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Wine Tasting 101
Tuscany
By Oliver McCrum
Guest Host
Tuscany is dominated by one grape variety in the way that few other regions are, and that grape is Sangiovese. Don't let the fact that most American examples of this variety have been mediocre (at best) put you off. Although Sangiovese clones vary widely in quality, the right plants in the right "terroir" can make excellent wine. The variety seems to show terroir very clearly, as we see in the variety of wines produced in the different villages in the Chianti Classico, or in the difference between any of those wines and Brunello.
Note that less-than-opaque red color is natural in Sangiovese, as it is a thin-skinned variety. Some of the best Chianti Classicos are relatively pale in color. The variety does not take oak well, in my opinion.
The principal Tuscan wines are:
Chianti Classico, produced from Sangiovese and other grape varieties (a minimum of 80% Sangiovese with both native and International varieties) in an area between Florence and Siena. Style ranges from fairly fresh and cherry-ish to deeper, darker, more robust, particularly in the better Riserva wines. The different "communes" within the area produce wines that are distinctly different in style from each other. Overall quality is very high, although some tasters might prefer less influence from "international" varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, especially given that the clonal quality of Sangiovese has been greatly improved in the last decade (by the "Chianti 2000" project). Often a very good, versatile food wine.
Seven other geographically distinct Chianti appellations (such as Chianti Colli Senesi and Chianti Rufina) are produced from a larger area around the Classico zone. Overall the quality is not as high as the Classico, but some very good wines, especially in Rufina (Selvapiana, for example). Winemaking sometimes rather rustic.
Chianti DOC is the lowest level of Chianti, some good everyday examples.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is an under-appreciated wine made around the hill-town of Montepulciano, south of the Chianti. The formula is similar to that of Chianti but without the use of International varieties. The best wines approach Brunello in structure and depth of flavor but tend to be much less expensive.
Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy's most famous ageworthy red wines, and the best examples deserve that reputation and perhaps even their price-tags. A very different expression of Sangiovese (here called "Brunello") from that of the Chianti Classico, dark, broad-shouldered, meaty and sometimes excellent with some bottle age. If you haven't had a good Brunello with steak, you haven't lived.
IGT "Super Tuscan" wines are outside of the classic rules, often in newly established areas and often including exotic grape varieties. See the film Mondovino for a very personal view of this kind of winemaking; some very fine (and very expensive) wines, often lacking individuality.
Morellino di Scansano: Another Sangiovese (from near Grosseto). Often quite modern in style; some very good wines, some rather innocuous.
Vernaccia di San Gimignano is the only traditional white appellation in Tuscany. When made in a clean, modern style (not oxidized, in other words) it can be delicious.
LINKS
The Chianti Classico consorzio:
A useful site for information about Italian wines (also contains links for all of these appellations):
To participate in Wine Tasting 101, you're invited to visit the forum, share your opinions on any wine from Tuscany, ask questions and participate in online conversations on the subject. Oliver McCrum will be on hand all month to provide his special expertise, as will other regular WT101 participants and advisers. If you would like to compare notes with other wine lovers on specific "benchmark" wines, you're invited to taste and comment on the current vintages of three wines that we've selected as good, typical examples of their style. Feel free to post your comments in WT101 or the Wine Lovers' Discussion Group, or preferably on both forums.
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