Sues Vinous Passion

A New Zealand Christmas in the Sun
© by Sue Courtney

Pohutukawa (Metrosideros excelsa), also known as the New Zealand Christmas Tree, bursts into fiery bloom during the summery holiday season.

When I was a child all the Christmas picture books had Santa Claus leaving his snow-covered house at the North Pole and arriving on the roof of a snow-capped house in his jingly sleigh pulled by his trusty reindeer, with Rudolph in the lead of course.

"But it's summer, we haven't any snow and Santa will be so hot in that suit", I lamented. My Dad was great at telling stories. "Santa has a summer suit", he said. "It's very light. And we'll leave out a nice bottle of cold beer and a piece of Christmas Cake to refresh him."

Santa would duly arrive, our stockings would be filled to the brim and of course the beer and food had disappeared with not even a crumb left on the plate.

After excitedly opening presents with my sisters and brother, we'd go to Church for the Christmas service, then we'd run down to the beach (about 200 metres away) to try out the new beach towel, bathing suit, bucket and spade, water toy or whatever fantastic new beach present we'd received.

Then there was Christmas lunch. A huge hot meal in the middle of a hot day, lamb usually but chicken for a treat. Followed by hot Christmas pudding with all the trimmings. Everyone ate so much, they just blobbed out afterwards, totally wasted. Then it was time to do it all again - at dinner.

I'm glad our family came to their senses and now the Christmas feast is suited to the climate. This year we'll be off to the beach for a picnic. No doubt we will see Santa arrive on water skis or drop out of the sky by parachute.

Here are my contributions to this year's Festive Feast. Just about everything can be prepared the night before, so there is no slaving over a hot oven on Christmas Day.

I'll be taking:

• Strawberries
• Rolled and stuffed turkey breast
• Tossed green salad with tangelo vinaigrette
• Ten herb potato salad
• Summer berry rosé jelly

The Recipes

Strawberries
No preparation required except to obtain the freshest sweetest strawberries possible. The green stems look Christmassy and can be used as a 'handle' when enjoying later with the wine.

Rolled and Stuffed Turkey Breast
Turkey was never the traditional food when I was young, but it is fairly accessible now. A boned turkey breast can be stuffed and rolled and baked in the oven in the cool of the evening the night before. My favourite stuffing is based on an Annabel Langbein recipe from Cuisine Magazine Issue 11 October/November 1988.

Soak 200 grams of dried apricots until plump in a 1/4 cup of orange flavoured liqueur.
Saute half a finely diced onion in butter until tender. Stir in 2 cups of fresh breadcrumbs (wholemeal if you prefer) 1 cup of toasted and chopped macadamia nuts, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves and 1/2 teaspoon dry ginger. Then the apricots, which have been chopped into tiny pieces, together with the juices they soaked in. Roll and tie the breast. Bake in a moderate oven for about an hour, until cooked. Brush the turkey breast with butter before and during cooking. When cooked, take out and stand on a rack to cool. Refrigerate overnight and slice at the picnic.

Tossed Salad Greens with Tangelo Vinaigrette
I've been growing different varieties of lettuce on pots on my deck. This ensures they receive water on a regular basis. Pick some fresh leaves from the pots and combine with some spicy mesclun leaves and a few sprigs of garden mint. Wash and dry in the lettuce spinner. Peel a tangelo orange and remove all the pith. (I use tangelo because that is what I have in my garden, but any orange will do). Cut the segments into pieces and add to the leaves. Just prior to serving, dress with tangelo vinaigrette that has been prepared in advance.

Summer Berry Rosé Jelly
This jelly, made with a Rosé wine and fresh summer berries, is one of my newfound favourites. In season now are cherries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries and strawberries. I'll choose a wine such as the Esk Valley Merlot Rosé from the 2000 vintage in Hawkes Bay. Its beautiful rose colour is perfect for this dessert, which is based on one I saw in 'The Complete Book of Salads' by Cynthia Scheer (Ortho Books).

You need enough gelatine to set 600ml (1 pint) of liquid. (Check the instructions on the packet). In a bowl mix the gelatine and 2 tablespoons of sugar. Add 3/4 cup of boiling water and stir until gelatine is completely dissolved. Stir in 1 1/4 cups of the wine. Refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until starting to set. Now add the 2 cups of mixed berries but be sure to remove the stones from the cherries first. Pour into a decorative mould and refrigerate until firm. When serving, decorate with more of the fresh fruits and serve with a Crème Fraîche. I buy this ready-made from the supermarket.

At the Picnic

This year I'd like to start with the Wimbledon favourite, Strawberries and Champagne, but most likely we'll open a New Zealand bubbly instead. The new premium release by Montana is the Lindauer Grandeur (about NZ$35-$40) and it is certainly one of the most delicious NZ sparkling wines I have ever tasted as well as being an exquisite combination with fresh strawberries. It is a blend of 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay from several vintages back to 1991 with 90% of the fruit from Marlborough, the rest from Hawkes Bay. When the froth subsides, creamy yeasty, freshly baked lemon fruitcake scents are followed by a rich and full mouthful of a very fine creamy textured wine with flavours at first of bread and toast then citrus and nectarine. Then there's a touch of lively but subtle spice (nutmeg comes to mind) lingering on the sweetish finish, the flavours dancing on the palate for an exceptionally long time.

For the main course I recommend two rieslings and a chardonnay

Giesen Canterbury Riesling 2000 (NZ$13 - $15). With inviting aromas of summer flowers and slightly sweet flavours of zingy citrus, apples and fleshy stonefruits, this deliciously fruity wine will marry well with the citrus orange flavours in the turkey stuffing and in the salad.. Served chilled it will be perfect in the middle of the day.

Pegasus Bay "Aria" Riesling 1999 (NZ$22-25). This is one of my personal favourites and a treat at any time, especially a Christmas lunch in the sun. It is a late picked style with delightful honey suckle aromas and powerful flavours of citrus, peach, apricot and nectarine with honey, spices, herbs and citrus zest. The succulent sweetness is masterfully counterbalanced with the crisp, fresh acidity of limes, while a flavour of orange zest lingers on after the wine has been swallowed. There is a lot going on in this wine that will match all the foods I have suggested.

Grove Mill Marlborough Chardonnay 1999 (NZ$ 21-$23). Everyone loves chardonnay and this delicious, yet elegant wine is a crowd pleaser. I know because it disappeared quickly when I took it to a 'do' last week. It has been matured in a combination of French oak (for 14 months) and stainless steel and is full and flavoursome with a subtle oak and a nutty influence over citrus and stone fruits. The flavours will match well to the nuts and bread in the turkey stuffing.

Have a Merry Christmas, everyone.

Dec. 22, 2000