WTN: 2000 Château Bouscassé Madiran (AOC)

[Paul B.]

Madiran is one of my all-time favourite reds and my favourite region for French reds. Opened this one to enjoy alongside the herbed leg of lamb roast that I prepared for supper.

13.5% alc. Very dark, saturated garnet with a ruby-black hue; only partially translucent. Deep and brooding appearance with slow, deliberate legs that drop ponderously with every swirl. Reticent medicinal-black-cherries, licorice, raw meat and violets on the nose. Big, prickly acidity coupled with fierce tannins and tons of grip. The Vintages write-up wasn't kidding to indicate that this was a wine to lay down (generally I buy the ones that are supposed to be laid down as an indicator of gutsiness; I rarely age these beauties). Fierce and grippy with a very slight hint of bitterness, this is a truly superb red. Fine-quality oak makes itself known only between the mid- and aft-palate; there is no overt woodiness to the nose. Fantastically - beautifully, properly - dry; drying, grippy tannins on the finish.

If you like to give tannic reds some time to evolve, you could set this wine aside at least a decade and you'd likely find a smoother, more velvety red with plenty of integration. I love its youthful grittiness. This was $18.95 at Vintages.

[Bob Parsons Alberta]

Now you`re talking Paul B!! I recently tasted the `01 at a local wine store. Great wine and there is a reserve too!

[Otto]

Thanks! I'm going to say again what I say about many things (Alsace included): Madiran rocks!

But I disagree when you say "If you like to give tannic reds some time to evolve, you could set this wine aside at least a decade and you'd likely find a smoother, more velvety red with plenty of integration. I love its youthful grittiness." This just doesn't seem to happen with Madirans. Granted, I have rather small experience with older examples and nothing older than 1990 but 10 years doesn't really soften these. They don't (at least in 15 years with a good producer) lose that lovely grittiness. Granted the tannins do soften a bit - not much, mind you, but the wine as a whole does not. Have you tried an aged Bouscassé like a 1991? They're great now and not soft. You'd like them, I think.

Otto

[Paul B.]

and there is a reserve too!

Interesting, Bob ... I wonder if it's even gutsier, or whether it has more oak?

[Paul B.]

Have you tried an aged Bouscassé like a 1991? They're great now and not soft. You'd like them, I think.

Haven't seen any older ones, Otto. Personally I enjoyed this one a great deal and for a mere $19 it's a great wine to lay down - if not for the expectation of it softening, then for its near-indestructability alone! Madiran gives us great ageworthiness at a fraction of the price of Bordeaux, which is where I used to think one had to look for fierce tannins.

[Jeff in Halifax]

Just picked up a couple bottles of Montus in Montreal last week. The 2001. Now maybe I will be able to drink it by 2020?

[Bob Parsons Alberta]

Hey Jeff, how are things in Halifax!! Had some pretty good snow storms this winter eh.

[Jeff in Halifax]

No snow to speak of. Snowmobilers all bummed, trading in on ATV's. Some golf courses stayed open all year round.

The grape growers are rubbing their hand together with all the vinifera survival, particularly the Pinot Noir in the Lahave Valley Sub-Appellation. Chardonnay as well on Blomidon. This means, of course, that the hybrids will be resplendant with fruit, as long as we get half a summer.

I think the rest of the Valley golf courses open this weekend, weather permitting. Spring rain at the moment.

Climate change means we'll be the new Oregon soon. (right latitude, just need the degree days in winter)

[Bill Spohn]

Granted the tannins do soften a bit - not much, mind you, but the wine as a whole does not. Have you tried an aged Bouscassé like a 1991? They're great now and not soft. You'd like them, I think.

I have found that even modest Madirans like Bromont's Meinjarre benefit from a decade or so - the 1994s are slightly softer now (you are right about the tannins changing very slowly) but you get some much more interesting secondary characteristics - some complexity as a result of aging.

[Otto]

Just picked up a couple bottles of Montus in Montreal last week. The 2001. Now maybe I will be able to drink it by 2020?

I've actually just tried the 2001 Montus. I was devastated that it has become slightly spoofulated. It is approachable - nay, even enjoyable if not afraid of massive amounts of extract - now. It will last no problem but if you have a couple try one now. The huge alcohol (14,5% IIRC) did bother me, though.

[Bill Spohn]

The huge alcohol (14,5% IIRC) did bother me, though.

Huge?
I'll show you huge......

14.5% isn't what I'd consider out of the norm even for Californian reds and regular Southern French fare. Lots of them are hitting 15%+, and I don't just mean wines like Amarone. I've got Zins above 16%.

[Rahsaan]

[Huge?
I'll show you huge......

I assume you've seen Otto's post on freshness in wine?

[Diane (Long Island)]

I have a few bottles of the 2000 Bouscasse VV and I am now tempted to open one when I defrost some leftover pot roast....hopefully, soon.
Nice tasting note, Paul.