From our Readers

German 1999 Vintage Tasting
© by Jack Ng

Jack Ng proposed to call this report "A Novice's Impression," but I think it's clear that this wine-loving Cornell University grad student was anything but a novice in his approach to this massive 1999 vintage tasting presented by the German Wine Information Bureau. We're delighted that Jack volunteered to cover this event for Wine Lovers' Page, and I think you will enjoy his report. -- Robin Garr

I am grateful to Robin for letting me ride on Wine Lovers' Page ticket to attend this event. It was an incredible experience --- a rare chance for me to do a horizontal tastings of my favorite wine on such a large scale. It was fun and educational tasting and comparing wines from several producers of the same vineyard in the same vintage; an impossible exercise to do on my own.

The tastings were divided into 2 parts of the room; 3 long tables for wines whose winemakers were not present and 25 individual tables with their estates' representatives.

Knowing that there are more wines than I can possibly taste in a day, I formulated a game plan. I did some research on the represented estates (with my trusty Stuart Pigott's "German Wine Atlas") and picked out a couple notable and favorite ones.

But, alas, on seeing hundreds of bottles of German Rieslings in front of me, I threw out plan A. Though I kept some sense not to try to taste them all, I had definitely exceeded my capability! To a newbie, it was painful but necessary to spit out some of these good stuffs.

After an hour of pouring and spitting, the front of my teeth got so sensitive from all that acid and sugar swishing in and out, I had to push the crackers to the back of my mouth in order to bite. It took me more than 2 hours to work through the three long tables, skipping various wines and taking short crackers and water breaks in between tastings, my nose and palate were tired and I ran out of descriptors for the tastes. I helped myself generously to the crackers and water available when I felt the need and took more than an hour's break for the sumptuous lunch. In the name of finding out how some of the wine paired with the provided buffet lunch, I helped myself to some generous pourings of my favorite. =P (On hindsight, it might have been better for me to take a long break during lunch to recover from fatigue, but hey, it was too tempting...)

Still, I managed to work through all I had planned for initially (and more) and set aside the last hour to grab some of my favorite wines to enjoy (alas, there ain't too many of those left)

Overall, the 1999 vintage capped the excellent run for Germany since '89 a period where the weather has been relatively kind enabling wineries to produce performance had been from good to outstanding. On average, sugar content is higher and acidity lower when compared to the '98s making them very approachable when young. I do not have the experience to tell how these wines would age. However, the QbAs and Kabinetts would do very well with spicy food (Asians such as Thai, Szechuan, Laos, etc, the acids and slight sweetness will add a refreshing touch to these cuisines) and I would serve most of the Spatlese and above with or as desserts.

Tasting notes (extremely long...spread out over 6 hours):

White wines - trocken, Q.b.A.

Mosel Saar Ruwer (MSR)

Schloss Saarstein Riesling trocken, Schloss Saarstein
Imported by: Valckenberg International (VI)
Suggestion retail price (SRP): $13.50
Tart, citrusy, green apples and peaches on the nose

Rheingau:

Robert Weil Riesling trocken, Weingut Robert Weil
Imported by: Cellars International (CI)
SRP: $20.00
White peaches, slight petrol, green apple-skins
(Was excellent with the grilled chicken at lunch.)

Spatlese:
MSR
Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken, Weingut Haus Klosterberg/Markus Molitor
Imported by: Ewald Moseler Selections (EMS)
SRP: $18.00
flowery fragrance, orangey-citrus, mineral finish

White Wines - Halbtrocken, Q.b.A.

MSR

Fritz Haag Riesling, Weingut Fritz Haag
Imported by: CI
SRP: $15.00
Intense flowery, peachy nose, green mangoes, very fruity, mineral finish

Pfalz

Lorenzhofer Riesling halbtrocken, Weingut Karlsmuhle
Imported by: Michael Skurnik Wines (MSW)
SRP: $15.00
Petrol, earthy, lemony tart, off-balance

Kabinett

MSR

Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett haltrocken, Weingut Haus Klosterberg/Markus Molitor
Imported by: EMS
SRP: $13.00
Tart, slightly fruity, soft and quiet...

Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Carl Graff
Imported by: VI
SRP: $9.00
Quiet on the nose, soft white peaches turning to apricot on the finish

White Wines-Lieblich
Q.b.A.

MSR

Richter Estate Riesling, Weingut Max Ferd Richter
Imported by: Longdon Shiverick
SRP: $11.99
Quiet nose, fruity on the palate: peach and apricots, good balance

Willi Haag Riesling, Weingut Willi Haag
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $12.00
Petrol nose and fruity, unbalance with too much sugar residue

Graacher Himmelrich Riesling, Weingut Willi Shaefer
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $15.75
Well-balanced, fruity, wild flowers on the nose, good finish

Kabinett

MSR:

Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Dr. Loosen
Imported by: EMS
SRP: $16.00
Soft apricot nose, very fruity, crisp acid and minerals.

Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett, Moselland Winzengenossenschaft
Imported by: Halby Marketing
SRP: $8.99
Disappointing given the reputation of the vineyard, pretty lame wine

Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Willi Schaefer
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $18.50
Flowery nose, good peaches, good acid-sugar-mineral structure

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Dr. F. Weins-Prum
Imported by: CI
SRP: $17.00
Flowery nose, tart, citrusy, white-fruits, minerals

Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Meulenhof
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $15.00
Light, white peaches, mineral

Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, Weingut J.J. Christoffel
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $17.50
Fruity, good mineral-acid backbones to balance the peaches

Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Karp-Schreiber
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $18.00
Fruity-sweet, not well supported by acids.

Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Max Ferd Richter
Imported by: Langdon-Shiverick
SRP: $15.99
Flowery nose, peachy

Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Willi Haag
Imported by: MSW
SRP $14.00
Peachy, apricot, tinge of sweetness, very ripe fruits

Brauneberger Juffer Riesling-Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Willi Haag
Imported by: MSW
SRP $16.00
Flowery, slight whiff of petrol and peppers, ripe peaches on the palate

Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Alfred Merkelbach
Imported by: MSW
SRP $13.50
Light fruity

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Alfred Merkelbach
Imported by: MSW
SRP $15.00
Dried flowers, peppery, spicy nose, fruity but rather short finish

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett, Weingut J.J. Christoffel
Imported by: MSW
SRP $17.50
Less spices here, soft peaches and apricots, mineral finish

Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Saarstein
Imported by: VI
SRP: $15.50
Soft peachy, elegant fruits and light minerals

Nahe:

Munsterer Kapellenberg Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $15.00
Crisp acides, white fruits, lemony, nice minerally feel

Spatlese

MSR:

Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Reinhold Haart
Imported by: CI
SRP: $32.00
Intense blackberry, slight whiff of petrol, flowery, fruity flavors exploding in the mouth...=) easily one of my favorites

Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Willi Schaefer
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $22.50
Flowery nose, peachy, good acid-sugar balance

Graacher Himmerlreich Riesling Spatlese, Carl Graff
Imported by: VI
SRP: $11.00
Quiet nose, and closed in the palate but has a somewhat lichee-ish finish

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Haus Klosterberg/Markus Molitor
Imported by: EMS
SRP: $20.00
Soft nose, very fruity flavor, ripe apricots

Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Willi Haag
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $21.00
Peppery aroma, sweetish peaches on the palate, seems disjoint

Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Fritz Haag
Imported by: CI
SRP: $27.00
Flowery nose, peaches apricots, tropical fruits, well-balanced

Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese, Carl Graff
Imported by: CI
SRP: $ 10.50
Soft grapey, nothing much going on...

Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese, Weingut J.J. Christoffel
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $21.00
Earthy, peachy, apricots, ripe pineapples, well-balanced

Erdener Pralat Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Dr. F. Weins-Prum
Imported by: CI
SRP: $27.00
Rather quiet nose, very fruity, complex layers of fruits, ripe mangoes, good finish

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese, Carl Graff
Imported by: VI
SRP: $11.50
Flowery, fruity, mineral finish

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese, Weingut J.J. Christoffel
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $21.00
Quiet nose, fruity, minerals on the palate rather closed

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Alfred Merkelbach
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $17.00
Flowery, spicy nose, soft fruits on the palate

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Dr. Loosen
Imported by: EMS
SRP $30.00
Clean palate with intense tropical fruits, good finish

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Monchhof
Imported by: CI
SRP $22.00
White pepper, earthy, layers of fruits, mangoes and ripe apricots finishing

Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Grans-Fassian
Imported by: VI
SRP: $27.50
Whiff of petrol, very ripe peaches, oranges

Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spatlese, Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium
Imported by: Chatham Imports
SRP: $16.99
Grapey nose and palate, well-balanced

Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Carl Loewen
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $21.00
Clean, very fruity, grapey, mouthfilling

Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Karlsmuhle
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $28.50
Petrol-chemical nose, blanaced sugar-acid, honeyish finish

Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Spatlese, Weingut von Hovel
Imported by: CI
SRP: $22.00
Peachy, honey, fruity, good-drinking

Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Spatlese, Schloss Saarstein
Imported by: VI
SRP: $21.50
Light, elegant, fruity, balanced, nice minerals

Rheingau

Robert Weil Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Robert Weil
Imported by: CI
SRP: $35.00
Light nose, honeyish and ripe apricots on the palate, finishing has some hints of barley

Nahe

Munsterer Dautenpflanzer Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Kruger-Rumpf
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $20.00
Flabby, minerally

Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Schafer-Frohlich
Imported by: Wines for Food
SRP: $18.00
Racy acids, acid-sugar-mineral components doesn't feel well integrated

Pfalz:

Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Eugen Muller
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $18.00
Yeasty nose, very fruity, nice

Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese, Weingut Kurt Darting
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $18.50
Soft peachy, believe will go well with fish-dishes and creamy sauce

Auslese
MSR

Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Auslese, Carl Graff
Imported by: VI
SRP: $12.50
Pale light color, berry flavors, minerally, short finish

Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Auslese, Weingut Reinhold Haart
Imported by: CI
SRP: $40.00
Intense fruity, boytritised, very fruity in mouth, complex flavors, minerally, nice long finish, should age well for a long time...

Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Auslese, Weingut Dr Pauly-Bergweiler
Imported by: Preiss Imports
SRP: $46.95
Honeyish, very fruity, dried apricots, great balance

Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese, Weingut Willi Schaefer
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $72.00
Excellent drinking, clean crisp, honeyish, dried peaches, complex layers of flavors, minerals

Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Auslese*, Weingut Haus Klosterberg/Markus Molitor
Imported by: Ewald Moseler Selections
SRP: $30.00
Boytritised nose, rubbery fruits on the palate, finishes well

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*, Weingut Heribert Kerpen
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $47.00
Rubbery, petrol nose, unctuous, flinty finish

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Weingut Dr. Loosen
Imported by: EWS
SRP: $30.00
Ripe peaches, rich honey, complex flavors

Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese, Weingut Dr. Loosen
Imported by: EWS
SRP: $45.00
Soft flowery, rich honey, unctuous, flinty mineral finish

Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese, Weingut Monchhof
Imported by: CI
SRP: $48.00
Spicy, racy acid, flinty minerals, clean fruits, good to drink now

Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese GK, Weingut Grans-Fassain
Imported by: VI
SRP: $53.50
Strong boytritised, very rich-honeyish, syrupy

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese, Weingut Alfred Merkelbach
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $21.50
Lichee-ish nose, spicy, maple syrup, good value!

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese**, Weingut Joh. Hos Christoffel Erben
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $39.00
Dried flowers, spicy, boytritised, palate reminds me of a good baked peach pie, yummy...

Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese GK, Weingut Dr. Loosen
Imported by: EMS
SRP: $ N/A
Rich but not very sticky, good lichee and clean tropical fruits on the palate, good finish

Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Auslese, Weingut Carl Lowewen
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $45.00
Candy, bubblegummy nose, not well integrated

Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Auslese, Weingut Carl Loewen
Imported by: MSW
SRP $51.00/500ml
Candy, bubblegummy nose, slightly better structure but hard to tell the difference between this one and the former.

Oberemmeler Hutte Saar Riesling Auslese, Weingut von Hovel
Imported by: CI
SRP: $33.00
Honeyish, better balance here than the previous two, mineral finish

Moselland-Classic (Ockfener Bockstein) Riesling Auslese, Moselland Wine Company
Imported by: Halby Marketing
SRP: $10.99
Boytritised, herby (reminds me of a Chinese herb, "ling yang" her, grated antelope horns is the best I can describe)

Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Auslese*, Weingut Bert Simon
Imported by: CI
SRP: $32.00
Boytritised, sugarish-peachy, finishes well

Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Auslese, Schloss Saarstein
Imported by: VI
SRP: $20.00/375ml
Elegant ripe mangos, complex, apricot finish

Serriger Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Auslese GK, Schloss Saarstein
Imported by: VI
SRP: $38.00/375ml
Elegant, flowery nose, berry, boytritised

Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese, Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken
Imported by: CI
SRP: $38.00
Clean fruits, ripe peaches, easy-drinking

Nahe

Langenlonsheimer Lohrer Berg Riesling, Weingut Tesch
Imported by: EMS
SRP: $33.00
Good lichee nose and flavors, and rambutan-like sweetness, elegant, very lovely, good drinking

Laubenheimer Karthauser Riesling Auslese, Weingut Tesch
Imported by EMS
SRP: $29.00
Similar characteristics with the previous wine but a little softer, more elegant, good value here

Rheinhessen

Wittmann (Westhofener Morstein) Riesling Auslese, Weingut Wittmann
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $33.50/500ml
Brown sugary, canned fruits

Beerenauslese

Nahe

Laubenheimer St. Remiguisberg Riesling Beerenauslese, Weingut Tesch
Imported by: EMS
SRP: $50.00/375ml
Strong rubbery nose, dried apricots, lichee, boytrised,unctous

Rheinhessen

"Tradition" Beerenauslese, Weingut Louis Guntrum
Imported by: Broadbent Selections
SRP: $26.99/375ml
Austere, rich, grapey

Bechtheimer Heilig-Kreuz Gewurztraminer Beerenauslese, Weingut Kurt Erbeldinger
Imported by: Wines for Food
SRP: $20.00/375ml
Very interesting (I didn't know BA can be made with Gewurz), intense lichee, good balance, excellent for dessert

Wittmann Spatburgunder Beerenauslese (Westhofener Steingrube), Weingut Wittmann
Imported by: MSW
SRP: $38.50/500ml
Salmon color, clean crisp, intense honeyish sweetness, soft tannins

Took a lunch break at this point before proceeding with the winemakers part of the room. I tasted all the wines for a particular winery before moving on to the next so as to compare the differences in vineyards by the same winery. Looking back, I could have worked my way around the room in the order of the classifications instead, hence I am afraid I might have missed some nuances of the QbAs, Kabinett and Spatlese. The sweetness of the Auslese, Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese might have overwhelmed me.

Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt
Represented by: Annegret Reh-Gartner
Imported by: VI

"RK" Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesing
SRP: $12.50
Tart, dry, lemony citrus, needs food

Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett
SRP: $19.50
Fruity, Steely minerals, citrusy

Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett
SRP: $20.00
Yeasty with whiffs of sulphur, crisp, minerally (slate?), elegant, white peaches

Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese
SRP: $25.00
Very fruity: peaches, apricots, minerally (slate?)

Josephshofer Riesling Spatlese
SRP: $25.00
Fruity with peaches, apples, minerally

Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spatlese
SRP: $24.00
Slately, peachy, good balance

Josephsofer Riesling Auslese LGK
SRP: $50.00
Boytritised, elegantly balanced- peaches, acids, apricots and minerals structure

Schloss Johannisberg - VDP
Represented by: Wolfgang Schleicher
Imported by: VI

Schloss Johannisberger Riesling
SRP $17.00
Fruity, racy acid, needs food

Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett
SRP: $21.00
White peaches, racy acidity, well balanced

Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Spatlese
SRP $29.00
Closed nose, orange-citrus acid, fruity, hints of mineral

Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Auslese
SRP: $61.50
Excellent peaches and apricots, mouth-filling, balanced and complex layers of fruits on the palate

Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Eiswein
SRP: $268.50
Raisiny, apricot, clean, extremely rich fruits: exotic tropical fruits, dried pineapples

Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Beerenauslese
SRP: $186.50
Incredibly rich, unctuous, fruits exploding in my mouth, clean, well-integrated, long finish

Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
SRP: $432.50
Brilliant gold in color, clean nose of raisins, exotic fruits, incredibly rich, well-integrated complex layers of fruits.
(Note: This is the wineries' first TBA since my birthyear of 1976. I wonder how it would taste now. TNs anyone?)

Weingut St. Urbans-hof
Represented by: Nik Weis
Imported by: Eber Brothers

St. Urbans-Hof Riesling
SRP: $9.99
Green apples, citrusy, steely minerals, electric acids

Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spatlese
SRP $15.99
Grapefruits, citrusy, peaches, minerals, balanced wine, refreshing effervescence

Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese
SRP: $19.99
Great value for an auslese, dried apricots and peaches, steely minerals, complex flavors

Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Eiswein
SRP: $64.99/375ml
Focused flavors: honey, apricots, peaches, tropical fruits, long finish

C. Von Schubert'schen Schlosskellerei
Represented by: Dr. Carl von Schubert
Imported by: VI

Maximin Grunhauser Riesling
SRP: $16.50
Concentrated fruits, minerally, green apples-acidity, balanced

Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett
SRP: $22.50
Closed, tart, lemon-citrus, some white peaches

Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Spatlese
SRP: $27.00
Lotsa interesting fruits here: Durians!, dried mangoes, exotic, slight whiffs of petrol, good finish, minerally

Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese
SRP: $41.50
Fresh flowers on the nose, very well balanced, peachy, apricot, long finish

Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Eiswein
SRP: $306.00
Closed nose, fruity on the palate: nice peaches, finishing off with apricots, well balanced and integrated acids

Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Beerenauslese
SRP: $257.00
Elegant, apricots, peachy, slight boytritised, slightly syrupy honeyish finish.

Weingut Selbach Oster
Represented by: Johannes Selbach
Imported by: MSW

Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett
SRP: $16.50
Big round, fruity, balanced by green apples, citrus acidity

Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett
SRP: $17.50
White peaches, tropical fruits, minerally, balanced

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese
SRP: $21.75
Peaches, lemon, minerals, excellent for food, good finish

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese
SRP: $22.50
Peachy, apples, very fruity, minerals, good drinking

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese*
SRP $21.75
Ripe peaches, apricots, good sugar-acid balance, firm structure supported by minerals

Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese
SRP: $27.00
Floral nose, honeyish-dried apricots, minerally, good finish

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*
SRP: $38.50
Sweet flora nose, honeyish, dried apricots, minerally

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese**
SRP: $45.00
Rubbery flowers on the nose (weird!), dried apricots, long lichee-ish finish

Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese***
SRP: $40.00/375ml
Very rich, fruity, boytritised, dried tropical fruits: mangoes, pineapples, long finish

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese
SRP: $100/375ml
Boytritised, intense dried fruits, complex, tropical fruits, fatty mouthfill, excellent finish

Phew...this is tough work! =) Hope you liked my first effort. Cheers!