Soft and lush vanilla crème and a shot of espresso.

Terrific lunch.

Andy