<table border="0" align="right" width="115"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/hirs0403.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr></table>Hirsch 2004 "Veltliner #1" Kamptal Grüner Veltliner ($10)
This wine's clear golden color is transparent and very pale, typical of GV, and its white-fruit and green-pea aromas are similarly characteristic of the grape. Crisp and citric, dry and tart, it's a bit on the simple side, but mouth-watering and food-friendly, with an attractive touch of "rainwater" minerality developing as the wine warms in the glass. (The producer numbers this screw-capped bottling sequentially, by the way; the 2004 vintage is marketed in Europe as "Veltliner #3," but the U.S. label retains "#1" for all vintages.) U.S. importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; a Terry Theise Estate Selection. (April 3, 2006)
<B>FOOD MATCH:</b> One of the most versatile and food-friendly of wines, GV pairs well with veal or pork, poultry and fish, and it's developing a reputation as an exceptional match with Asian fare. It passed that test well with a simple "fusion" dish that added a touch of Southeast Asian spice to light veal <I>polpettone in brodo</I>.
<B>VALUE:</B> Although more dollars might bring more lean and structured and perhaps more complex GV, it's going to be hard to find a better white wine than this in the $10 range.
<B>WHEN TO DRINK:</B> Drink it now or hold it for 5 to 10 years under good cellar conditions: Another aspect of GV's appeal is that you can drink it young or drink it old with satisfaction.
<B>WEB LINK:</B> The Hirsch Website
is colorful and content-rich, available in German and English. (The home page comes up in German; click the "English" link in the right-hand column to summon the alternate site.)
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