WTN /WineAdvisor/Wine Focus - Grüner Veltliner

[Robin Garr]

Wine Focus - Grüner Veltliner

Lovers of opulent, fat and happy "fruit bombs" may wish to look elsewhere, but for those who fancy sharp-edged, minerally white wines, Austria's signature Grüner Veltliner grape ranks right up there with Muscadet from the Loire and Mosel Riesling for its austere transparency, with extra credit for being just plain refreshing.

Don't let the unfamiliar name throw you: Even if you don't speak German, you can skip the umlaut on the first syllable and call it "Green-er Felt-leen-er" and everyone will know what you're talking about.

Or call it "GV" for short, as the grape's growing band of fanciers do. Indeed, a generation after an unfortunate adulteration scandal rocked the Austrian wine industry during the 1980s, GV is leading a resurgence in Austrian wine that has won a small but growing and very enthusiastic "cult" following.

Grüner Veltliner deserves that attention, not only because of its distinctive character but thanks to its easy food-friendliness. It makes a fine match with seafood and fish, stands up to poultry and pork, and, increasingly, is becoming a go-to wine for Southeast Asian fare, particularly Vietnamese and "fusion" Pacific Rim cuisine. And to put the icing on the cake, with the possible exception of a few of the most sought-after labels, GV remains delightfully affordable.

GV was such a popular topic in our online forums' "Wine Focus" feature last spring at this time that we thought we'd herald the arrival of warmer weather by doing an encore again this month. Throughout May, we invite you to share your tasting notes, talk about the wine and ask questions in the Wine Focus section of the WineLovers Discussion Group,
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewforum.php?f=18

<table border="0" align="right" width="170"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/wach0506.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr></table>Domäne Wachau 2004 Terrassen Federspiel Grüner Veltliner ($9.99)

This is a transparent straw-color wine with a simple and fresh citric limey scent that invites a taste. I find tart limes on the palate, too, along with an appealing, subtle "rainwater over rocks" minerality. On the simple side, perhaps, but clean, fresh acidity makes it a fine food wine with a long, refreshing finish. It makes a good match in a sometimes difficult pairing, fresh asparagus, simply steamed with salted Normandy butter. U.S. importer: Vin Divino Ltd., Chicago. (May 6, 2007)
Find it on Wine-Searcher.com:
[url=http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Domane%2bWachau%2bGruner/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP"]http://www.wine-searcher.com/
find/Domane%2bWachau%2bGruner/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP[/url]

<table border="0" align="left" width="170"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/frei0504.jpg" border="1" align="left"></td></tr></table>Freie Weingärtner Wachau 2004 Grüner Veltliner ($11.99)

Described as "Qualitätswein Trocken" ("dry wine of quality") on the back label, it's a clear, pale straw color with a light greenish hue. The aromas start with limey citrus, but it's overshadowed by a strongly earthy element of damp wool or dried green peas or lentils ("lentil" is a common descriptor in GV, though not one I often choose). Lime, white pepper and stony "rainwater" come together on the palate a bit more attractively than in the somewhat awkward nose, with tart structural acidity lingering in a long finish. It made a fine match with sauteed fresh halibut with Japanese spice. U.S. importer: Vin Divino Ltd., Chicago. (May 4, 2007)
Find it on Wine-Searcher.com:
[url=http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Freie%2bWeingartner%2bGruner/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP"]http://www.wine-searcher.com/
find/Freie%2bWeingartner%2bGruner/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP[/url]

<table border="0" align="right" width="170"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/loim0430.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr></table>Loimer 2004 Grüner Veltliner "dry" ($9.99/1 liter)

Transparent straw color. Fresh citrus and a whiff of characteristic Grüner "green pea" on the nose. Intense limey citrus and subtle white pepper in the mouth. Snappy acidity adds structure, especially in the finish. Demonstrating GV's affinity for Asian-accented fare, it was a fine match with the "tofu steaks" smothered with fresh spinach sauteed with bacon, soy and lime featured in last week's <I>30 Second Wine Advisor FoodLetter</I>. Great value for less than $10 in the oversize liter bottle. U.S. importer: Vin diVino Ltd., Chicago. (April 30, 2007)
Find it on Wine-Searcher.com:
[url=http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Loimer%2bGruner/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP"]http://www.wine-searcher.com/
find/Loimer%2bGruner/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP[/url]

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[James Dietz]

The other `G' wine.. .. I love these wines, and love that they still are under the radar of many wine drinkers, much like Albariño.

[Paulo in Philly]

The other `G' wine.. .. I love these wines, and love that they still are under the radar of many wine drinkers, much like Albariñio.

...and they love you back, Jim!

I will be having the following with dinner tonight:

2004 Loimer Kaeferberg GV - Kamptal - $22.99 plus 7% tax

[James Roscoe]

The other `G' wine.. .. I love these wines, and love that they still are under the radar of many wine drinkers, much like Albariñio.

...and they love you back, Jim!

I will be having the following with dinner tonight:

2004 Loimer Kaeferberg GV - Kamptal - $22.99 plus 7% tax

That's an expensive GV! Enjoy!!

How did Falstaff go?

[David M. Bueker]

I will be having the following with dinner tonight:

2004 Loimer Kaeferberg GV - Kamptal - $22.99 plus 7% tax

That's an expensive GV![/quote]

No, it's not. Believe me that's barely the beginning. May I introduce you to Knoll, Hirtzberger or Pichler?

[Paulo in Philly]

I will be having the following with dinner tonight:

2004 Loimer Kaeferberg GV - Kamptal - $22.99 plus 7% tax

That's an expensive GV!

No, it's not. Believe me that's barely the beginning. May I introduce you to Knoll, Hirtzberger or Pichler?[/quote]

David,

What price range do these wines you mentioned go for? The wine I had tonight was more refined than the 9.99 I had last week (see beginning of thread). While I enjoyed the lime and grapefruit rind notes in this wine tonight, there is still an aluminum can finish to it (maybe extremely mineral?). I don't get this with Italian whites that I normally have.

[James Dietz]

Paulo, did you remember to remove the foil from the bottle? Sometimes when I chug-a-lug from the bottle, the foil gives that finish..

Ok.. enuff silliness.. back to your regular programming.. and let David B. give you the skinny on what that might be...

[Paulo in Philly]

Paulo, did you remember to remove the foil from the bottle? Sometimes when I chug-a-lug from the bottle, the foil gives that finish..

Ok.. enuff silliness.. back to your regular programming.. and let David B. give you the skinny on what that might be...

Quiet there in the peanut gallery!!!!

Go back to your cigars!!!!

[Mark Lipton]

No, it's not. Believe me that's barely the beginning. May I introduce you to Knoll, Hirtzberger or Pichler?

Or Nigl or Nikolaihof... But of course, there's GV and then there's GV. I'd never pay more than $20 for a Federspiel regardless of producer. However, for a Smaragd from a top terroir like Alte Reben or Achleiten the sky's the limit.

Mark Lipton

[Dale Williams]

Doubt you'll ever have another FX Pichler Federspiel if $20 is your limit, barring dollar recovery.

Robin, so you had 2 2004 Domane Wachau wines, but one had the old (Freie Weingartener) name?

[Robin Garr]

Robin, so you had 2 2004 Domane Wachau wines, but one had the old (Freie Weingartener) name?

I was a little confused about that myself, Dale, but I think that's right. Different branding for different wines, I guess?

[David M. Bueker]

The changeover to the new name is still in progress. I have the details somewhere.

[Mark Lipton]

Doubt you'll ever have another FX Pichler Federspiel if $20 is your limit, barring dollar recovery.

I never said that I'd have complete freedom of choice. Note that I don't buy much DRC either

Robin, so you had 2 2004 Domane Wachau wines, but one had the old (Freie Weingartener) name?

I was wondering the same thing.

Mark Lipton