The year's best wine values

QPR 2006

Every New Year's Day, I go through all my databases of wine-tasting reports, sorting out the best wines and best values and looking for signs of developing trends and issues.

Sadly, particularly from the standpoint of those of us who insist on quality in wine but also seek value, the primary trend that I noticed at the end of 2004 continued unabated in 2005: Prices of good wines continue to rise, and the "floor price" for wines that most enthusiasts would consider acceptable is also going up.

Twelve months ago today, looking back over the previous year, I warned, "To be blunt, the days of excellent wine for $10 or less are fading." A year later, it appears that the realm of really good single-digit wine is not merely faded but has just about gone. Even with my focus on "affordable wines of value," only 12 of the hundreds wines that I tasted during 2005 came at retail price tags below $10, fewer than half of the 26 under-$10 bargains that I had reported in 2004.

Nor are there any more candidates for the low-price crown among my hundreds of unpublished notes, which included wines sampled in trade tastings, wine tours, social and restaurant settings and the not-inconsiderable body of notes considered for publication but passed over because the wines simply weren't interesting enough to tell you about.

What's at the root of the rising-price trend? It's not as easy to point to a single factor as it was last year when the effects of a couple of years of the strengthening Euro against the U.S. dollar came home to roost at the same time as a world wine "glut" began to abate. I'd guess that we're seeing a combination of the lingering effect of those factors, along with market pressure driven at least in part by popular wine-related movies like Sideways and Mondovino, which lured new consumers into the fine-wine market.

Also, in many cities, including Louisville, where I buy most of my wine for review, we're seeing the entry of new, excellent wine shops that boast interesting inventories and knowledgeable staff but that frankly seek more of an upscale market than the discount trade. There's no question that a significant share of my own wine buying has shifted to these shops, lured by very interesting wines that, unfortunately, run closer to the middle teens and twenties than the single-digit range.

Bargain-hunting readers needn't fear that I'll abandon my commitment to finding the "sweet spot" between quality and affordable values, and I hope we'll never see a time when the under-$10 niche disappears completely. But it's getting more and more difficult to find them, and you have to kiss more and more frogs in order to discover the occasional princess.

My final report on 2005 singles out 62 wines that achieved my top rating for "QPR," the wine-geek term for "Quality-Price Ratio," ranging in price from $8.49 (for an Argentine Malbec) to $47.99 (for a great Bordeaux producer's "second label" in the outstanding 2000 vintage).

Interested in a few statistics? France led the way, both overall and in the budget category, with 21 wines overall - exactly one-third of the total - and nine of the 23 wines under $12. Italy ranked second with 16 value wines (but only 3 under $12), barely edging out California (14 wines) overall; California, however, showed more strength in the low-cost category with six under $12. The rest of the value winners were widely scattered, including Spain (3), Argentina (2), and Australia, Canada, Germany, Lebanon, Madeira and Portugal making the list with 1 entry each.

Broken out by price, we find 11 wines over $25, 28 in the $12-$25 range and, as noted, 23 under $12.

Curiously, three of the under-$12 wines come from the same producer, Laurel Glen, with its 2002 and 2003 California "REDS" blend and its excellent 2003 "Terra Rosa" Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina, all $9.99, a glowing testament to winery owner/winemaker Patrick Campbell's lasting commitment to quality and value.

Here are the best-value wines that I tasted during 2005, ranked in order of the actual retail price that I paid. You may click each link to view a more detailed tasting note in our standard "shelf-hanger" format. In virtually all instances, I purchased these wines from retail shops in and around Louisville, Ky. For your shopping convenience, I have added specific links for each wine to the databases at Wine-Searcher.com to help you compare prices and check availability at selected vendors online.

Wines retailing for more than $25
(Most of these wines were reviewed in my Wine Advisor Premium Edition.)

Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 2000 Margaux (France), $46.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Broadbent Madeira 10 Years Old Malmsey (Madeira), $44.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Chateau de la Gardine 2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (France), $44.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Domaine Weinbach 2001 Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Cuvée Laurence (France), $40. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
E. Guigal 2000 Hermitage Blanc (France), $37.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Clos Pepe Estate 2003 Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir (California), $37. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Altesino 2000 Alte d'Altesi Toscana (Italy), $36.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Walter Hansel 2002 Hansel Family Vineyards Russian River Valley Chardonnay (California), $36. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Domaine Grand Veneur 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France), $30.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Chateau Musar 1996 Bekaa Valley white (Lebanon), $30. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Cims de Porrera 2000 "Colanes" Priorat (Spain), $26. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)

Wines retailing for $12 to $25

Cave de Saint-Désirat 1995 Saint-Joseph Cuvée Côte-Diane (France), $25. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Livio Felluga 2001 Colli Orentali del Friuli Tocai Friulano (Italy), $24.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
St. Supery 2000 Napa Valley Merlot (California), $24. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Domaine Leon Barral 2001 Faugères Jadis (France), $19.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Nalle 2002 Sonoma County Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel (California), $19.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Galli & Broccatelli 1998 Montefalco Sagrantino (Italy), $18.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Noval 1998 Unfiltered Late Bottled Vintage Porto (Portugal), $18.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Bottega Vinaia 2001 Trentino Lagrein (Italy), $17.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Fattoria Laila 2002 Rosso Piceno (Italy), $17. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Ravenswood 2002 Sonoma County "Icon" Syrah (California), $16.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Domaine Catherine le Goeuil 2001 Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne "Les Beauchières" (France), $16.49. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Bortolotti Spumanti Prosecco Valdobbiadene Extra Dry (Italy), $16. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Feudi San Gregorio 2002 Falanghina Sannio (Italy), $15.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Domaine Grand Veneur 2003 Cotes du Rhône Villages "Les Champauvins" (France), $15.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
François Cazin 1997 Cour-Cheverny "Le Petit Chambord" Cuvee Renaissance (France), $15. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Nicolis Angelo e Figli 2003 Valpolicella Classico (Italy), $15. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Valdinera 2003 Roero Arneis (Italy), $15. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Carpineto 2003 "Dogajolo" Toscano Rosso (Italy), $14.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Domaine de l'Oratoire St. Martin 2000 Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Cairanne "Cuvée Prestige" (France), $14.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Domaine des Vieilles Pierres 2002 Mâcon-Vergisson (France), $14.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Edmunds St. John 2002 Paso Robles "Blonk!" (California), $14. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Terra di Lavoro 2003 "Villa Carafa" Campi Flegrei Falanghina (Italy), $14. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Plantagenet 2003 Mount Barker Riesling (Australia), $13.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Cantine Ceci 2004 "La Luna" Lambrusco Emilia (Italy), $13.99) (Not available on Wine-Searcher.com)
Chateau des Charmes 2003 St. Davids Bench Vineyard Niagara Peninsula VQA "Droit" Gamay Noir (Canada), $13.50. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Avila Winery 2001 Santa Barbara County "Cote d'Avila" (California), $13. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Feudi San Gregorio 2002 Greco di Tufo (Italy), $12.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Cartlidge & Browne 2004 California Pinot Noir (California), $12.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)

Wines retailing for $12 or less

Barbadillo non-vintage Oloroso Sherry "Full Dry" (Spain), $11.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Bruno Verdi 2004 "Sangue di Giuda" "Paradiso" Oltrepò Pavese (Italy), $11.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Cartlidge & Browne 2003 California Pinot Noir (California), $11.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Clos Roche Blanche 2004 Touraine Pineau d'Aunis Rosé (France), $11.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
M. Chapoutier 2002 Belleruche Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc (France), $11.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Selbach 2002 "Riesling Dry" (Germany), $11.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Zardetto Prosecco Brut (Italy), $11.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Botromagno 2003 Gravina (Italy), $10.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Peachy Canyon Winery 2002 Paso Robles "Incredible Red" Bin 115 Zinfandel (California), $10.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Vinum Cellars 2004 "CNW Chard-No-Way" Wilson Vineyards Clarksburg Chenin Blanc (California), $10.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Réserve Grand Veneur 2003 Côtes du Rhône (France), $10.49. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
André-Michel Brégeon 2002 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (France), $9.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Chateau du Donjon 2002 "Grande Tradition" Minervois (France), $9.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Domaine de Fondrèche 2003 Côtes du Ventoux "Instant" rosé (France), $9.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
E. Guigal 2002 Côtes du Rhône Blanc (France), $9.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Laurel Glen 2003 "Reds" Lodi Red Wine (California), $9.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Laurel Glen 2002 REDS California Red Wine (California), $9.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Laurel Glen 2003 "Terra Rosa" Mendoza Malbec (Argentina), $9.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Selby 2003 Sonoma County Rosé of Syrah (California), $9.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Three Thieves 2003 Tempranillo (Spain), $9.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Chateau de Paraza 2002 Minervois "Cuvee Speciale" (France), $8.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Hugues Beaulieu 2003 Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet (France), $8.99. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)
Bodegas Norton 2003 Mendoza Malbec (Argentina), $8.49. (Find it on Wine-Searcher.com)


To submit your personal QPR favorites, post them as a tasting note on our online WineLovers Discussion Group.

Robin Garr's best value wines of 2005

Robin Garr's best value wines of 2004

Robin Garr's best value wines of 2003

Robin Garr's best value wines of 2002

Best value wines of 2001

Best wines over $12 of 2001

QPR picks for 2000

 

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