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Friday, Aug. 24: Lunch at Kerrytown Bistro
Ogier and O'Keefe
Sean O'Keefe (right) talks about his wine while Stephane Ogier (green shirt at left) waits his turn.
Billed as "The Son Also Raises - Grapes!", this Friday lunch - a new addition to this year's MoCool event list, featured two guest speakers: Stephane Ogier, from Domaine Ogier in Cote-Rotie, and Michigan winemaker Sean O'Keefe of Chateau Grand Traverse. Both young men (Ogier is 24, O'Keefe 31) are rising wine makers who work for their fathers at their own family wineries. They told us their stories and shared some of their wines:

Chateau Grand Traverse 1998 Old Mission Peninsula Whole Cluster Johannisberg Riesling - Pale straw. Good clean white fruit and a mineral edge; just off-dry with steely acidity to balance. Excellent Riesling, fine with a lightly curried lentil salad.

Michel Ogier 1998 "La Rosine" Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah - From a vineyard adjacent to Cote-Rotie but outside the appellation, this qualifies only for the Vin de Pays designation, but it could have fooled me with its Cote-Rotie-like character. Dark ruby; peppery, smoky black fruit, ripe and structured. Excellent with lamb shanks.

Chateau Grand Traverse 1985 Michigan Select Harvest Dry Riesling - Intriguing. Delicious complex scents of petrol and caramel; good white fruit framed by piercing acidity.

Chateau Grand Traverse 1999 Old Mission Peninsula Johannisberg Riesling Ice Wine - Pale brass color. Creme brulee and mandarin oranges. Intensely sweet, sufficient acidity. Delicious.

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