© Andy Abramson Road Reports Vol #2, #1 La Cagouille Telephone: 01 43 22 09 01 Every time I visit Paris I find starting my trip at the wonderful fish house near the Tour Montparnasse, La Cagouille. It's not that it's fancy, for it's not. I choose to dine over and over again at La Cagouille because the fish is about as fresh as it gets in Paris. Throughout the day the menu changes, as new fish and shellfish arrives each hour from the Rungus market where all the restaurateurs buy their daily stock. Nothing can be more shocking to a dinner guest than to learn the item on the chalkboard menu has been replaced. Then again, nothing is fresher. Each of the three times I've been to La Cagouille, I've always been impressed with the quality, easy going atmosphere, the value and of course the wine list. The best deal is the 250 ff menu that includes an appetizer, main course, side dish, dessert, coffee and a half bottle of wine. The wine choices change each month and the owners takes prides on finding both personal favorites and new finds. In previous visits the wines were Sancerre and Rhone whites. This month the choices came from the Loire, and I opted to go with a nice light red to enjoy the warm fall day, while I dined outside amongst the plants that surround the patio. The red, a 1999 St. Nicolas de Borgueil from Domaine de La Lande possessed a nice ruby red robe, aromas of plums, cassis and berries. On the palate flavors of cherries, blackberries and plums came from the wine that is made from 100 percent Cabernet Franc. Before the appetizer arrives, the gift from the house is a saucer full of very fresh razor clams. These tiny sweet clams are steamed and then served in drawn butter. Forget the fact that the butter is likely bad for you. The clams are moist, sweet, plump and full flavored. Up next came my appetizer. Since I know everything served is literally just out of the water, I went with Anchovies in oil and shallots that were superb. They were light, not fishy, nor salty. Perfect. The main course was a favorite that no matter where else I have the dish, it is never a good as at La Cagouille. The dish, considered a signature dish of the establishment, is One Sided Seared Salmon or Salmon Unilateral. The perfectly pink orange colored fish is cooked in butter (of course) and seasoned only with salt and pepper, with red pepper coulis and a side dish of garden fresh snap peas, carrots and green beans. The salmon is mouthwatering. It's light flavor, and the deft seasoning of sea salt and ground black pepper is perfect and matches up nicely with the Loire red. Dessert is a pot of crème caramel, which like everything else at La Cagouille is delicious. It's consistency is firm, not runny. It comes with a dessert wine that sits on the bottom, but is neither heady or heavy. If you want fish that is as fresh as catching it yourself, check out La Cagouille. Tasty Bites...on my way back to my hotel to catch up on some rest following lunch I stopped by the new wine bar in Bercy that one of the top wine shops, Nicolas, has opened in the new Bercy Village. For all of 12 ff I had a nice glass of Domaine Schlumberger 1996 Riesling. The wine was very rich, deep and viscous. It possessed, a pale gold color, notes of fresh violets and minerals on the nose and flavors of honey, pears and apricots. What's so good about Nicolas is they have 16 wines by the glass on tap. I think over the next few days I'll visit Nicolas again. Road Reports 2000 Vol. 1 #2 24 September 2000 Petrus Like many, I enjoy dining at places that I always wanted to, but didn't in the past for a variety of reasons. One is price. Another could have been there was always someplace else that I wanted to try. Well Sunday nights in Paris, the pickings for better dining is limited, and I didn't want to go back to places I've been before because the purpose of the trip is to wine and dine in places that are new to me (other than a personal sentimental favorite or three)... So, knowing how hard Paris Sunday night dining would be, I ventured over to the very respectable and posh 17th section and dined at Petrus, a restaurant I have walked by many times, always peering at the menu and the crowded dining room. Like La Cagouille, Petrus is a seafood restaurant. Dining at Petrus on a Sunday shows why so many places are closed. Parisian's stay home or they go to the country. The crowd was thin, but so was the traffic on the street, on the Subway (yes I took the metro at night-using a cab only to get back after dinner). Being a lover of fresh shellfish, which Petrus is known for that, I chose Petrus over Vin et Maree and Cap Vernet (both of whom are also open on Sunday night). I've been to Cap Vernet before and loved it, but had already spent the day walking the Champs Elysee and I really like visiting the 17th as it brings back fond memories of a trip from the early 90s. Also like La Cagouille, Petrus has a menu for 250 ff, only it does not include coffee or wine. The Menu Medetarraneen features your choice of appetizer, main course and dessert. I started with a glass of the house Sancerre, and worked it all the way through dinner as after the half/bottle and glass earlier in the day (and it being the first night off the red eye, I didn't want to over do it). The Sancerre was crisp, dry. Perfect for the first course, six fresh served Normandie Oysters. I ate them straight, with only a quick splash of the mignonette, a blend of vinegar and shallots. They were plump, sweet and easy to devour. For the main course I had the Tournedos of Thon (filet of tuna) that was served with a demi-glace sauce over bamboo shoots with a side of whipped potatoes. The tuna was sensational. It was grilled over an open fire, had a touch of char to the outside, but the inside was a perfect red, almost sushi like. I've had grilled tuna many times from my own grill and from Pelly's in Carlsbad, CA or Union Square Café in NY and never has it been this tasty. For dessert dining light (yeah right you say) I selected the three sorbets. Fruit flavored frozen gels that cleansed the palate. Petrus is a restaurant and for someone who loves the Bistrots and Brasseries of Paris, a nice change of pace.
Road Report Vol 2 #3 Baracane-Bistrot de L'Oulette When one looks for the quintessential Parisian bistro the definitive foodie looks for class, charm and quality. Having lived in Southern California the last nine years, the closest I came to enjoying a bistro was the ill-fated Pirets in Encinitas, that closed its doors in 1994. A haven for wine and food mavens and overseen by then GM Rick Alles who has since gone on to sell wine, Pirets for my friends Jim Curl, Ray Feist, Dave Clark and Lou Barrack was something of a different place. Sadly, it faltered not because the cuisine of Mike Almos and Scott Meyer were sub par, or because Rick faltered, quite the opposite. Pirets fell due to financial woes caused by the La Jolla location being uprooted for a modern shopping center that now has such establishments of fine eating like Jamba Juice, California Pizza Kitchen and Starbucks. So my journey to Paris on a Monday, led me to a place no more than a few hundred meters from the Seine River, in the 4th Ard. Baracane is the sibling to L'Oulette, a restaurant in the Bercy district I have twice enjoyed, once on a blind date over Valentine's Day in 1998. The cooking is from the Quercy region, out by the Gaillac country in the French SouthWest. No, tex-mex on ancho chilies here. The cooking is pure and divine and the wine list is full of new labels from the regions of Madiran, Cahors, Tursan, Bordeaux, Quercy and of course Gaillac. The list numbers 20 and 16 of the wines are available by the glass with prices ranging from 12 francs to 18 francs per 10 cl glass. A great deal if you like to experiment, rather than ordering a single half or full bottle. I started the afternoon with the very interesting Bordeaux roséfrom Chateau des Tros Croix. As I'm not a Bordeaux hound, preferring more country wines from the less known and under-appreciated regions of France, I found the 1998 rosédes Saignee to be light and lively, with flavors of strawberries and a bouquet of fresh cut roses. The blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc was very refreshing, had a bone-dry style and was light on the palate, yet flavorful at the same time. Next up on the road to new wine finds, was the 1995 Coteaux du Quercy from Domaine de La Garde. A cepage of Auxerrois and Cabernet Franc wowed me over with its charm and elegance. The SW of France has not been known for its even-tempered wine style, usually being the most rustic wines of all. No more, for the Quercy and the 1999 Tursan Vin des Landes from Le Gasconde Dulucq, a inky black blend of Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon showed how well the region is developing and likely will be part of the next wave of wines washing up on USA shores. While the Tursan through off flavors of cassis, plums, black cherries with a bouquet of violets, the Quercy offered up flavors of berries, tar, carob and black pepper spice. Oh and lunch. How good it was. I had a hard choice between the Cassoulet de Quercy and the Onglet (Hanger steak) as both are favorites. I sorta knew no matter which I chose I would be happy, but it is much too early in the trip for Cassoulet and not quite chilly enough for the meal that really sticks to your bones. Also, Onglet is something of a treat, as you rarely see it stateside. Along with a salad of fresh field greens, baby lettuces and radiccio, blue cheese and fresh walnuts ( I think this is a Waldorf salad by name elsewhere) the Onglet was cooked to a medium rare and was delightful. Served with scalloped potatoes, with small onions that have been sautéed whole, the blending of the steak and the wines was a perfect match for an early fall day in Paris. Baracane offers four different fixed price (prix fixe) menus, ranging from 56-238 franc. Depending on how you select, you either get a plat du jour and dessert, all the way up to entrée, main course, dessert, coffee and wine. It seats 28 in its small sunlight yellow painted dining room. Up front there is a traditional Zinc bar, with the kitchen in the back.
Road Reports Vol #2, #4 Wadja Let me let you in on a secret. Wadja is a place that is not in every restaurant review book. Thankfully, or you could not get in the place. Those that do cover it give it high marks and so do I. Sporting a wine list that would have Kermit Lynch or Eric Soloman envious, the small adroitly appointed yellow storefront bistro offers up some of the best wines and cooking that can be found in the Montparnasse section of Paris. With too many wines available by the glass to list and count, what made Wadja so impressive was the cross section of country wines from the various regions. Sure there were Bordeaux, Burgundy, Alsace, Beaujolais, Loire and Rhone. But the well-chosen list featured numerous wines from the Languedoc, Roussillon, Corsica, Provence, the Savoie, Jura and the South West. If this were a Friday and Wadja was in San Diego, I would be joined by two dining and wine drinking buddies, Ray Feist and Rich Spahl. Like me, they would want to return. They would like this place as much as we all enjoy Flemings. I started off my 9 PM dinner with the 1997 Patrimonio Cuvee Croce Blanc, Domaine Leccia from the island of Corsica. The wine possessed a deep golden color, was viscous and long with flavors of kiwi fruit, pears and lemons. It was a delightful match-up for Dorade Tartre, sort of like a Tuna Tartre only with more flavor. It's served diced in an olive oil and herb base over a tomato sauce for color and dipping. As luck would have it, they to had Onglet on the menu, and even though I had it earlier in the day, it was what would do best with the wine over the rabbit and veal. This time the Onglet was prepared with mushrooms not onions, and cooked in a garlic and shallot greased pan. Dessert was a sublime crème brulee that would make the best of list anywhere. (Note to GM of Flemings Cameron Lumsden, we need Hanger steak on the menu. It has the flavor of filet, the texture of a New York Strip and cooks like a rib-eye steak. Send Roy to Paris to learn about it, or better yet come yourself.) With the meal I had a quartet of red wines, each from a different part of France. First up was the 1996 Breton Chinon. The wine was rich, jammy, chewy and mouth-filling. It's flavors of raspberry and cherries were melded together in perfect harmony. As expected, the 1996 wines from the Loire are hitting stride and should provide another 5 years of enjoyment. The 1997 Coteaux du Languedoc from Domaine d'Aupilhac in Montpeyroux was a perfect restaurant wine. While the 98 is just arriving in the USA, and nowhere near ready, the lighter, more forward 1997 shows why winemaker Sylvain Fadat is considered one of the young Syrah masters. Loads of blueberries, cassis and plums. Next up with dinner was the sensational 1999 Ricard Cairanne Cotes du Rhone Village. If 1999 is as good in the Rhone as I've seen so far, the 1998's just appearing in the states will be heavily rivaled. This wine was fabulous. It was as big as a Gigondas, as round as a Croze-Hermitage, possessed a youthful equality that really kept going. I found myself just swilling this wine down in almost one gulp, it was long, fruit, flavorful with black and blue berries, bing cherry, sandlewood and a hint of herbs. Last up was a gift from the next table. It was good too, a 1998 Domaine Richau Anjou Rouge, that had a light ruby red color, soft raspberry notes on the nose and a strawberry flavor on the palate. The wine was easy to drink. The investment banker and his wife chatted with me, first about wine, then about the new economy. It seems, even in France, dot.com or as they say, point com is making great strides. I ended my meal with a wonderful cup of Espresso that was preceded by two glasses of Banyuls (one purchased by the restaurant) 1996 from La Tour Ville. I remember when Kermit Lynch offered this, and now kick myself for passing on it. It was nutty like a port, filled with vanilla, chocolate, red cherries, blue berries and tobacco. If I had ordered a dessert with chocolate the pairing would have been tremendous. Wadja. It may be a secret, but not for long. Road Reports Vol #2, #5 Jacques Melac Nestled in the corner of a quiet street is one of the true wine bars of Paris. It's named after it's handled-bar sporting owner, Jacques Melac who besides being a colorful character in his own right, offers some of the best selection of wines by the glass, bottle or case to take away. Following the wonderful lunch at Baracane Bistrot, I took the Metro over to Melac's small bar, which is deceiving. One room leads into another, then another, before you end up in the back dining room cum wine store. Amazing, for Jacques has some of the best choices from around France that you will find anywhere, and at very reasonable prices. My guess is that many of the USA importers make a point to visit Melac's wine bar in order to get an idea of whose hot this year. In addition to his wine bar, Melac authors an annual guide to wine to buy and grows grapes in one of the few Paris AOC vineyards. So, with wine list in hand I sat through four wines from the Languedoc and Roussillon that seemed to strike my fancy, along with some sauscion and rillets. 1999 Chateau de La Liquier Vielle Vignes, Faugers The blend of Syrah, Mourvedre and old vines Carignan is luscious and charming for such a young release. The strong blueberry overtones predominate as the long finish dazzles you. Definitely a rival to Alquier. 1998 Domaine de Schistes, J&N Sire, Cotes du Russillon Village Very easy to drink, far forward fruit, the blend of Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache is full of ripe blackberries, blueberries and black cherries. Good, round, full and refreshing. 1998 Puech-Haut Coteaux du Languedoc A favorite of mine from the 1995 vintage, I am happy to see the wine is even better with the current release. A blend of equal parts of Grenache and Syrah, the St. Drezary winery has put out another blockbuster. Full of black pepper spice, blueberry and cassis fruit, the wine is even smoother than the 1995 was upon its release. It offers a long finish and goes very well with the smoked sausage. 1998 Borrie La Vitarele, St. Chinian Possibly the best wine of the day. I had this wine last year at a marathon tasting at the AOC St. Chinian. They it was one of the best along with the Canet Vallette, but now it has really delivered what everyone who tasted it back in November thought. Full on the mouth, very youthful, but rounding out nicely, black stone fruit, berries, this jammy, super-concentrated wine is one to keep an eye out for.
Road Reports Vol #2, #6 L' Alexandrin Lyon is the temple of Gastronomy bar no place else on Earth. With chefs like Bocuse, Orsi, Chavent, Blanc, all in the region, great cooking abounds. So with so many choices I went to a small, but highly regarded spot in the 3rd district of Lyon named L'Alexandrin. Run by chef Alain Alexanian the posh eatery is one of the new hot spots on the Lyon dining circuit. Across the room having lunch with a party of 12 was the Minister of Foreign Affairs for France. What makes L'Alexandrin so good resides in its simplicity. Sure there was quality food prepared and delivered with an architectural design behind the presentation, but many times, the look, is more than the product itself. Not so here. Alexanian pulls off delicious and attractive eye appealing dishes course after course leaving the lunchtime crowd of dignitaries and business people feeling very happy, but not stuffed. The well-chosen wine list is not overpriced either, with many good to very good selections from Burgundy, Beaujolais, the Rhone, the Loire and Bordeaux making this a spot a great find. For lunch I started with a series of amuse bouche. These tiny portions are delivered to you as a way of getting your taste-buds ready for what comesm Cht. First up was a tiny puff pastry that had crème fraiche and sliced dried sausage. Then came an absolutely sublime and stunning compote of tuna, marinated black pepper corns in a base of butter and herbs. My first course was pressed tuna-steak, which looked like a saddle of lamb. It was dark, but not over cooked, retaining all the flavors and juices of fresh caught fish. The tuna was served over a sliced potato, herbs and fresh wilted greens, with an olive tapenade and tomato coulis. For the main course, the chef prepared a delicious shredded lamb dish, that was served inside a hollowed out baked potato shell over a bed of zucchini and tomatoes in a red wine reduction sauce and mushrooms. This was immediately followed up with a warm goat cheese and field greens salad and then chocolate mousse and the required coffee. For wine, I went the solo selection route with a half bottle of the 1998 Yves Cullerion St. Joseph. The wine was very soft and rounded and fruit forward. It would seem while the southern Rhone produced more monolithic and backwards wines in 1998, the north has produced wines of charm and elegance. Flavors of blueberries from the old vines Syrah, along with black pepper, sweet cherries and tar made this wine a natural with the lamb. It had a lingering finish and was very good. As my first meal in Lyon in a year, I have to say it was more than a good start. L'Alexandrin was fantastic and makes the list of places to return to in the future. Given my track record, with Maximillian in Zellenberg and others, I would not be surprised to see it earn a Michelin star next year. Road Reports Vol #2, #7 Brasserie du Bondy This trip so far has included bistros, restaurants and dinner at 37,000 feet meaning it was time for a change to a traditional French brasserie. The brasserie, which evolved from where you go to drink beer and eat food like you have at home, is very much a northern France concept. Alsace and the Lyon region are where the bulk of them are and the size ranges from small to grande, from the dozens to literally the thousands as I have experienced before here in Lyon at Brasserie Georges. So for tonight, I traveled to the brightly colored Brasserie du Bondy, which boarders the river. Starting off the meal was a nice aperitif, a glass of Gewurztraminer. The wine offered a polite smokie and rosépetal bouquet. On the palate, the classic lychee nut and bacon fat flavors surrounded the slightly sweet apricot, peach and petrol flavors. For the starter, I opted for Salad Lyonaise. This field green lettuce and tomato salad is dressed with soft-boiled egg, croutons and bacon. The chosen wine was the cuvee of the Alsace, Edelzwicker, which is a blend of all the Alsatian varietals. For the main course, I had to go with classic Alsace. Chocroute. With the Edelzwicker it was a nice pairing, but I find that I prefer a rich red with the sausage, ham and knockwurst so from the list, by 1/4 pichet was a nice cooperative grade Crozes Hermitage from 1998. The Crozes was chewy, ripe and very much fruit forward. Its deep ruby red robe was a perfect tease for the blueberry, raspberry, rosépetal and violet flavors that lay beneath. It was a perfect wine to quaff. Dessert was a pear tart and coffee. What I like about Lyon is the fact that, like in Paris, you have many choices. The cooking is not only local, but provides a nice array of choices from all around France. Road Reports Vol #2, #8 La Soupiere de Lyon What do you get when two former chefs who worked Pierre Gaignaire, one of the most creative and forward thinking chefs in the world, decide to open up a restaurant in the gastronomic capital of France. You get La Soupiere, a new restaurant in Lyon. The nicely appointed restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner. It Is small, but very fashionable. The wine list is fairly priced but the selections could be improved. Like is so often the case, a new restaurant has to work to build their list, because competition for bottles is very stiff for the better producers. Fortunately, this is France, and there always is something to try. I started with a very nice glass of Muscat, not from Alsace, but from the Languedoc. This was a dead ringer for a wine from Rolly Gassman or Paul Ginglinger. I was totally surprised to find out that it came from the south and not the North. Called Le Mist d'Ambrussue, it was a 1998 from La Croix Saint Roche in Saint Series. Thought I am not aware of this producer, I must say that it rivals any of the best Alsatian Muscat I have ever had. Its nose was pure clove and spice, while on the palate flavors of honey, licorice and sweet melons all came through. It was so good I almost ordered a second glass, but its slightly headiness warned me from that. The red wine was a 1998 Beaujolais from the AOC Fluerie by Dutraire. It was a light red wine in color and body, possessing nice forward and easy to drink fruit, soft tannins, light spice and lots of fresh strawberry flavors. For lunch I started with what is rapidly becoming a favorite of mine, Ahi Poke---diced tuna tartre. This time it was served with green lentils and a mixture of truffle oil. My main course was a delicious, stunning and most flavorful Grilled Shrimp (Langoustines) with Rilletes of Haddock in a coriander sauce and tomato confit. The flavors of the two fish dishes were so diverse. Where as the first was very Asian in flavor, the second was most definitely French Mediterranean. La Soupiere, for a new restaurant opened by young chefs, is one to keep an eye on for Lyon is one place that cooking is a refined art form. Road Reports Vol #2, #9 Cazenove The concept of Annexe's or second smaller restaurants by France's leading chefs is really becoming something I have taken too, especially when the cooking comes out of the same kitchen, using the same ingredients and are being prepared by the same chef. In Lyon, as in Paris, all the best chefs have moved in the direction of "branching" out. But unlike the chain or franchise concept that has occurred in the USA (just visit Las Vegas and you'll know what I mean) where namesake knockoffs of lower quality rule the roost, here in France the top chefs create a new environment, at lower prices and only mimic a few dishes that made them famous in order to not erode the quality or the reputation of the original restaurant, or in many cases their own name. Here in Lyon, Bocuse, Charvent, Blanc and Orsi have all created branches. Bocuse has opened three, one each in a different part of the city, and are aptly named Nord, Est and Sud, two of which I visited last year. Charvent and Orsi have put neighboring establishments within striking distance of the flagship establishment, but Pierre Orsi, has done it so well, by using the same kitchen, that his four year old Belle Époque period restaurant, Cazenove won my heart after only one visit. Orsi is easily a repeat top ten chef every year from France. He is one of the chefs who, along with Gaignaire and Duscasse are regularly rewriting the rules of French cooking to incorporate a more worldly view. The menu choices are daunting, with both a 280 FF and 200 FF option, plus individual plates. The wine list is well chosen with many big gun Bordeauxs and Burgundies as well as a nice assortment of half bottles and wines from the Languedoc, Loire, Rhone and Alsace. I started with a glass of an all-time favorite Sancerre, the 1999 Lucien Crochet. I've been drinking this since the 1985 vintage and recall how memorable the 1988 was. This was every bit as good as it remains one of the most crisp and dry styled Sancerre that tends to get richer, bolder, racier and grassier as the night wears on. Loaded with steely mineral and herbaceous notes, this is one white wine to keep a look out for when it reaches US shores. My first course was a small cup of Crème of Mushroom soup. It was lighter than air, and if anything the cream had been reduced down to nothing for all that was on the palate was pure fresh farm raised mushroom flavor, that made me think of Kennett Square, PA mushrooms. Up next was the signature dish of Orsi, Ravioli de Homard (lobster) in a citron saffron and leek sauce with diced tomato for color. It was wonderful and so flavorful. The Sancerre really pulled out the lobster flavor in this dish and it was so light and tasty that it was gone within a few moments. The main course, served with a half bottle of the 1995 Vidal Fluery Saint Joseph was a Grilled Dorade with a Tapenade and Basil infused Ratatouille. Again Orsi shows why he is one of the world's master chefs with the slightly charred flavor of the fish melding perfectly with the olives of the tapenade. My salad/cheese course was a mellow St. Marcellin Affine de la Mere Richard. Dessert was a French classic, Crepe Suzette. It was like everything else, sensational. Total cost of this meal, was only $49.00 USD. Following dinner Orsi visited with me and we discussed cooking, dining and of course wine. I suggested he add Domaine d'Aupilhac to his list, as he was a tad light (only two from Chateau Lascaux) on Languedocs. He replied that he would. Time will tell. Orsi is extremely friendly. We talked about the Internet and he pointed out that he was one of the first top chefs in France to have a site, http://www.pierreorsi.com Road Report 2000 Vol. 2, #10 Antibes, France Cheese. Cheese. Cheese. If the French love anything as much as their wine, it is the cheese. In the USA we have only a small srantering of the cheese available that your local supermarket has here. When you want cheese in most places back home you go to the deli counter. In France at the HyperMarche (a very, very, very big supermarket combined with mass merchandise store meets a strip mall) you find cheese not at the deli counter, but at a counter the size of most USA food stores meat and deli counters combined. Soft cheeses, hard cheeses, creamy cheeses, sharp cheeses. All, and more, in one place. Add to that some cheeses are packed, some need to be cut and the varying levels of milk, how long they have to be aged. You get the picture. Lucky for me, I'm a wino not a cheeser. So living as a semi-resident, here in the south, for my hotel is more of an apartment than a hotel and it comes with a kitchenette, I bought some cheese to enjoy as breakfast food or for a light snack between meals. The cheese, along with the fresh sliced sauscion (sausage/salami) and parma ham (jambonne) is always a nice pairing with a good bottle of wine and some Badoit (mineral water) to follow. The three cheeses I've had so far have been one hard and two soft. The hard was a Raclette de Savoie. Nice and sharp. The first soft cheese was incredible. A chevre, it was named "Le Pelardon des Cevennes" from the town of Moissac. It was really soft, creamy and delicious. The second soft cheese was "Picodon de la Drome" and was more distinct in its flavor and sharpness. Of course to go with cheese means the requisite bread and loafs from the bakery, which of course is inexpensive, hot out of the oven and fresher than fresh. Yes, and wine. I tried a Non Vintage Juancon Sec from GEN, called Vert Gallent. I'll stick to the vintage stuff and the bread and cheese. It was a noble experiment, but was bone dry and did not have the big fruit flavor I expected. Hope your enjoying these reports. I'm trying not to get too cheesy ! A quick note to the list. I had the pleasure of driving down after a nice lunch in Valbonne at L'Auberge Flurie, to take a quick check in on the 1999 provence releases, many of which are showing up on the lists of the restaurants and on the importers lists back in the USA. My overall impression of the 1999's compared to the 1998's that I had last year are the 1999's drink well now, but the 1998's are wines with the ability to age up to ten years. I tasted 13 wines at the Maison des Vins Cotes de Provence from their tasting room. They present a cross section of what is available. My aide, Veronique, who was serving the wine admitted that the wines in her opinion were better upon release a few months back and seem to be loosing their freshness, and are not big wines compared to the year before. The wines I enjoyed were White 1999 Domaine de la Jeanette "Bouquettes de Jeannette" from Heyres. It is a blend of 50 % Semillon and 50 % Rolle. The aroma and tastes are banana, white flowers and lemon, with fresh citrus fruit finish. Rosé 1999 Domaine des Feraud from Vidauban. A blend of 30 % Syrah, 20 % Cinsault, 20 % Grenache and 20 % Tibourin. It has a candy berry, strawberry and banana aroma with very prominent strawberry and raspberry flavor. 1999 Chateau Maupague from Puyloubier. A blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault and 20% Syrah. White flowers, minerals bouquet, with citrus peel and mineral flavors. Very good finish. Chateau Bregnancon "Reserve du Chateau" from Bormes les Mimosas, a blend of 58% Cinsualt, 12% Syrah, 28% Grenache, 4% Mourvedre. Lots of bright berry flavors on the nose along with peaches. On the palate loaded with fatty fruit, spicy and racy berries and citrus. None of the reds really hit me, the five were pleasant but nothing to really be wordy about. I then went to La Bastide Neuve and tasted their roséand Red wines, as the white was all sold out already. The 1999 Perles de roséis made to drink upon release. It is fresh, lively and very dry. It is made from the younger vines of the estate. The Cuvee des Anges is more complex, richer and deeper wine. Its length is dazzling and the blend of Old Vine Mourvedre, Tibourin and Grenache is very powerful and lasting on the palate. Lots of berries, minerals and citrus. The two reds, Beau Sarment and Cuvee d' Antan are totally different. While the Beau Sarment is meant to be drunk early (1-2 years) the Cuvee d Antan is the wine to be aged. In a good vintage 7-10 years would be normal. This wine will go five. The Beau Sarment is perfect backyard BBQ wine or would be good for tailgating at football games. It has fruit, flavors of brambly berries, and tar. Yet it is light. The Cuvee d'Antan is another story. It is rich, deep, and has flavors of tar, blackberry, blueberry and cherries. Lots of nice spice and is well rounded.
Road Reports Vol #2, #11 Antibes, France I paid a visit to the local Hypermarche a few days back. I bought a few bottles of wine there to sample over the time I'm in an apartment. Normally I buy wines or am gifted bottles as I visit the wineries, but this trip is more business so the wineries are not really a part of the agenda. I continue to be amazed at the amount of wine available here in France. The bottles on the shelves of Hyper's and Supers all the way down to the local market range from the smallest producers to the largest cooperatives. From week to week each store or chain runs various promotions and even the imports get some notoriety. So far I have opened three of the six bottles I purchased. Likely one or two will make it to London for a wine dinner with Robert Helms, one of the long time stalwarts of the Compuserve Wine Forum. One that is a certainty to make it will be the 1998 Baron d'Aupenhac Saint Chinian from the Cave de Roquebrun. I visited that very well regarded coop back in the fall of 1997 and know how well they make wines, and actually have some of the 1995 in the cellar. As for the wines I opened. One was the GAN Jurancon Sec, NV, Vert Galant. It was nothing special. The second was the 1998 Clos Montemahni, Patrimonio from Corsica. It was a nice dry roséwith all the usual flavors, but with more bite and balls to it. I suspect the grapes are vastly different from the typical Tavel or Bandol Rose, and it's easy to see what the hot Corsican sun can do. Last up was my favorite, a 20 FF wine (about $2.80, ) it was a 1998 Cave de Rasteau Cotes du Rhone Les Hautes Roches. This is a traditional Rasteau made with a blend of Grenache and Cinsault using a traditional method of vinification. It really brings out the fruit and character of the wine. It is so good that I would make this an everyday drinking wine at any bistro I went to. Lots of aromas of fruits and spices it went great with day old crusty bread, salami and ham. I figure this wine can easily last three years or more. Sidenote..I have yet to have a bad 1998 Rhone. While the wines from the Southern Rhone like Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Chateauneuf du Pape have all be big bold and backwards, the more elegant and flavorful have been the Northern Rhone St. Jospeh's and Croze-Hermitages. When I get to London and back to Paris I intend to study this subject in more detail. From the south of france, Andy Road Reports Vol #2, #12 Ristorante Re I went back to one of my favorite small wine and food restaurants when I'm in the South of France. Only problem is that it's in Italy, a few miles over the border, up in the Liguirian hills of Dolceacqua, the home of the Rossesse grape. Ristorante Re is a small place with a well-chosen and stocked wine shop next door. Owners Marisa and Oscar do a wonderful job and turn out some of the best food, and wine offerings, in the area. Soon, the notoriety will arrive, as based on yesterday's lunch, it is obvious that Oscar is really rounding out as an incredible chef. Marisa and Oscar designed a tasting, Menu Degustazione, for me that paired up some really nice new wines and dishes prepared based on the bounty of the day. NV Franciacorta Francescoi Uberi Spumanti Brut from the Lombardy region of Italy. Made from 100% Chardonnay grapes, the light and zesty delightful sparkler had fruit flavors of melons, oranges and pineapples. We then tasted three Sauvignons. 1999 Bargo Margarido, Fruili (12.000 lira) This possessed a nice lime flavor and was very normal and typical of easy to drink Fruili white. It was paired with a delicious Chicken and fresh Mushroom salad that had been laced with sun-dried tomato and fresh pressed olive oil. 1999 Torre Regazzo Colli Orientali Fruili was a wonderful lime, orange flavored Sauvignon with a lively approach and really good balance. The finish was a tad hot. This was paired with Branducajun del Pupo, which is squid mixed with fresh mashed potatoes. 1999 Villa Matilde Falerno del Massico Bianco. Perhaps my favorite Sauvignon of the trio. Nice lemon and lime flavors. Good citrus bouquet. Lots of round cantaloupe and melon flavors in the finish. Lasting, smooth finish. This was paired up with my favorite dish of the day, a light Pumpkin flan with a Parmigiano sauce. (Flan di Zuca con Salsa di Parmigiano) We then took a break and tasted three different new 1999 Dolceacqua Superiore Red wines blind to see what Marisa should stock and serve. 1999 was not a great year in western Liguria, and none of the three were super impressive. Of the three, the Foresti release was the most balanced, showed the most fruit, had layers of tar, tobacco and cherries, but lacked the perfume and aromatics that can make Dolceacqua a wine to remember. 1997 Casale de Giglio Merlot from Lazio showed cherry fruit, had subtle berries and was a typical Rome region red. This was paired with A ribbon pasta and cauliflower dish that was laced with fresh diced pancetta and olives in a very light olive oil sauce. Two more mushroom dishes followed. Seppie inzimino con Bietoli, which was Mushrooms prepared with green vegetables in olive oil and Mushroom with potatoes in a garlic and pesto sauce. The two were perfectly paired with a 1995 Brunello de Montalcino Castelgiacondo by Marchese Frescobaldi. Big cigar box nose, chewy tobacco and cherry fruit. Lunch ended with a 1999 Ben Nye Moscato Passisito di Pantilleria. Wonderful, big, but knowing I was driving I didn't take much and enjoyed the dessert. They made a special crumble pie from the local Rossesse grapes. It was very special. I would go back again and again, and may even today. Road Reports 2000 Vol 2 #13 Paris, France Well it has been a wild and wooly few week or so for your wandering wine and food fanatic. From the South of France where I ate cooking of the Med, tasted wines of country and found that the towns of Valbonne and Biot, with their wonderful grouping of restaurants remain some of the best hidden-foodie gems around I've dined formally, informally, ate in Pubs, bars, restaurants at trade shows and from hot tables. Before leaving the South of France in Valbonne, and then Biot, I was able to eat the freshest of fish, the tastiest lamb and some very fresh vegetables in relaxed and refined elegance, without high prices. The Bistrot de Valbonne, Chez Balthazar and Auberge Flueri along with Auburge du Jarrier were all very enjoyable, charming and delightful. Each offered local wines as well as choices of some of the best from the Rhone, Provence and Bordeaux. Off to Rome, Italy I went and that meant more wine bars than restaurants. The wine bars of Rome may be the best around. Some have as many as 500 wines by the glass available (Il Gochetton). The cooking is very good (Enoteca Antica Via Della Croce and Monti A.O.C) and the prices are more that reasonable. In Rome the veal limone, marsala and other ways it was prepared were consistently light and mouthwatering. Crostini and pannini, bresola and carpaccio were mouthwatering. The pasta dishes come out piping hot and the sauces are light and flavorful. Near the coast, fresh clams, sardines and lightly fried fish were plentiful and I found that like in the states, new wine regions are popping up throughout Italy and each can challenge the best of Tuscany and Piedmont. In London, it was largely work at the Streaming Media Conference, writing daily reports for Streaming Magazine (www.streamingmagazine.com) and serving on a panel about Sports and Webcasting with Ken Rutkowski (www.kenradio.com) who I co-host a few technology shows with on the Internet. Here are some of the highlights. Compuserve Wine Forum Dinner The one wine that stood out head and shoulder from what I tasted in Rome was the 1995 Brunello di Montalcino from Banfi. It was so sensational and so good, that I bought a bottle and took it with me to London for a dinner organized by wine forum member, Robert Helms. At that dinner, held in London's modern looking Kensington Place, we had another great wine, the 1995 Lakes Folly Red Wine from Australia. It was sublime and very enjoyable, but needs time. I also recall the smashing 1985 Clos Baudin Vouvray-sec that was a lovely example of Loire whites at their finest. If anyone recalls the 1985 Poinitowski Aigle Blanc, think that time four in complexity and depth. The Baudin had flavors of peaches, apricots and ripe kumkwats, along with melons that showed up and kept coming as the night progressed. Then there were red wines that I recall from the Languedoc. Two were 1998 releases. The Baron D'Aupenhac from the Cave Cooperative du Roquebrun which took a while to open, but ended up showing very well. Perhaps it was the travel over the past week, as I purchased it near Antibes, hauled it to Rome and then on to London. It showed lots of Garrigue spice with thyme, lavender and sage, and big blueberry and black berry flavors. Then there was the 1998 Domain L'Hortus Grand Cuvee. The wine was very young, but shows how well L'Hortus can be. I had the good fortune to taste this wine last November in Pic St. Loup and recall how backwards it was when tasted out of the barrel. Now it is more together, has soft, gentle tannins, loads of big blueberry fruit and will be around for a long time to come and only get better. Last up from the d'Oc was the Chateau Rimbert, from Saint Chinian. This 1999 was likely a blend of Syrah and Old Vine Carignan. It has lots of dark stone fruit flavors, is not unapproachable at all despite it's youth and would be a good, new Languedoc, despite it's new world style. There was also an absolutely lovely 1997 Argentine red from Catena that David Prais (fellow list member, wine lover and friend) like so much he purchased a case from the wine merchant at the table. David also brought along a Baja California red that was nice and enjoyable to match his hand picked Lakes Folly in the Cab flight. London's International Food and Wine Festival I also went to the International Wine and Food Festival at London's Olympia. Largely a wine show for people who buy at the supermarkets not wine shops, there were some interesting wines from Greece, Italy and the Southern Hemisphere which seems to be getting the big push this year. There I discovered a tremendously good value Italian white, which I hope to find an importer for in the USA. It is from eastern Italy, along the Adraitic coast. It was light, fruity and charming and would be a perfect summer white. The 1999 Rosemount Estates Show Reserve was very impressive. With its citrus, light toasty vanilla oak, ripe peach-melba flavors, it was one of the best young Chardonnay's I had. Equally stunning was the 1997 Rosemount Estate's Roxburgh. Always a crowd favorite, the wine is showing why it makes it way into lists that carry the best White Burgundy's. Also from Australia was the Tim Adams Shiraz, 1999 release. This under 16 dollar red wine was unmistakably Aussie, but unlike the over extracted and heavily oaked wines that hit the west coast, this wine had the depth and flavor, but more subtle complexity and nuances, showing a more Rhone and less California influence. The 1998 Peter Lehmann Shiraz was declared wine of the year by one of the London newspapers. A taste over at Wine Planet booth, a new online service in the U.K (http://www.wineplanet.co.uk) showed why. It was big, full flavored and loaded with chocolate, cassis, carob, blueberries. The wine is still young and has a dark, stain your teeth and the glass ruby purple color. Then there was the 1986 Taylor Flagette Port that was indescribably delicious. Dinner at The Waterside Inn Then there was the Waterside Inn, which is owned and operated by legendary French Chef Michelle Roux. My friend David Prias, his wife Elizabeth are close friends with the Rouxs so they, along with KPMG's Digital Media Group consulting wiz, Kate Hemion and another couple, made our way out thirty or so minutes from central London for dinner next to the Thames in what can best be described as French territory on foreign soil. If people in Philadelphia think Le Bec Fin is the best, or in New York where Restaurant Daniel, Le Bernadin and Lespinasse all claim to be the best French restaurants outside of France, they need to take a big step back, for Michelle Roux leads the pack far and away at the Waterside Inn. After the three-hour plus meal it was easy to see why Roux has, for 16 years in a row, earned the three star rating in the Michelin guide, plus maintained his unequaled stature within the Relais & Chateau group for over twenty years. First the restaurant is a charming English country house, turned French. The service is spotless. The wine list is chosen with expert care. The food is out of this world, with an almost ethereal feel. We drank three wines and had three courses each, plus dessert. The mixing and matching of foods at the table and trading bites of each dish added to the fun because it enabled everyone to sample the various dishes. First up from the wine list was the 1983 Leon Beyer Cuvee Particulaire Riesling. When you look at it on the surface, 1983 was the best year in the last 20 in Alsace. To find a bottle on a list at this point for under $200 in a top restaurant is rare. Given that Roux is the largest buyer of wine in the world (he buys for Royal Caribbean Cruise ships as well as their executive chef) you have to expect some finds. The wine was perfectly aged, tasting like a recent release. The aroma of petrol, racy limes and lemons was spot on. The wine delivered flavors of fresh citrus and limestone, lemons and orange peel was like a summer day in the orchard. Next up was the Didier Dagneau Pur Sang, 1996. This was the wine steward's choice over the Henri Bourgois Sancerre which I thought would be better with our meals, but I deferred. It was good, but I am not a Dagneau fan, despite it's nice development since I last had a bottle, it still has a slightly acidic finish that turns me off. Third wine of the night was the French bottling of the 1989 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape. We get the unfiltered and unfined version of the wine, which means it is more rustic, takes longer to age and will throw more sediment. The French release is cleaner, making me think upon first whiff, that something was wrong with the wine. There wasn't. Not only that, the wine was spectacular. It is aging nicely and can easily go another ten years or more. It is big, rich, deep, loaded up with brambly fruit, briary spices and herbs, lots of oriental tea and blackberries, tar, cherries and cassis. Our meals ranged from the lightest Foie Gras, Fish soup, Turbot, Compotes of Langoustine, thinly sliced duck breast, farm raised Giber to two desserts-the tart tartine and the soufflé-both of which were so sublime, yet lighter than air. If I could eat Roux's cooking every day I would, for the Waterside Inn is French soil on foreign land, but Roux's cooking is not foreign at all, for it is purely extra-terrestrial. Well its off to Paris...the reports will flow, as will the wine and the food. Oh, for those of you who care, I appear to have lost weight. The scale says 80. That means I'm one hundred lighter. Only problem is that it is in kilos. In three weeks I've gained bout five pounds. Being back in Paris, one of the worlds great walking cities means more of that, as long as the sky's (and my head) stays clear. From Paris, good night. Road Reports 2000 Vol 2, #14 Paris, France Le Baratin Le Baratin is not a fancy place to go. It is a local watering hole that has great cooking, fantastic wines both by the glass and by the bottle and a friendly, get to know who's sitting next to you kind of feel. It sits off the main street up in the gentrified Belleville section of Paris by the outskirts of the city. The menu is not extensive, but changes everyday. The cooking is simple, country style, Auvergene style with sausages, beans, beef stew, guinea fowl, fresh aubergines and creamy vegetable soup on the Thursday night menu. Of course I started with some wine. First up was the 1998 A. Arena Patrimonio "Grote de Sole" from Corsica. It is a very crisp white wine with a fresh pineapple bouquet. The fresh citrus aroma gives a nice indication of what is to follow, as on the forward palate flavors of limes, pineapples and white roses are all evident. The finish is light and smooth with a layered fruit effect that is most pleasing. Second white was fruit cocktail from the Loire, a 1997 Clos du Coulaine Savannieres. It was rich and cloying without being syrupy. Melons, honey apricot flavors with a long and dizzying finish. Switching to reds, I ordered some Sauccion (sliced salami like sausage, only not as oily.) The 1998 Cote du Avergegne Vielles Vignes by Domain D'Upera is a light purple color Gamay wine. It is crisp, light and very easy to drink. 1996 Domaine de la Coste from the Coteaux du Languedoc is a dark purple color wine that is a nice blend of Syrah, Grenache and some Carignan. It has the typical Garrigue aroma and spice, while oozing with blackberry and blueberry fruit. It was only flawed by a slightly hot finish. 1997 Clos Trace Blance Touraine is a pure wine made from Cot. It is big and loaded with raspberry and cranberry fruit. It is grapey and jammy with big rich currants, cassis and a long, lingering finish of red cherries that would almost be pie filling like. 1998 Herve Suault St. Joseph is a very dark ruby purple with a super olive and black pepper nose. It is ripe, round and full bodied, with cherries, blueberries and a magnificent finish of blackberries and tar. I drank those reds with a very nice Tranche (stewed beef) served with English navy beans and spinach. While dining the couple at the next table and I struck up a conversation about wine and they poured me some of their 1995 Domaine de Marcoux Chateauneuf du Pape, which while not as big as the 1989, is a very well made wine with toffee, coffee, black fruit, oriental tea and Provence herbs. I then ordered my first full bottle of the 1998 Domaine d'Aupilhac Coteaux du Languedoc, from my good friend Sylvain Fadat in Montpeyroux. Fadat release an early drinking version of the CdL to the Paris restaurant crowd, which this likely was. It was pure genius. Talk about Hermitage or Cote Rotie being made in the Languedoc, this by far this is his best CdL ever made. Layers of black and green olives, herbs, fruit, smooth and forward, yet rich, deep and full bodied, this is a wine that will age for 10-15 years easily. We drained the bottle and it was so good, I can't wait to have more. I ended with no dessert, just coffee and then headed back to a restful night's sleep. Road Reports 2000, Volume 2 #15 Paris, France Taira The sign on the wall says "Cusine de la Mer" and with the Japanese name, you have to first think Sushi. Well you'd be sort of correct, as chef Taira is a classically trained Japanese chef, but has earned his grade in Paris by working with all the best fish and seafood chefs. I was pointed to Taira a few trips back by the owner of La Cagouille who went to school with Taira many years ago. Since La Cagouille is conhe sred one of the best examples of French fish cooking in Paris, who would argue with the suggestion. He was right. Opened only a few years, Taira is in the very trendy 17th area of Paris, not to far from the Argentine or Ternes Metro stop. The room is fancy, very classy and modern. This is not a neighborhood bistro, but a house of gastronomy with a menu-carte priced at 190 ff about $19.00 for two plates and either cheese or dessert or the "Menu Plasir du Chef" for 380 ff. The menu carte gives you the choice of six appetizers, plus the appetizer of the day and four main courses. The regular menu's appetizers range in price from 70-90 francs and offers six more choices, while the main courses range from 170-190 francs with another six courses. The choices are very delectable, and it is hard to decide. Instead of everything being prepared in similar ways, Tiara shows off his range from flash seared, diced to grilled or cooked in vapor (steamed) both with and without paper. As I was joined by a French investment banker turned VC for lunch, it really provided a chance to see Taira go to work. First up was the Salmon Facon "Tataki," which is flash cooked Salmon, prepared in a delightful vinaigrette dressing. My friend's who dine regularly at Flemings will think of the Tuna dish, as this is in that style, minus the pepper. My dining colleague had the Langoustines, which was prepared in a butter sauce flavored with Asian spices. The presentation was superb and the taste of the Salmon, about as fresh as you can get. Taira really shines on his main courses, as the two we had, plus what was being served to others showed off his diversity and range. The Dorade, a gray fish that you only find in Europe, was grilled and served in a vinegar reduction sauce with "Szecuen" spice and Shitaki mushrooms. It is mouthwatering light, flavorful and filling. The filet de cabillaut (cod fish) was cooked a la vapeur (steamed) and served in a sesame and balsamic vinegar sauce. Taira gets high marks also for a well-chosen wine list. Sure he has the range of Bordeaux's and Burgundies, but his South of France selections from Domaine de Jasson, Chateau Malherbe, wines from Henri Bourgeois in the Loire, like the red cabernet we shared, and other wineries which only dress the best lists in France pair up well with all of his dishes. So if you want the freshest of fresh, with an Asian twist in Paris, check out Taira. You won't be disappointed.
Road Reports 2000, Volume 2 #16 Paris, France Le Cave Gourmand Le Cave Gourmand used to be the home of Eric Frochon, the young hotshot chef who has moved to the Hotel Bristol. Being that his involvement now is limited to ownership and menu development, and that his sous-chef has taken the helm, he the name was changed and is letting the restaurant stand, not on his name but on its own. Located on the Paris outskirts, in the 19th arondissment, La Cave Gourmand has a small wine and gourmet store in the front. There you get a look at the wine and sparklers that are available for you to enjoy. The green and peach colored restaurant is very attractive and modern, showing that the newer places in town are not going retro bistro, they are designing the establishments to reflect the cuisine moderne that has taken hold in Paris and London. Cuisine modern is a blend of traditional French cooking, with a blend of flavors from the far-east, the South Pacific, India, South America and Africa. At Le Cave Gourmand there is one menu at 170 ff. The menu carte is the new idea which was based on the old idea of the plate de jour or fourmula rapide, where the chef decided what the best would be that day and offered it at a set price. The menu comes in three courses, appetizer, entrée and dessert. Each provides three options. This makes it easy for the restaurant to buy fresh every day. It also means the diners get to experience a menu that is seasonally based. The first course was Cannelloni de chevre with basilic and olives over a bed of carpaccio thin tomato in a light provence olive oil. It was as aromatic, light and as mouth tantalizing as you could expect. For the main course breast of chicken that had been marinated in yogurt and Tandoori spices, served over semolina with dried raisins was the choice over the roasted rougette and crayfish in olive oil or the Pot au Feu made from beef and vegetables. Dessert was a truly wonderful pineapple slice that had been marinated in Ali Baba Rhum sauce with a dollop of cream. For wine, I decided to try another 1998 Languedoc that is available in the USA from Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants in Berkeley California. The wine, the Chateau de Lascaux, Les Pierres Argent is the top wine from one of the wineries I visited in 1997. Very young, this wine shows how good the 1998 vintage can be and how fine the wines are that come from the area high above the Pic St. Loup region. It is obvious the wine is largely Syrah and Grenache. Since the vines have been hand picked no longer do you get the so-called field blends of years past. With a big blueberry nose the wine is teasing. It is still a very condensed selection and needs time to open. The Grenache is not tart, but refined and blended well. The raspberry and lilac flavors are evident. This is a big wine which needs a good three to five years to round out, but will age 10-15 years. So if you want to go off the beaten track in Paris, and eat very well, for little money in Paris, take a trip the La Cave Gourmand. You want be sorry.
Road Reports 2000, Volume 2 #17 Paris, France Le Repaire de Cartouche Le Repaire de Cartouche is a traditional Paris Bistro. It is small, jovial and a place where locals, friends and those in-the-know go for lunch or dinner. The menu is full of traditional and modern dishes, but the real winner is the wine list and the wide array of choices by the glass, half bottle and even magnums. With the better than outstanding lunch I was able to sample six wines from various parts of France. What continues to impress are the wines coming out of Corsica. Long viewed as a wine wasteland Corse, as it is called in France, is now turning out some of the best wines from any island in the world. I started with the 1999 Muscat du Cap Corse. By Domaine Leccia. You would have thought it was from Alsace or the Languedoc, it was so varietal perfect. Loaded with cloves, honey, lilacs, licorice, this low acid wine was easy to drink and a great starter. Next up, and I should have had it first, was the 1999 Domaine Gramernon Cotes du Rhone Clarette et Boules (bubbles) Sparkler. Yes, you read correct, a sparkler from the Cotes du Rhone. This light, sparkler showed lots of lemon, orange, orange peel while being quite refreshing, light on the palate, but full bodied on the finish with a nice tart orange ending. 1999 Domaine Leccia Patrimonio. I find myself enjoying and ordering this wine each time I see it. Maybe it's the fact that we don't see Corse wines on lists in the USA at all (except at my house) but the wine continues to impress me. The ripe lemons, crisp wine shows a perfect balance and good acid balance. Flavors of apricots, pears, lavender, spearmint, lemons and hazelnuts are all evident in the very long finish. A real winner. 1998 Yannick Amirault St. Nicholas de Bourgueuil "Le Source" delivers a nice blackberry nose and is served slightly chilled. Flavors of currants and blackberries are very evident. Very charming and most enjoyable. 1999 Quatre Saison Pic St. Loup was a wine that was loaded with herbs, spice and some of that always evident Garrigue fruit. As expected, it was very young and very tight with flavors of blueberry, raspberry and black tea. For lunch, yes I did go there for lunch, I had a absolutely fantastic Carpacio d'Angneau which had shredded Roquette (a form of lettuce that is spicy) and parmesan cheese that all blended together to meld together. The main course was Enterecote de Cerf (venison) with mushrooms and mustard. The strong flavors of the Venison and the Pic St. Loup was a nice pairing, as was the Bourgueuil with the lamb dish. For dessert, roasted figs with chocolate sauce was both rich and tasty. Road Reports 2000 Volume 2, #18 Paris, France What's so great about Paris? Well for one thing, you can so easily go from neighborhood to neighborhood and it is as if you went hundreds of kilometers across France to dine in a different region of the country within hours. Over the past few days I've enjoyed the freshest of fresh seafood at Cap Vernet, dined at a bistrot named Ardoise, where the chef thinks he's still cooking at La Tour Argent, with the only change being the lower prices and the less formal atmosphere, visited the Basque country at Au Bascou, toured the Languedoc by lunching at L' Maison de l'Aubrac and moved to the island of Corse (Corsica) at Paris Main d'Or for dinner, all while sandwiching these meals around a sun drenched formal style meal at Elysee du Vernet, one of Paris' top tables. The wines have been equally impressive, but none more so than at L' Maison de l'Aubrac where more than 300 Languedoc wines reside on the list, to along with the very well chosen Rhone, Rousillion, Bordeuax, Alsace and Provence wines.
Road Reports 2000 Volume 2, # 19 Paris, France Mark this down. One of the next restaurants in Paris to receive the coveted Michelin star is L'Oulette. Long the solo gastronomic outpost in the Bercy district (12th ard.), L'Oulette is the big brother to Bistrot Baracane in central Paris. For years in the Parisians have known about the best kept secret in town. Well, the confidential dining room of the gastronomes and Parisians with the better palates are going to have to make room for the onslaught of new faces. Like the smaller Baracane sibling, the food is simply top notch and the service is flawless. What makes L'Oulette the very deserving candidate for the Michelin Rosette that every chef dreams of, is the combination of two things; the ever evolving and heavenly cooking of co-owner Marcel Baudis; and the rapid explosion of Bercy, as the hottest and most upwardly trendy section to go to in Paris. Since 1997 I have had the good fortune to dine in the relaxed, unrushed comfort that is L'Oulette on three separate occasions, including Valentine's Night in 1998. Each time, the menu has been different, as Baudis likes to present food cuisine du terroir using a "menu de saison" approach. Though certainly there are the outstanding Quercy region staples that match up very well to the exceptional wines from France's Southwest region, what will earn Baudis and longtime partner Alain Fontaine the star, is the cooking and exceedingly polite, modern day approach to being a fine restaurant. Unlike Gaignaire or Eysee du Vernet, where the setting and performance is to formal and stiff, L'Oulette is comfortable, polite and unrushed. As a result, the entire experience is hightened to a pure enjoyment level. Maitre' D Patrick and Baudis' wife keep the front of the house moving in the same fashion as Fontaine, who today was off with his family. No question about the menu or the wine is rebuffed at all, but more importantly, the helpful guidance about the offerings are freely given with great clarity and even in English when needed. The respect of the customer is so great at L'Oulette that when I asked to replace the two Bordeaux wines (white and red) from the planned Menu de Saison (280 ff) with more appropriate and typical wines from the South West, specifically Jurancon and Irouliguy, I was greeted with an absolute "no problem" and what's more, the bottle was left at the table for me to enjoy, without anyone keeping track of the glasses. The food was even better than in 1998. Baudis' deft hand in the kitchen and Fonatine's keen wine selection continues to work well. I started with the little known roséde Floc de Gascogne, a fortified wine that is rarely seen outside of France. A deep pink/red color, the wine is terrific starter for the well flavored and non-typical cooking of the region. Aromas of cherries and black fruit are obvious, but the Pinot Noir like character of the wine is what gives it the delicate taste that makes you wish you had more. Next up was the 1999 Domaine de Bellegared Jurancon Moulliux, a semi dry white wine made from 100 percent Petit Marsang. This is a very lovely wine, that was perfectly paired with the Foie Gras de Canard that comes served with home made jams and jellies. It showed great richness and depth with pure melon, pear and honey flavors. The well-made Foie Gras was duck liver at its very best. A soft easy to enjoy texture with lingering overtones that went so well with the wine. Not to be outdone or outgunned, the 1998 Domaine Brana from Irouliguy red went as well with the simply divine center cut leg of lamb and lamb shank that came with the most robust white bean compote that is blended with ham, garlic, rosemary and thyme. The wine delivered non-stop wild berries, black cherries, tea, blackberry and plums, with a finish of cola, mint and blackberries. But the while the lamb was the star of the meal the bean side dish was sheer pleausure. Talk about country flavors or cooking from the land. Baudis was able to make the beans jump in your mouth with a delicate piquant black pepper spice that was not at all overpowering to the rest of the dish. The lamb was perfectly done. I was not asked how it should be prepared, and there was no reason. Both the meat from the leg and the shank came out perfect with nice juice, deep flavor and a fall apart texture for the shank. The cheese course was on the mark and dessert was roasted figs and apple in a paper-thin crust. Like evers anng else at L'Oulette, it was perfectly prepared. When I was finished a French Roast pot of Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee was served. I don't think it gets much better for 396 ff anywhere in Paris.
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