Every once in a while I engage in an experiment. One that has failed miserably is the aging of some mid-late '90s Gallo of Sonoma Single Vineyard Cabs. In the last year or two I have opened multiple bottles of the '97 Barelli and Frei Cabs to universal disgust.
Last night it was the '97 Gallo of Sonoma Frei Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon that was fatally oxidized (orange at the rim), and smelling/tasting of nothing so much as rotting leaves and stewed fruit. Since this has been pretty universal I chalk it up to wine that couldn't age, but perhaps it was cooked somewhere. I don't know.
So I then opened the 2001 Chateaux Kirwan (Margaux). I was immediately assaulted by a huge dose of dar roast coffee. Initially dismayed I let the glass sit for an hour. Returning to it the coffee has toned down, and red and black cherry emerged with good minerality and still some very toasted oak on the finish. There's a lot of fruit here, but I don't know if it will ever totally integrate the oak. I will leave my other bottles for several years and hope.
