Road Reports

Her attentive service and that of her cabin captain is so far superb.

The first wine of the trip, a 1990 Tattinger Comtes de Champagne, served in a unique bottle, more old world than the traditional Champagne bottle is exceedingly pleasant,

It's got nice toasty scent, with cool tropical fruit. Very easy to drink, there is almost no back acid, which makes this a wonderful and easy wine to drink all by itself or with the Amuse Bouche, a nice slice of buffalo mozzarella over toast and a second selection of bruschetta. The sparkler stands up exceeding well with the acid in the tomato.

Now, I'm not a Champagne drinker regularly, but this wine is one that could easily change my habits, and in a hurry.

The next wine is very interesting. By itself it is okay. Normal. A 1997 Domaine LaRoche, Cuvee Vieux Vignes is 100 percent Chardonnay. Made from 25 year old vines, with salmon fume and Osteria Cavier it takes on a whole new flavor. Crisp minerals come forth. Light layers of nutmeg and almonds, along with green apples, pears and a touch of spice. It has a nice angular finish, with a slight peach ending. This dry white is no slouch and a very nice food wine.

Now, being on Swissair is a treat. Like most European flag carriers, they have native wines. It has been years since I had good Swiss wines. No, not Fendant, which is DYA (drink youngest available), on the flight they actually have Swiss wine.

First up is the 1998 Raymond Paccot Fechy Pinot Gris, La Colombe. Made from 35-year-old vines from vineyards near Lake Geneva, this full-bodied white reminds me of Pinot Gris from the Okanagan region in British Columbia in Canada. More Germanic in style than Alsatian, it has lots of lemon, lime, pineapple and grapefruit.

While finishing up the Salmon and Caviar along with the crème fresh (sp) I discover that I do like caviar. Maybe it's the altitude, but with this Pinot Gris caviar is sensational.

Next from the land of neutrality is a really interesting red. It's a 1997 Ardevine, Michael Bovin, Cave Ardevaz Chamoson, which for those of us who have never had it before is a Bordeaux style blended wine, made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Humagne. I have no idea what the last grape is, but can say that I really like this wine. The closest I can describe it to is a red from the Savoie in France or an Aussie red that sees some, but not too much time in the barrel. The reports are it ages 12 months in Bordeaux style barrels. It has great body, superb smoothness and character that is quite unique.

With the very herbaceous chaud-froid, compose of gelee, mushrooms and fine herbs, it pairs so well. The sweet fruit of the Cabernet, the spiciness of the Syrah and the herbaciousness of the Hamague is a perfect blend for this very nice appetizer. The appetizer is kind of like compote, with a beautiful texture and richness, almost like cream of mushroom soup, but with the whole mushroom.

Another Swiss wine, this time Pinot Blanc, from Domaine des Ballisers is a totally organic wine which is light, fruity and possesses a bouquet of fresh cut spring flowers, green apples and a slight toasty almond aroma. With the Thai red curry flavored prawns, served alongside a bed of creamed leeks and coconut flakes it takes on fullness, very similar to the Pinot Blancs of Alsatian producer Keuntz-Bas.

With my entree, grilled tenderloin of beef, served with creamed savoy cabbage, you get three reds. French, Italian and Chilean.

The Bordeaux is by far, hands down the wine of the night. A 1990 Smith-Haut Lafite, this is pure Nirvana. Aged nicely for the past nine years, the wine has the softness of a Napa Valley Cabernet, but with the refined elegance that makes Bordeaux wines so sought after. Loaded with soft red berry fruit, it is like an elixir of pure passion. An absolutely stunning bouquet, which keeps getting stronger as the hour passes, this wine demonstrates that in a very good year what a talented winemaker can do. Featuring a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, the spicy, vanilla flavors abound. My friends who have 1984 BV Private Reserve will understand this wine well. It has that type of silky texture and finish. In a word, sensational. I would drink this any day of the week.

The other two reds, a 1996 Castello di Nipozanno Riserva by Marchelli di Frescobaldi and a 1996 Vina Errazuriz both paled in comparison. The Chianti was one dimensional and simple. Some spice, some tobacco and of course, cherries. The Chilean was bright Cabernet, with blackberry and back cherry fruit.

The dessert wine, a 1997 Swiss Petite Arvine from from the Domaine du Mont d'Or Sion is a very nice sweet white. Figs, peaches, ripe melons and nectarines all find there way to your palate. A delicious end to a nice start for the trip. The wine is rich in aromas and very mellow on the palate. It is very reminiscent of a nice sweet Gewürztraminer.

Well that was the flight. Breakfast was good too.

Stay tuned,
Andy