Hospice du Rhone: An Evening of wines of Guigal at Bistro Laurent
© Andy Abramson
May 29, 2003
A wonderful lineup of approachable, drinkable and food-friendly E. Guigal wines matched an inventive yet traditional Rhone Valley meal at one of downtown Paso Robles better dining spots, Bistro Laurent marking the unofficial start of the 2003 Hospice du Rhone for me.
The 2001 Cotes du Rhone Rosé, a blend of Counoise, Syrah and Grenache differs from the Guigal Tavel in color and flavor. While the Tavel is more of a "drink in the heat wine," the rosé is much more food-friendly, with a deeper rose-petal color, a more fruity bouquet and a meatier center. Blessed with a delightful strawberry aroma and very full raspberry, strawberry and blackberry flavors, the wine paired very well with a medley of appetizers ranging from crispy ratatouille, goat cheese and escargot tarts, to salmon rillettes and fresh oysters in cream.
A very lively and expressive 2001 Condrieu showed the flavor profile that makes these wines so sought after. Deep peach flavors sandwiched around fresh honeysuckles and lime made an excellent match to a lobster salad with belgian endive, fava beans and truffle oil. The wine's viscous nature and sweet fruit flavors was only brought more to life with the counterpoint of the truffle oil.
But it was the second white, a stunning, almost ethereal 1994 Hermitage Blanc that saw three years in barrel before being bottled that stole the show of the first three wines. A blend of 90 percent Marsanne and 10 percent Roussanne, it showed gloriously with a deep and dark golden color, fino sherry like notes, and an almost creamy rich, almond, honey flavor. Served with a Filet of Rouget, the wine became the focal point of the course as it was just downright expressive with flavor, length and finish that seemed to not dissipate until the very last drop was well past the palate.
Guigal, which own vineyards in the Northern Rhone, sources its red grapes from various parcels and growers in the Southern Rhone as negociants, yet year after year, their Cotes du Rhone, Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape wines gives may people years of drinking pleasure.
The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape, coming on the heels of an outstanding 1999 release is no exception to that rule. Blessed with an almost opaque ruby color, the wine has changed dramatically in a few months since I first tasted it. While still a baby, the wine delivers an aromatic bouquet of raspberry flavored Grenache and blueberry scented Syrah that is mirrored by its palate tastes. Matched up expertly with a compotee of rabbit and caramelized onions in red wine sauce, the earthy flavors of truffles, wild herbs and roasted fruits stood up to the rustic nature of the dish.
But as good as the Chateauneuf du Pape was, it was the 1997 Cote Rotie that was served next with roasted duck and fresh cepes in a balsamic vinegar sauce that stole the red wine show. Considered a lighter, off vintage, but likely the most approachable of their Cote-Rotie's releases in the last ten years, the black pepper laden Syrah was overflowing with blueberry, green olive and roasted herbs. The finish, showed hints of sun drenched red bell peppers and lingered for up to 30 seconds.
While I tend not to be as big of a dessert wine fan as some others are, the 2001 Muscat Beaumes de Venise, Domain de Coyeux was exceedingly pleasant with caramel, honeysuckle, lilac aromas and a nutty, peach melba and sweet pear flavor set and provided a delightful accompaniment to a soup of melon and berries with Muscat Baumes de Venise.
Walking away with a full stomach and a happy palate, one thing I continue to feel about Guigal, is their wine are never as good young as they are when served with a hint or more of bottle age.
Cheers,
Andy Abramson
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