Ric Einstein reports

You may remember my recent article about McPlonk wines in which I finished up saying, "I am very thankful for the myriad of small producers that turn out high quality wines that are not mass manufactured using industrial techniques." This article will look at some of the challenges facing these brave souls.

At the last official count, there were 1,465 wineries in Australia. Twenty years ago there were about 300 and a mere 10 years ago there were less than half the number we have today, so as you can see there has been an explosive eruption of new wineries in the last decade, (and no doubt this explosion will have been seen in the U.S. too). But the following numbers show how frightening it is for these new producers.

The top four wineries are responsible for 70 percent of production; the top 20 producers hold a staggering 95 percent of the branded wine case output. A simple calculation then shows that you have 1,445 producers producing the final 5 percent of branded case output. From this, you can see how small these producers really are in the scheme of things and more importantly, the biggest challenge is how these wineries are going to be able to sell what they produce so they can stay in business. (My prediction is that many of them won't make it and will fall by the wayside. Some will be taken over by others, some will sell their grapes and some will pull their vines and convert the land to other uses, but that's not what this journal is all about.)

One of the biggest challenges facing the new producer is having to carve out a market niche for themselves.

About 80 percent have cellar door operations, but that still leaves almost 300 without that exposure, and that lack of business exposure could expose them to ruin. Some have been savvy or lucky enough to be discovered by US importers who like their product but even this is not a guaranteed solution. Just ask one small producer in the Barossa area who suddenly found his US agent didn't like (only) one wine they produced and the agent terminate their arrangement. That producer is now looking for alternative ways to sell their wine and not finding it easy.

So what are the small producers up against? Firstly the market is very crowded and it's hard to gain acceptance and retail space when most wine buyers have never heard of your wine. Its also worthwhile bearing in mind the larger companies have many advantages because of their size. Most have good distribution systems with either their own reps or agents in place. In many cases their brands are well known, in some cases they are backed by massive advertising campaigns. Many of these brands are on existing retailers shelves already. Southcorp are even rationalising their brands and eliminating a number of them even though they are well known they are not returning sufficient profit.

The second biggest challenge facing these new producers is to actually make wine that people actually will want to drink more than once. Last week I was invited by one of the top local (boutique hotel) restaurants to help them select two new wines for their extensive wine list.

The first flight was a lineup of 12 Merlots that would all retail for about $15-20. No wines in the lineup came from the top five Oz producers and there would have been no more than about three from the top 20 producers, so we tasted wines from the primarily very small producers. Now let's not mince words, six of the wines were crap and many showed appalling wine-making faults and three were extremely ordinary to say the least. The third best was described as "having almost no flavour but well balanced." The runner up was described as "ok but boring as bat turd." The winner was described as "an inoffensive well balanced crowd pleaser" which came from a small producer and the wine was perfect for their purposes. (They don't want swill on their wine list.)

The next flight was a lineup of 12 Shiraz also in the $15-20 retail price bracket. This lineup was slightly better in that whilst six bottles were still basically swill, the top three bottles were all considered reasonable. The winning selected wine was described as "a well balanced wine with good complexity for the price." It came from one of the micro producers.

On a regular basis a Melbourne wine retailer sends me wines to review, many of them from new micro producers. Bert, the proprietor does this in an endeavour to come up with some new and interesting discoveries for his customers that are reasonably priced and have been judged so by an independent party (me). In most instances I try six wines at a time and the wines are tried completely blind, so there is no influence caused by label or price. The amount of seriously bad wine received is not funny. This task is frequently thought of as diving through a pile of manure to find a diamond.

The truly worrying part is that these wineries actually hope to sell this excrement. It may not be polite to refer to these wines as excrement, but unfortunately that's exactly what many of them are! A lot of box wine is far better; at least most of those don't have glaring faults, hopelessly green unripe tannins, cheap and nasty varnished oak dominating the wine etc etc.

Yes, our savour to McPlonk Wine will come from the small producers, but these small producers have to produce wines that people are going to enjoy drinking or they will go out of business. If they don't produce reasonable wine, then there is no point in having a cellar door or appointing an agent. The wine will not sell. As much as I hate to admit it, most people would rather drink McPlonk wine than badly made or faulty boutique wine.

All contents © copyright 1981-2009 by Robin Garr, www.WineLoversPage.com

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