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WTN /MoCool: Saturday picnic report (edited, revised, with photos)

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WTN /MoCool: Saturday picnic report (edited, revised, with photos)

by Robin Garr » Sat Aug 26, 2006 11:10 pm

<table border="0" align="center" width="500"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/mocool/tent06.jpg" border="1" align="left"></td></tr><tr><td>Dinner's over, darkness falls, and the tasting revelry continues into the night.</td></tr></table>

MoCool XVI: Saturday picnic

<table border="0" align="left" width="355"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/mocool/bobh06.jpg" border="1" align="left"></td></tr><tr><td>Bob H. pours for Errol Kovich and Geo T.</td></tr></table>The minor deities who seem to watch over MoCool came through again, and defying the forecast threat of severe thunderstorms and high winds, delivered a reasonably fine last-summer afternoon with mixed sunshine and clouds, humidity and mosquitoes. Hey, it's August in Michigan! No one minded, much, and the usual event went forward with a good crowd of 100 wine enthusiasts or so, all bearing generous selections of excellent wines from their cellars and wine racks for sharing.

The "Sweet, Sixteen and Bubbly" theme seemed to inspire folks, who dug deep into their collections for some truly amazing wines. By most estimates, there must have been close to 200 wines poured. I managed to get around to about one-quarter of them, sampling most of the Bubbly category and a random share of the "Sixteens" (1990s) before pocketing my PDA and indulging in just a taste or two of Ports at the "Sweet" table.

My notes follow, but first, it would be wrong to fail to take public note of the massive effort by the generous group of volunteers who knock themselves out every hear to make this non-profit, non-commercial venture happen. Many thanks to all the MoCool organizers and volunteers. You <i>are</I> appreciated.

My tasting started with an off-topic tasting trio set up for the volunteers who helped set up the tents and tables at the picnic venue, a pretty lakefront grove west of Ann Arbor:

<B>Allegrini 1997 Palazzo della Torre Veronese</B> - Dried cherries and cinnamon, nice. Juicy fruit and fresh acidity in balance, easy pick as best of the three.

<B>Allegrini 1999 Palazzo della Torre Veronese</B> - Darker than 1997. Black fruit, chocolate and licorice. Intense, tart acid, drying tannins, good potential but still young and immature.

<B>Allegrini 2001 Palazzo della Torre Veronese</B> - Ruby. Mouth-filling, sweet-tart. Doesn't seem well-balanced, and frankly doesn't seem likely to improve with aging; most tasters read it as an unfortunate shift by Allegrini toward a more "international" style.

Then, another off-topic wine left over from a tasting the previous nitght:

<B>Vérité 1999 La Muse Sonoma County red wine</B> - Cabernet Sauvignon dominates rather herbaceous red fruit, oak, a load of tannin. Not a favorite for me.

And finally, on to the theme wines with a quick taste of a 1990 to set the scene:

<B>Ch. Lafon-Rochet 1990 Saint-Estephe</B> - Clear garnet. Currants, cocoa, maybe a whiff of volatile acidity. Tart, tannic, <i>still</i> needs time.

And a fairly thorough trip past the "Bubbly" table, where I tried to undertake a comprehensive tasting of as many of the sparklers as possible. A number of contributors (including me) had come up with 1990 Champagnes to satisfy <i>two</i> of the three themes, although - perhaps luckily - nobody came up with a single wine that was sixteen, bubbly <i>and</i> sweet.

<B>Pol Roger 1990 Brut Rosé</B> - Pretty, pale salmon. Truffly, tart and dry. Holding up well, perhaps the best bubbly on the table for me.

<B>Pol Roger 1990 Brut</B> - I brought this one (a recent purchase) and was glad I did. Gold. Truffles, mushrooms, apples and honey. Creamy, rich, full-bodied. Fine.

<B>Guy Larmandier 1998 Champagne Cramant</B> - Rich, leesy, a style I like.

<B>Trouillard 1990 Cuvée du Fondateur</B> - Pale gold, not highly carbonated. Lovely delicate lemon scent.

<B>Lenoble 1996 Champagne Blanc de Blancs</B> - Appley, yeasty, fizzy.

<B>Champagne Delamotte 1990 Blanc de Blancs</B> - Clear light gold. Some oxidation, nuts and apples, but very much alive.

<B>L. Mawby Leelanau Peninsula "Sex" Brut</B> - Light gold. Apples, yeasty, tart.

<B>Veuve-Cliquot-Ponsardin NV Brut</B> - Light, tart apples. Okay bubbly, but doesn't diminish my prejudice that this house hasn't been living up to expectations in its basic cuvée.

<B>Mumm 1990</B> - Bright gold. Rich, truffles and lemons, very fine.

<B>De Faveri Extra Dry Prosecco</B> - Pale pink, a simple, refreshing quaffer.

<table border="0" align="right" width="355"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/mocool/mikejoel06.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr><tr><td>It's getting late, but Mike Conner and Joel Goldberg continue analyzing 1990s at the French table.</td></tr></table>Finally it was time to get serious about the "Sweet Sixteen" (1990s) tables, which were divided geographically, with much (but certainly not all) of the action around the United States and France. As noted, the generous outpouring was remarkable, and I indulged in only a fraction of all the wines available, but it was still an amazing wine experience.

<B>Chateau la Roque 1990 "Cupa Numismae" Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint Loup</B> - Dark ruby. Red fruit. Slight oxidation, losing its fruit, still alive but past peak. This excellent QPR red from Kermit Lynch, a blend of 60% Syran and 40% Mourvèdre, was a "cellar orphan" from my wine racks, the last of a case purchased in the early '90s and mostly consumed before 1999. It's a good table wine and was a great value at its original under-$10 price tag, but I had no expectations for it and was frankly surprised that it was still drinkable.

<B>Benziger 1990 Sonoma Mountain Red Table Wine</B> - Garnet. Herbaceous cassis. Not a favorite.

<B>Albert Morot 1990 Beaune-Marconetts 1er Cru</B> - Pale ruby. Ethereal, delicate mineral iron-rust scent; sweet red-fruit flavor. Wonderful, one of the most intriguing older Burgs of the day for me.

<B>Santa Rita - Casa Real 1990 Maipo Valley Cabernet Sauvignon</B> - Rich Cabernet, big and balanced. Cassis and chocolate, acid and substantial tannins. Offers strong testimony against the charge that Chilean reds don't stand up to age, an outstanding wine.

<B>1990 Cos d'Estournel</B> - Mature red fruit, a hint of barnyard, excellent mature Bordeaux.

<B>Il Latini 1990 Vino da Tavola di Toscana</B> - Cherries and dark toast. Still very tannic, raising the question whether the fruit can last until the tannins resolve.

<B>Bernard Latour 1990 Domaine de l'Espagouette Cotes du Rhone</B> - Very barnyardy, earthy, high acid. Fine if you like the "challenging" old-Rhone character that's redolent of the chicken coop.

<B>Ch. La Louviere 1990 Pessac-Leognan</B> - Red fruit and leather, top of its form.

<B>Ch. Larose-Trintaudon 1990 Haut-Medoc</B> - Funky barnyard and leather, but good sweet old-red fruit too, holding up better than you might expect of a relatively low-end Bordeaux.

<B>Les Hauts de Montmirail 1990 Gigondas</B> - Sweet, funky, old but very much alive.

<B>Pahlmeyer 1990 Caldwell Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon</B> - Concentrated. Oddly, it's both a little oxidized and still immature.

<B>1990 Chateau de Pommard</B> - Light ruby. Cherries, tart and tannic, still youthful.

<B>Forman 1990 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon</B> - Cassis and eucalyptus, classic Napa Cab. Very nice.

<B>Shafer 1990 Hillside Select Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon</B> - Beautiful balance and structure, a great Napa Cabernet. Despite my Europhile inclinations, I'd match this against most of the French '90s.

<B>Ridge 1990 Lytton Springs Zinfandel</B> - Red fruit and leather, claret-like, holding up very well.

<B>Chateau LaGrange 1990 Saint-Julien</B> - Cassis, herbal notes, hints of anise and white pepper. In a wine-geek experiment, two bottles are compared, one with five hours' breathing, the other just uncorked. The "breathed" wine may be a bit softer and more complex, but perhaps surprisingly, there's really not much perceptible difference.

<B>Ch. Lafite-Rothschild 1990 Pauillac</B> - Amazing. A burst of cassis right out of the glass, beautiful structure and balance. Oh, yeah!

<table border="0" align="right" width="355"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/mocool/music06.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr><tr><td>With this wine, who needs entertainment? Still, Geo T.'s harmonica riffs win approval from those who stopped to listen. He's flanked on "stage" by John Wolf (left) and Dave "Guido" Guimond.</td></tr></table>These old reds all went well with Chef Alan Kerr's grilled beef, although there's some truth in the argument that great mature reds deserve to be contemplated on their own, away from the distractions of food:

<B>Mommessin 1990 Clos de Tart</B> - Perfumed, intense, splendid with the steak.

<B>A. Clape 1990 Cornas</B> - Pure essence of Syrah, still young. I arrive just as the dregs are being poured and get about a 1/4-ounce taste that just films the bottom of my glass, but I love it.

<B>Joseph Matrot 1990 Volnay-Santenots</B> - Barnyard and a touch of Sherry, aromas seem almost past it, but still delicious sweet red fruit on the palate.

<B>Domaine Pierre Ponnelle 1990 Clos de Vougeot</B> - Tart red fruit, intense.

<B>Jaboulet-Vercherre 1990 Beaune Clos de l'Ecu</B> - Barnyard, leather and sweet red fruit.

<B>E. Guigal 1990 Hermitage</B> - Earthy plums, black olives, anise and leather. Peppery, smooth, very nice.

<B>Louis Jadot 1990 Corton-Pougets Grand Cru</B> - Bit o' leather, bit o' barnyard, but mostly dark Pinot fruit. Still young.

A couple of off-theme wines tasted during the afternoon:

<B>Edmunds St. John 1999 El Dorado County "Wylie-Fenaughty Syrah</B> - Dark purple. Lovely, intense plums and cherries; subtle pepper, mouth-watering acidity. World-class Syrah.

<B>Wyncroft 2002 Lake Michigan Shore Madron Lake Riesling</B> - Light gold. Apples, pine and petrol; very dry, excellent Riesling, demonstrates that Michigan Riesling, at least, can stand comparison to the world's top wines.

And finally, a brief stop at the "Sweet" table for a quick taste of a couple of Ports:

<B>Pocas Porto Seguro 1990 Vintage Port</B> - Stone fruit and anise, acidic and very sweet. Another of my contributions, I had double-decanted it at home to remove the sediment, then re-corked, spun the capsule back on, and transported it in my checked luggage with fingers crossed that it wouldn't leak or attract unwanted attention from TSA ...

<B>Graham's Malvedos Centenary 1990 Vintage Port</B> - Deep fruit, searing tannins; great potential, still very young. Same year as my Pocas, but it's Port on a completely different level.
Last edited by Robin Garr on Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by James Roscoe » Sat Aug 26, 2006 11:14 pm

Holy cow, Batman! Was there more? That is an amazing line-up. I may now go to sleep fully punished for not being there. Great notes on short notice.
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Robin Garr » Sat Aug 26, 2006 11:17 pm

James Roscoe wrote:Holy cow, Batman! Was there more?


Oh, yeah! That MIGHT have been half, but probably less. I expect there were well over 100 bottles there, and I wasn't even cherry-picking ... I missed quite a few great Bordeaux and Burgs especially, and I barely even touched the sweet-wine department. I took a little nip of a couple of Ports (I had brought the Porto Seguro), but since I don't have much of a sweet tooth, I stayed away from that department so others who enjoy them more could have my share.
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Remo Perriello » Sun Aug 27, 2006 1:11 am

Wow! Thanks for sharing Robin. Maybe I will be able to take a few days off next year and experience.

And do you have a keyboard for you palm or you scripting? You must be a whiz at it. I gotta bring my Dell handheld to my next tasting. Why haven't I been doing that before... LOL... I can barely read my scribble when I write in my tasting books. I hope to be half as descritive as you are on your notes... Fantanstic!
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by OW Holmes » Sun Aug 27, 2006 8:45 am

I didn't keep track either, but i am guessing that is perhaps a quarter or less of the wines tasted. Totally impossible to pick a wine of the night, or even a dozen. I loved the bordeaux table, particularly 90 lynch bages, lafite, cos, and phelan segur. The table of stickies was wonderful, with loads of ice wine, and one old Loire that blew everybody away. I should have counted. Oh well, we go back this morning for cleanup, so I will take a tally, though I suspect some bottles have been taken away as remembrances.
-OW
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Dave Guimond » Sun Aug 27, 2006 4:42 pm

Jay Baldwin usually does a bottle count. My guess is 250 bottles. I probably tasted about 100. Of those I had, the ones that stand out:
90 Mommessin Clos de Tart
90 Jadot Griotte-Chambertin
90 Jadot Corton Pougets
90 Pierre Andre Corton Pougets
90 Cos d'Estournel
90 Phelan Segur
90 Baumard Quarts de Chaume
90 Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Frederick Emile
90 Pol Roger Brut Rose Champagne
90 Pol Roger Brut Champagne
Some unknown berenauslese that John Trombley was walking around with

Notably, I missed the 90 Lafite, 90 Lynch Bages, 90 Bois de Boursan, 90 Pegau, 90 Mondavi Reserve and everything on the dessert wine table except the 86 Rayne de Vigneau

I'm sure that I'm forgetting to mention dozens of great wines that in a more subdued setting would have made a more lasting impression...

Thanks to everyone that dug deep into their cellars to share the joy of wine with fellow enthusiasts.

---Dave
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Bob Ross » Sun Aug 27, 2006 5:23 pm

Great notes as always, Robin. Thanks.
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by OW Holmes » Sun Aug 27, 2006 7:27 pm

Thanks again to all the MoCOOL organizers. It was just fabulous. I was initially a bit leery about the theme, but it worked great with happy winos congregating around the bubbly table for the first hour or so, gradually drifting to the other tables with the 16 year olds, and after the absolutely incredible meal by Chef Alan, turning to the sweet stuff. As always, when a a teenaged Lafite, or Cos, or Pegau, or Pol Roger, or one of Guido's wonderful burgundies was opened, there was a hatch of glasses buzzing around the pourer.
I took my daughter to her first MoCOOL, and she loved it. Her favorites were mostly from the California table (Montelena, Silver Oak, etc.) and from the stickies table (Ice wines, a couple of old Loire chenin blancs) and Tromley's ports.
I suspect Guido is about right on the estimate. There weren't quite that many during cleanup this morning, but we know of a few souvineers taken home, and I didn't see any remains from the Tromley table.
What a happy time. Great food, great wine, but most important - great company. Thanks again.
Last edited by OW Holmes on Mon Aug 28, 2006 5:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-OW
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by James Roscoe » Sun Aug 27, 2006 7:40 pm

John Trombley was there?!!! I miss him. Now I'm really kicking myself.
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sun Aug 27, 2006 7:51 pm

Any news on Paul B at the picnic!??
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by James Roscoe » Sun Aug 27, 2006 7:56 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Any news on Paul B at the picnic!??


Bob,
I suspect those of us who didn't go, but should have gone, will have to wait until tomorrow to get the juicy stuff. I assume Paul B. was dancing on the tables with Bob H. until we hear further proof to the contrary.
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Dave Guimond » Sun Aug 27, 2006 8:12 pm

John Trombley showed up with his usual 20 or so bottles...almost made me feel bad that I only brought 6. I don't recall seeing Paul B at the picnic. But I spent half the evening outside the wine tent with other duties. I gave up taking notes at the MoCool picnic when I became an organizer a few years ago (you miss too many wines - they go quickly).
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Robin Garr » Sun Aug 27, 2006 8:40 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Any news on Paul B at the picnic!??


He didn't show, Bob. No idea what was up with that, but I assume he'll check in eventually with a 'splanation. Several people had brought non-conforming wines for him to try. :(
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Paul B. » Sun Aug 27, 2006 9:03 pm

Robin Garr wrote:He didn't show, Bob. No idea what was up with that, but I assume he'll check in eventually with a 'splanation. Several people had brought non-conforming wines for him to try. :(


Hi guys ... and thanks for asking!

Very sadly, I had to miss MoCool this year because my mother suddenly became ill and I needed to be around to assist her. I didn't feel right making the 450 km trip just at the time when she was most in need, and so it didn't take me long to make the necessary decision that despite having signed up for the picnic and a-rarin' to go, it was best that I stay.

I was looking forward to seeing the usual gang, as it's an event that I try to make every year. Oh well ... hopefully some other local offlines will take place between now and next year and then there'll be a chance to at least make up for it in part!
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by David Lole » Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:42 am

Sorry to hear your news, Paul.

My best wishes to your mother, hoping for a speedy recovery.

I just might have to get myself to one of these MoCool's - one day!
Cheers,

David
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Aug 28, 2006 1:15 am

Yup, sorry to hear the news Paul. I am quite sure you were missed at the picnic.
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by Howie Hart » Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:27 am

Paul, we all missed you and hope all is well with your Mom.

I would like to add my name to the list of those offering "Thanks" to the organizers and those who worked so hard at pulling this all together, especially Joel & Sally (the hospitality on Friday evening is deeply appreciated), Guido and Alan, who worked tirelessly preparing all that wonderful food (I've never had salmon so good - fresh, delicate flavor - and the bacon wrapped oysters - and the smoked prime rib - and.....and....). In addition to the familiar WLDGers I've met before and a few others I met at MOCOOL 2 years ago, I got to meet many wine lovers and shared a wonderful weekend of wine and food comradrie (sp?). And thanks to all of you who so graciously shared the treasures of their cellars. This past weekend will be lingering in my memory for a long time.

BTW - Mystery Wine – Deep blueish-red color. Smells kind of like Foch. Sweet, but with enough acid for balance. Good finish with berry flavors. This was a wine made by a friend, John Czyrny, from wild grapes he found growing on an island in the Niagara River while perch fishing.
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Re: WTN /MoCool: Saturday picnic report (edited, revised, with photos)

by Mark Lipton » Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:05 pm

Robin Garr wrote:<B>Bernard Latour 1990 Domaine de l'Espagouette Cotes du Rhone</B> - Very barnyardy, earthy, high acid. Fine if you like the "challenging" old-Rhone character that's redolent of the chicken coop.


Thanks for the detailed notes, Robin. I was struck by this one, though. I love Dom. de l'Espigouette's CdR VV (note small spelling error) -- I assume that this was the VV bottling with the gold label (or didn't they do that in '90?)? -- but I would never dream of hanging onto one for this long. Frankly, as I'm sure that you'll agree, very few CdR's are intended for a 16-year-long development. I've finished my '98s and am well into my '99s and '00s. They are still barnyardy with decent (high?) acid, but are almost certainly fruitier than what you got at MoCoOL.

Mark Lipton
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Re: WTN /MoCool: Saturday picnic report (edited, revised, with photos)

by Robin Garr » Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:10 pm

Mark Lipton wrote:I love Dom. de l'Espigouette's CdR VV (note small spelling error) -- I assume that this was the VV bottling with the gold label (or didn't they do that in '90?)? -- but I would never dream of hanging onto one for this long. Frankly, as I'm sure that you'll agree, very few CdR's are intended for a 16-year-long development. I've finished my '98s and am well into my '99s and '00s. They are still barnyardy with decent (high?) acid, but are almost certainly fruitier than what you got at MoCoOL.


Thanks for the note, Mark, and for the spelling error - I'll fix that in the online archive.

I think this one had the gold label - frankly, there were so many wines, it's hard to remember, but I'm pretty sure it did. If I recall correctly, it was brought by Dick Scheer of Village Corner wines in Ann Arbor, and I imagine that, as with my '90 Cupa Numismae - he brought it along more as a lark than as a serious entry in the greatness sweepstakes.
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Re: WTN /MoCool: Saturday picnic report (edited, revised, with photos)

by Paulo » Mon Aug 28, 2006 3:38 pm

Great report, Robin!

Argh! Next year I have to go to MoCool somehow! This year I was too burnt out after being in Italy for 3 weeks and after the launch of our program in Umbria.

Hope you guys had a great time!

I am so devastated that Allegrini has gone international on us!
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Re: WTN /MoCool: Saturday picnic report (edited, revised, with photos)

by Eric Ifune » Mon Aug 28, 2006 9:43 pm

I'm sorry I couldn't make it this year. It sounds like something right up my alley! Hopefully I'll be able to make it next year.
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by JuliaB » Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:24 pm

Adding my $.02 to the other accolades...we owe the organizers a heartfelt thank you for the work they put into making this truly the wine event of the year for many of us. It was fantastic. Also, I need to mention that Alan Kerr is a god in the kitchen. The food alone is worth the price of admission...the great wine and convivial gathering are just icing on the cake!

Thank you all for a fabulous weekend!
See you next year!
JuliaB
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Re: Wyncroft 2002 Lake Michigan Shore Madron Lake Riesling

by geo t. » Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:49 am

Great report, Robin, on a most memorable event. You got to more wines than I did, but then, I spent more time in the lake than you, so as far as I'm concerned, we're even!

:P

As for the Wyncroft 2002 Lake Michigan Shore Madron Lake Riesling, everyone for whom I poured a taste of this wine quite seemed to have enjoyed it, and it's only going to get better, based on other and earlier Rieslings we've tasted from Jim and Rae Lee Lester, the people who are responsible for this and other great Lake Michigan Shore whites AND reds. I believe that they might be induced into doing a Brian Loring and pouring a cross section of their wines at next year's festivities, and it would be most appropriate, given the setting. All of their wines are world class and deserve this kind of stage to show what they have to offer. They are located in a unique setting of microclimates that continue to show that Michigan can indeed produce wines of excellent quality. Thanks for including your notes on this wine in your report.

Very best regards,

geo
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Re: Some MoCool picnic wines - raw, unedited notes

by geo t. » Tue Aug 29, 2006 1:05 am

JuliaB wrote:Adding my $.02 to the other accolades...we owe the organizers a heartfelt thank you for the work they put into making this truly the wine event of the year for many of us. It was fantastic. Also, I need to mention that Alan Kerr is a god in the kitchen. The food alone is worth the price of admission...the great wine and convivial gathering are just icing on the cake!

Thank you all for a fabulous weekend!
See you next year!
JuliaB


Ditto big time!

:!: :?: :idea: :arrow: 8)
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