Sues Vinous Passion

Pinot Noir - suited to the 'terroir'
© by Sue Courtney

Sue Courtney's map highlights the villages in New Zealand's Central Otago region, which is gaining attention as a source of first-rate Pinot Noir.

Is Pinot Noir fussy? Is Pinot Noir fickle? Is Pinot Noir pernickety? No way, José.

Someone coined the phrases and every wine writer across the globe seems to have picked them up. But let's blow that myth right now.

Pinot Noir is like any other grape. All that's required is the essential ingredients - clones that suit the soil, a cool temperate climate that is not too harsh in its extremes, a viticulturist who carefully tends the vines throughout their life cycle and a winemaker whose passion is to make great pinot noir.

And the place where the first two criteria are well satisfied is the South Island of New Zealand, where it is all go, go, go with the enthusiasm and quality of the human input.

Pinot Noir is the most planted red grape variety in New Zealand and the growth of the variety is rising at an exponential rate. Statistics, for the year ended June 2000, show a 30.5 percent increase in the production of pinot noir over the previous year alone. And this figure will continue to rise as the frenzy of planting sees new vines bearing fruit in the years ahead.

The Pinot Noir from Waipara in the North Canterbury region of the South Island is amongst the best and especially that made by Pegasus Bay winemakers Matthew Donaldson and Lynette Hudson, whom I regard as the super rock stars of Pinot winemaking. Their Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir 1998 is one of the most superb I've ever tasted from this country - just think of every superlative and then add more.

But there are plenty of up and coming, soon to be super stars, eager to push Pegasus Bay off the pedestal I have placed it on. And the push is coming from Central Otago, the new dream region of New Zealand winemaking, where Pinot Noir is the preferred grape of most, if not all growers, accounting for 65 percent of the region's planting.

Pinot Noir relishes Central and quality wines are emerging from every sub region. Take the middle point as the town of Cromwell and you find vineyards close by in Bannockburn, as well as in Lowburn and Wanaka to the north, Alexandra to the south and towards Queenstown to the west.

Drive along any road to these locations as well as northeast to Bendigo and you will see kilometre after kilometre of new vineyards already planted or in the making.

It's not surprising then, that Central Otago is the fastest growing vineyard area in New Zealand and, according to a HortResearch report, land planted in grapes has increased by 400 percent in the past two years. But the industry in Central is tiny. The Otago Wine Cellar (www.otagowine.com) in newsletter 15, May 2000, reports 71 vineyards for 23 wineries covering only 520 hectares. That means the average site is a tiny 7 hectares.

As more and more come to chase Otago gold, predictions are that plantings will increase by more than 1000 hectares in the near forseeable future.

Felton Road was the first of the Central pinots to be noted by influential wine critic Robert Parker, which means the wines are now snapped up quickly on release. These wines are good, very good but expect to pay in the region of NZ$36 - $40 for the ordinary release and NZ$47 - $50 for the premium Block 3 and the new Block 5, while these wines may sell for in excess of US$50 in the US.

Felton Road is not the only producer of top quality wines. And the others usually cost under $NZ35 except for 'reserve' bottlings.

Amongst my favourites are those of Gibbston Valley winemaker, Grant Taylor, who also produces his own label, Valli, and vints for several others including the Mt Edward wines of Central pioneer, Alan Brady.

Quartz Reef is the personal label of Rudi Bauer, who took the responsibility of several labels in 1998 at the Central Otago Wine Company based in Cromwell. Dean Shaw is the winemaker at COWCo now, with film star Sam Neill's Two Paddocks amongst the labels entrusted to his care. Shaw made the award winning Black Ridge Pinot Noir 1998 before moving to COWCo in 1999 to replace Bauer, who moved next door to concentrate on his own wines and those of Peregrine and Hays Lake.

And now there's Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir 1999, the latest sensation from Central to pass my lips. The name, like many others in the region, is taken from a geographical feature - a 1282m peak in the Carrick Ranges just west of the Bannockburn vineyards from where the pinot was grown. Mt Difficulty plans to build their winery in Felton Road, close by the established winery of the same name.

I love the expressions of Pinot produced from Central, from the rich velvety blockbusters mentioned above to the more reasonably priced delicate cherry and truffle flavoured wines of William Hill, Springvale and Leaning Rock in the Alexandra sub-region.

As the Pinot phenomenon takes off, it is not just Central Otago where the variety is taking hold. Further north, at the top of the South Island is Marlborough, the region known best for Sauvignon Blanc. Marlborough, a long time producer of Pinot for sparkling wines, is producing more and more quality Pinot Noir still red wines. And it is the factors mentioned earlier that are making the difference as viticulturists and winemakers hone their skills.

From Marlborough I've found wines that prove Pinot doesn't have to be expensive. The debut Selaks Drylands Marlborough Pinot Noir 1999 is the classic example with rich, ripe fruit producing flavours to rival the best. Stoneleigh Pinot Noir 1999 is another good wine where the quality to price ratio excels for the variety. Both these wines retail for under NZ$20.

And then there are the Marlborough stars - Wither Hills, Cloudy Bay, Seresin and Fromm to name a few. But these wines are not cheap, ranging from NZ$30 to NZ$50 for the current release.

So what's happening in the lower North Island area of Wairarapa and in particular Martinborough, the wine growing region that astounded the Brits with its Burgundian-like Pinot, with its established names like Ata Rangi, Dry River, Martinborough Vineyards, Palliser Estate and Te Kairanga alongside newer producers such as Margrain and Voss. I can't fathom much interest in this region right now. The wine is expensive for my income, mostly over NZ$30 a bottle and some well over NZ$40. Much of the wine is exported to willing buyers overseas and what is left is quickly purchased by mail order customers or in retail at ridiculously high prices.

There are very few new names coming out of the region except for those with miniscule quantities. That could be because most available land on the favoured Martinborough Terrace was planted long ago and while new vineyards are being established in the next valley to the east, they are not expecting their first vintage until 2002. However, with names like Larry McKenna (ex Martinborough Vineyards) who has planted his Escarpment Vineyard here and Steve Smith MW who has hectares and hectares planted for Craggy Range, it is something to look forward to with interest.

With this in mind, I am not surprised that Martinborough is facing stiff competition from the southern newcomers. And why not, when wines like the cult Dry River are sold out within moments of release. For years I bought Dry River Pinot Noir 'en primeur' at a pre-release price, then I missed out getting an allocation of the 1998 vintage. So I thought, rather than pay NZ$50-plus for the normal release, I'd try something else.

That's when I discovered Pegasus Bay and the seductive pinot noirs of the South. And what a taste sensation this discovery has been.

Tasting Notes - My top four New Zealand pinots of 2000

Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir 1998 - Waipara, North Canterbury, NZ. About NZ$45.
This is New Zealand pinot noir at its best - in fact it is one of the most superb I've ever tasted from this country - just think of every superlative and then add more. The aromas are subdued with countryside berry scents, a whiff of smoke and a little black cherry but put it in your mouth and, oh my god, it seems to have everything. It's earthy, truffley, mushroomy and yeasty with black cherry, plum, blood peaches, stewed tamarillo and savoury characters of honey bacon and subtle spices like orange with cloves and cardamon along with a touch of leather, a whiff of feral smokiness and the richness of chocolatey oak. And all the while the overriding sweet fruit and the silky tannins combine in a softly feminine and seductive harmony. It's totally gorgeous and a wine that will continue to blossom for the next couple of years then offer delicious drinking for many years to come.

Dry River Pinot Noir 1999 - Martinborough, NZ. About NZ$55
Missing out on the 1998 vintage, I relented with the 1999 when I tasted this superb wine.
It is wildly aromatic - wild flowers, wild grasses, wild fruits of the forest and the mossy earth they grow in. Lashings of varnishy oak are totally in harmony with black cherries, raspberries and richly concentrated flavours of violets, truffles and yeasty biscuits. There's terrific fruit tannins, fruit structure and awesome fruit concentration, a sweet tartness, a fusion of savoury things, while spicy oak plays in the background with the lively acid tingling a chime or two. This is just the most excellent wine with the most incredible length, which has cherries and truffles lingering on the finish. While deliciously approachable at this early stage of its life, cellaring for 2 or 3 years or more will reward, I'm sure.

Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir 1999 - Bannockburn, Central Otago, NZ. About NZ$34
Vibrant and rich and deep and dense in colour with crimson hues abounding while the aromas are full of cherries, smoky oak and savoury things. In the palate it's ripe, round and weighty, with a touch of caramel toffee appearing at first. Spicy berry fruits, hints of tamarillo and a touch of acidity balance out with sweet fruits of the forest and a lashing of savoury and spice. The smoky oak and soft velvet-like tannins are sensual and smooth. As the wine lingers, a chocolate complexity develops and macerated cherry flavours dominate the finish. This wine is just so gorgeous and enjoyable - the mouth begs for more.

Selaks Drylands Winemakers Reserve Pinot Noir 1999 - Marlborough, NZ. About NZ$16.
Vibrant purple tinges in the cherry red colour with inviting 'pinot' scents of cherry, fruit cake and spice. A very young wine with a spicy oak influence. Hints of bacon, hints of tamarillo and heaps of spice and flavour. Herbs abound. A wine that gives 'warm fuzzies' and makes you wonder why others are twice the price. This has been delicious drinking throughout the year. Alas, it's all but gone. This ones a oncer, I'm told. The fruit from this vineyard was available so the wine was made and those who took advantage of the wine when it was on sale here in NZ were in luck, for wines of this quality rarely come at the giveaway price.

Footnote: Pinot lovers have the chance to mingle with pinot celebrities from around the world at Pinot Noir 2001 in Wellington, New Zealand at the end of January 2001. Keynote speaker is Jancis Robinson MW, while other guests include Robert Drouhin and Jean-Pierre de Smet (France), Stephen Cary and David Adelsheim (Oregon), Jim Clendenen and David Graves (California) and James Halliday (Australia). See the Pinot Noir 2001 web site for more information.