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Illicit Grapes Found in the Douro
© Jason Brandt Lewis
Special to Wine Lovers’ Page
A 40 percent decline in the 2000 harvest in the Portugal´s Douro Valley may have prompted some grape growers and middlemen to illegally transport grapes from outside districts into the Douro.

Under the Denominação de Origem (DO), the Portuguese equivalent of the better known French system of Appellation d´Origine Contrôlée, only grapes grown within the officially demarcated region of the Douro Valley may be used to produce Port wine. Yet as of 3 October 2000, Portuguese authorities have, in separate seizures, impounded some 50 tons of grapes that were in fact grown in the Estremadura, a region on the coast north of Lisbon.

According to reports published in Portuguese newspapers, inspectors from the Casa do Douro surprised one truck in late September carrying 2.5 tons of grapes on their way to Sandeman´s winemaking facility at Cambres. Later the same day, five tons of grapes were seized on the grounds of Quinta do Sol, the Symington´s major new winery at Pinhão. Two days later, two trucks with a combined cargo of 37 tons of "outside" grapes was captured in the Douro town of Régua. Two days after that, another shipment – this one involving six tons – was apprehended. At least three locally well-known middlemen appear to be involved: Manuel Mateus, a resident of São João de Pesqueira; Fernando Columbano of Régua; and Manuel António Saravia. Saravia´s involvement is particularly disturbing as he is the major shareholder in Castelinho Vinhos, S.A., and is involved in both transporting grapes (and wine) on a regular basis.

In a statement issued by the Instituto do Vinho do Porto, IVP inspectors working with inspectors from the Casa do Douro and the Comissão Interprofissional da Região Demarcada do Douro (CIRDD), conducted over 300 inspections and impounded questionable grapes during nine of them. According to the statement, "There have been no producers or Port shippers found guilty of any wrongdoing or illegal transportation of grapes."

One of the most disturbing aspects of these current events, however, is that even the IVP admits "a complete inspection proved that the inspected grapes were all accompanied by legal documents."

George Sandeman, Managing Director of the firm which bears his name, said "We were advised by inspectors from Casa do Douro that a consignment of approximately 800 kilograms of grapes from outside the Region – but properly and legally documented – were being delivered by a farmer. Thankfully, due to this quick action by the inspectors, the fraud was identified and the grapes were not accepted at the winery. Based upon this incidence we asked for more inspectors and increased vigilance." He concluded, "It is very sad that a few individuals would put personal gain over the long established reputation of Porto wine and the Douro."

A spokesperson for the Symington Group also denied any wrongdoing but had no explanation for the fact a truck loaded with illegal grapes entered Quinta do Sol, saying he suspected that the driver attempted to unload them just "to see if he would be caught." The Symington Group controls some 18 percent of the overall Port market with their seven brands (Dow´s, Gould Campbell, Graham´s, Quarles Harris, Smith Woodhouse, Warre´s – all of which are, at least in part, produced at Quinta do Sol – and the independent Quinta do Vesúvio).

Meanwhile, David Campbell of Premium Port Works in California, the Symington´s major U.S. importer, has said this "report is totally inaccurate" but failed to elaborate further.

Oct. 13, 2000

Paul Symington

In reply to your concerns about the importation of illegal grapes into the Douro region, this is obviously something that worries us a great deal as well. However as you may know, the Douro produces each year some 220,000 pipes of wine of which only about 140,000 are allowed to be made into Port (on the basis of the best vineyards making the Port, the remainder making table wine). So normally there is a significant excess of grapes in the region, and therefore no incentive to import from outside the region.

This year was very exceptional with dramatic falls in yields (down in some cases by up to 40 to 50%), resulting in lack of grapes for Port. Hence the incentive for the dishonest to try to bring in grapes from outside. The authorities were aware of this and increased their controls.

So this year cannot be taken as a normal year. That is not to say that the (I hope) few illegal grapes that did get through are acceptable in any way whatsoever. There is now the need for careful analysis of the situation and I know that the President of the IVP is looking into this as a top priority. I have spoken to him personally on this issue. The industry already has some of the tightest controls of any wine in the world. I think that you can look forward to seeing these tightened even further and the penalties for breaking the laws made extremely severe.

The IVP is the official body who should respond to these concerns and implement whatever measure they consider appropriate. I know they are addressing this.

Yours sincerely,
Paul Symington
19 October 2000

The Symington Family Port Companies

The recent Vintage in the Douro Valley produced major shortfalls in yields compared with a normal year and some people were tempted to try to import and sell grapes illegally from outside the Demarcated Port Region. As a result some totally misleading reports appeared in the Portuguese press which insinuated that one of our port companies was involved in purchasing some of these grapes. These reports are completely untrue and on 13 October The Port Wine Institute issued a statement: "No Producers or Port Shippers have been found guilty of any wrongdoing, or illegal transportation of grapes".

Collectively our port companies are the largest buyers of premium quality grapes in the Douro. These complement grapes from our own vineyards. We buy grapes from 1,680 farmers, all of whom are selected for their quality and their grapes must arrive at our wineries with the correct legal documentation confirming their provenance. It is humanly impossible for us to have members of our staff in each of these 1,680 vineyards during picking and then to accompany them to our wineries. Nor are we allowed to intercept or stop grapes on the public highway. Verification can only be done inside our winery. Apart from our own controls, we rely on the Government authorities to guarantee that the rules are being obeyed and on the honesty of our farmers.

If farmers have the correct documentation, and the grapes are of the approved varieties, it is almost impossible for the recipient to discover a fraud. This year the authorities caught some trucks from outside the region and we assume that they will be prosecuted according to the law. The Government Inspectors are in place precisely to ensure that a supplier who is transporting illegal grapes is not defrauding the buyer.

There is absolutely no question of our involvement in this. We were the subject of a few fraudulent attempts by some people, holding the correct documents, to supply us with grapes from outside the region. The authorities have confirmed this. Immediately following the first incident, we sent a letter to The Port Wine Institute requesting that they put teams of inspectors on a 24 hour basis in both our main wineries for the remainder of the harvest. The reply was that there was no necessity as they were fully confident that we had no involvement in any wrongdoing.

There is no truth whatsoever in the veiled allegation that we have purchased or attempted to purchase any illegal grapes. We welcome the tightest possible control on all aspects of Port production and support the immediate and severe prosecution of any wrongdoing. Our wineries are open for inspection 24 hours a day.

We have built a reputation for integrity in the Port Trade which is second to none. We would never put this at risk under any circumstances.

Toby Wallis for
Paul Symington
Oporto
16 October 2000

The House of Sandeman

We were advised by inspectors from Casa do Douro that a consignment of approximately 800Kgs of grapes from outside the Region - but properly and legally documented - were being delivered by a farmer.

Thankfully, due to this quick action by the Inspectors, the fraud was identified and the grapes were not accepted at the winery.

Based on this incidence we asked for more Inspectors and increased vigilance.

It is very sad that a few individuals would put personal gain over the long established reputation of Porto wine and the Douro.

All the best

George Sandeman
(E-mailed by Ligia Marques)

Instituto do Vinho do Porto

IVP Statement

In the face of several incomplete communications regarding the control of the Porto wine harvest 2000 in the Douro Region, the Instituto do Vinho do Porto (IVP) confirms that there have been no Producers or Port Shippers found guilty of any wrongdoing, or illegal transportation of grapes.

The 2000 harvest has been uncharacteristically small, causing much concern to smaller growers who found themselves without the usual crop of grapes.

With this in mind Inspectors from the IVP, working with Inspectors from Casa do Douro and CIRDD (Comissão Interprofissional da Região Demarcada do Douro) were especially attentive to controlling the origins of grapes in order to guarantee that they came from within the region.

All grapes authorized for use in the making of Porto wine must be accompanied by legal documents confirming the Quinta (farm) from which they originated.

During the 3 weeks Harvest period there were more than 300 inspections of grapes documents and wineries by inspectors from the IVP and cooperating Government agencies. In 9 occasions the Inspectors ascertained that there was some form of noncompliance and the grapes were impounded.

Unfortunately, media coverage in the Portuguese press mentioned the names of several Port Houses, but failed to mention that a complete inspection proved that the inspected grapes were all accompanied by legal documents at those houses.

The Douro Region is the oldest demarcated wine growing region in the world, dating back to 1756. The uniqueness of its "terroir", climatic characteristics and viticulture make it the only region in the world that can produce Porto wine.

Since its delimitation in the 18th century, very strict legislation and controls have been approved and implemented to insure both the quality and genuineness of Port wine, as well as to prevent fraud.

The IVP is a government organization whose primary purpose is to protect and ensure the integrity of Port wine, and has a long tradition of diligence in its pursuit of this goal. It has often been cited an example of an effective means to protect the integrity of a viticultural appellation.

Today, in large part as a result of the efforts of the IVP, Porto wine is recognized as one of the most special wines of the world. Its good name and reputation are the work of all involved in its production, making and certification but, most of all, derives from the confidence and recognition millions of Port wine lovers worldwide have in its quality.

To make sure that you by a true Porto wine, fully certified and by the IVP as being “appelation controlée” PORTO, you should check the neck of the bottle for the IVP seal of Guarantee. Then choose the brand of your preference –and enjoy Porto wine with full confidence.

For further information, please contact Port Wine Institute by phone 351 222071602/6 (e-mail ivp@mail.ivp.pt.)