Road Reports

Today was a nice day to drive and go tasting, so I got out of dodge, hit the Maison des Vin and then went to a few Cotes de Provence wineries, one in the north just in Les Arcs and two right by the sea, near Hyeres in the town of La Londe les Maures.

Chateau St. Pierre makes wines of red, white and rose. They are hard to come by and are worth seeking out. The 1998 Rose Tradition has strawberry flavors, sells for 27ff and delivers a rich salmon color and flavors that are typical for the region.

The top end Rose, Cuvee du Prieure is slightly lighter in color, but richer, deeper and more complex both in taste and strcture. It has good fruit, a long finish and gobs of strawberry flavor from the blend of Grenache and Cinsault.

The 1998 Cuvee Marie is loaded with berries, sandlewood and is bone dry.

The two whites, the St. Pierre and the Priuere are gotally different. The blended traditional wine has Ugni Blanc, Rolle, Clairette and Semillon. It offers a yellow hue, a solid perfumed bouquet and light tropical fruit. It is a perfect aperitif wine.

The Cuvee du Priures is a blockbuster. Made from 100% Rolle it is luch and complex with a deep yellow color, soft rounded fruit, with a perfect balance and structure for near term drinking. I can easily see it paired with a pungent fish dish or soupe de pistou. Superb.

The reds are equally dazzling. The 1997 Cuvee Tradition is full of cherries, blueberries and plums. Made from Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon the wine is a nice everyday wine. Then you step up in class in a big way to the Cuvee du Priuere also a 1997 release. It opens with a perfume nose of rose petals and lilacs. Is deep red color prepares you well for a fruit bomb like wine full of cassis, cherries, blueberries, anise. It too is a blend of Cabernet and Syrah and made for drinking over the next 5-7 years.

In La Londe les Maures are a series of very fine wineries, producing some exceptional wines, especially when the growing conditions permit. Domaine St. Andre de Figuries and Chateau du Jasson are just two worth seeking out. St. Andre's wines are imported to the USA by Franklin Selections in Washington, D.C. They're made by a former Burgundian winemaker who for years worked for Michele LaRoche, plying his trade with Chardonnay from Mersault. The wines from this Domaine have a major difference from Burgundy. Up north, the wines pretty much make themselves. Down south, the winemaker has to do a lot of work due to the ever-changing conditions caused by the near-by sea.

We had the good fortune to go through three rounds of wines, each of increasing quality and complexity. That was followed by some barrel tasting of the 1999 wines.

1998 Cuvee Magall, Cotes de Provence Rose

A blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, these grapes are not estate grown, but are from a vineyard plot the family leases in the Var region, in central Provence. The grapes, harvested in late September have given off a light salmon color to the wine. It is dry with good dose of light strawberry fruit flavors.

1998 Cuvee Valerie Blanc

A blend of Ugni Blanc, Rolle and Semillon, the light clear yellow colored wine has great depth, good lemon and lime zest flavors, minerals and stony flavors. It's exceedingly aromatic nose.

1998 Cuvee Francois Rouge

A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, the wine is a medium red with a nice bouquet. Still slightly closed, it is easy to drink, with flavors of cherries, berries and Provence spice.

1998 Cuvee Des Princes Rose

A blend of Mourvedre, Cinsault and Grenache, the wines has a clear salmon color, is a totally organic wine, as are all of the Domaine grown releases, and has light strawberry flavors. It is a refreshing wine and can be enjoyed rather easily as an aperetif or with fish based soups.

1998 Cuvee Blanc de Blanc

Made from Rolle, Semillon and Ugni Blanc this is a luscious wine, almost Burgundian in richness. It has a wonderful crispness not often seen in Provence whites. Lemons, limes, wet stones, flinty mineral flavors, with the only dull spot being a slightly hot finish which would not be evident with food.

1998 Cuvee de Marquis Rouge

A nice ripe easy to drink fruity red. Very dry in the mid palate.

1998 Grand Cuvee Rosé

A blend of Cinsault and Mourvedre, this is a stellar wine. A light, almost translucent shade of pink, with fresh light strawberry fruit, hints of blackberries and an every deepening bouquet that fills the glass.

1998 Grand Cuvee Blanc

Made from Rolle and Semillon, the wine is produced in 100% new oak. The white leads off with a delicate spring flower scent, while its almost clear color delivers layers of spicy fruit, tropical flavors and a slight eucalyptus finish. Delightful alone or with Soupe de Poisson, this wine would be a wonderful in the summertime with fish or lighter chicken dishes.

1998 Grand Cuvee Rouge Vielle Vignes

Made from old-vine Carignan and Mourvedre this is a spicy monster. The nose is deep and brooding, throwing off red and black pepper, Provencal herbs. On the palate the peppery spice, red cherries, blackberries, tar and cassis. The wine, still young, ends with some fresh strawberries. Very enjoyable.

The 1999 red wine, taken from barrel is equally if not more impressive than all the other Grand Cuvees. It already is showing excellent balance, good tannic structure and medium acidity. The fruit is full of jammy flavors of plums, blackberries, spicy cassis and is as delightful as all the other wines from St. Andre de Figuries.

Chateau du Jasson is right around the corner well, sort of. The winemaker produces heralded wines that are targeted for the restaurants of France and seem to end up on the better lists. Limited production, hand crafted efforts and a real true the soil and the sun approach makes these wines highly sought after.

The winery is sadly sold out of its 1998's already, but we are fortunate to taste them.

The Rosé is delightful, perhaps the best of the day. Called Cuvee Elenore for the winemaker's lovely daughter, it is jammed with raspberries, strawberries and spice, possessing quality, craftsmanship and complexity. This is by far a food wine first and foremost with depth and a finish that is lingering.

The Blanc is equally thrilling. Sharp tones of tropical fruit, peaches, apricots and melons along with some very pronounced citrus fruit-lemons, limes and oranges all are in this very floral and robust white.

The Red offers the most serious tasting, but, is still a bit young. It's lush middle of blueberries, blackberries and currants lingers for a long time.

Sadly these wines are not available in the USA.

Andy